Window Blind Control

[Treetop]

Since not everyone who visits here, also skims the HS boards, I thought I would bring the topic on over.

There has been a bit of talk over at Homeseer lately about some really cheap IR window blind controllers.

Lowe's is currently selling some Power Ease units:

Master Set (includes remote) #112131 10004 for $15.98
Expansion Unit (no remote) #112216 10014 for $11.98

This units are discontinued, so some stores may already be sold out.

NOTE: These units only tilt the blinds open/close, it DOES NOT raise and/or lower them. They are battery operated and require no tools to install and the motor is audible when running, but is not bothersome (to me at least). Box states that they can "fit most 1/2", 1", and 2" Horizontal slat type aluminum, vinyl, wood or faux wood blinds."

I just set one up in my livingroom (window behind the couch, in a bay) and the USB-UIRT is able to control it perfectly using the front blaster. I just set my repeat value in the girder config. to 16 (instead of the default 4).

The unit's IR sensor can either be placed inside the unit itself, but it can also be removed as its on a 6 inch cord, if you have drapes or curtains.

The question I have, is do you think it would be possible to hook one of these up to a Power Flash Module so they could be controlled via x10? I have never used one of these modules, more less done any hardware modding, but just wanted to get your all take on this.

Treetop

Edit: One other thing I need to do (to the one in the bay window), is splice the cord to the IR sensor and add some more length. Any recommendations on types of wire? Or will any do (thats my guess)?

 

[smee]

I installed a couple of these last night. I had to make a minor modification in order to get them to fit my blinds. I needed to cut part of the case where it attaches to the blinds in order to clear the wand mechanism. I also can't completely replace the valence part of the blinds with the mechanism in place.

The mechanism is a little obtrusive if you don't have a large valence or curtains in front of your blinks. I don't, but I'm not that concerned.

The mechanism is made to attach to the blinds where the wand attaches - you need to remove the wand. It should also be possible to mount the box on the wall and attach it to the end of the wand if your wand is long enough.

I think just about any wire could be used to extend the sensor. By the way, I like the way the sensor has been made. It uses the same sensor whether it's in the box or external - you just open up the back and pull it out. Overall, the device seems to be pretty well designed. Even getting the batteries in and out has been set up pretty well - you can change them easily without removing the device from the blinds.

Here's a picture of my install:

 

[electron]

I really like the idea of doing this, but both my wife and I don't seen the benefit of this. In day time we have plenty of sunlight, so we don't have to open the shades, and at night we want them closed, I am just stunned that I can't figure out a use for this thing lol.

 

[Rupp]

Dan,
Give them a try they are great. I just got finished setting up my 6th set and I have never been so happy with a product as I am with these. They are very well built and very affordable. I have been attempting to automate out blinds since the day I started home automation and finally yes finally I have done it. My wife likes all of our blinds (2" white wood) open and closed at the same tilt level so the front of the house looks "nice". Well now it all a reality without waling around to all of the rooms and tilting blinds every day. Now to see how ling the batteries last.

There aught to be more uses for these as well but at the moment I'm drawing a blank.

 

[electron]

Too bad you can't power these using a solar cell, considering they are right in front of a window ... Would these work with vertical blinds which use the same 'rod' mechanism? Is there a limit switch in place so it won't keep trying to open them over and over? How reliable are the IR commands, will the same amount of commands always put them in the exact same position?

 

[Rupp]

Dan stated:

Is there a limit switch in place so it won't keep trying to open them over and over?

The way these work is when they reach the end of the "wands crank limit" they "slip" and click but not overly loud.


Dan stated:

How reliable are the IR commands, will the same amount of commands always put them in the exact same position?

I use several powermids to transfer the learned ir command from my Ocelot to the blinds. I then send 5 ir commands 2 seconds apart and it opens the blinds to the open position. So far the position is perfect after a couple of weeks of use.

 

[Treetop]

The Lowe's rightup the street has about 40 units (total - 20 of each). I'm going to grab some for people that are having a hard time finding them. If you would like some units, please reply in the HS thread above.

Treetop

 

[Micah]

I'll all rearing to go and pick up a bunch of these but what about blinds that are out of the way, like in a hall way or in a room where there's no computer or controller?

Any thoughts there?

Scatch that. I can't use 'em. My blinds are controlled with a string, not the stick.

 

[smee]

Electron:

I really like the idea of doing this, but both my wife and I don't seen the benefit of this. In day time we have plenty of sunlight, so we don't have to open the shades, and at night we want them closed, I am just stunned that I can't figure out a use for this thing lol.

You know, I don't really need these either. They just always seemed kind of "cool." Now that these are available for such a low price (about 1/3 of other inexpensive ones) it seemed to good to pass up. And, I have to admit that it's kind of cool just pointing the remote at them and opening/closing - even without the HA part or the link to HS.

Electron:

Would these work with vertical blinds which use the same 'rod' mechanism?

They probably would work find, as long as the wand turns freely. You may need to make some minor mounting changes. They are cheap enough that it's probably worth a try.

Micah:

I'll all rearing to go and pick up a bunch of these but what about blinds that are out of the way, like in a hall way or in a room where there's no computer or controller?

I believe Rupp is using PowerMids to distribute IR to his blinds. I use a wired Xantech system to distribute IR. I just connected an emitter to one of my blinds and it works fine.

 

[Treetop]

Electron:

I really like the idea of doing this, but both my wife and I don't seen the benefit of this. In day time we have plenty of sunlight, so we don't have to open the shades, and at night we want them closed, I am just stunned that I can't figure out a use for this thing lol.

You know, I don't really need these either. They just always seemed kind of "cool." Now that these are available for such a low price (about 1/3 of other inexpensive ones) it seemed to good to pass up. And, I have to admit that it's kind of cool just pointing the remote at them and opening/closing - even without the HA part or the link to HS.

I agree with all the above.."not needed, but cool and cheap". For me, the window I put one on always stayed closed as it was too difficult to reach (have to climb over the couch and stretch into a bay window, making sure not to knock any of the glass decorative items off a shelf)

 

[Micah]

Well I went and picked one of these up anyhow to see if I couldn't make it work.

for string blinds it boils down to the motor being too weak. So, of course, the next step was to take it apart.

Turns out these things use a little 6v motor with 4 gears to step up the torque.

So here's my plan, and I wanna hear what you guys think.

I want to remove the motor from the circuit that this came with and use the +/-6v to control a relay which will be hooked to a 24v motor.

Here's a circuit I came up with to control the motor and motor direction. The hurdle I ran into is that in order for the motor to turn Clockwise (CW) and Couterclockwise (CCW) I have to be able to reverse the + and - going to the motor. Hence the 4 relays. The top two relays control the motor going CW and the bottom two control CCW. In order to have the relays trigger at the correct times I'd place diodes between the control 6v and the relays. +6v would pass through the diodes attached to the top two relays and 2 more diodes would act as opens preventing the bottom two relays from activating. Switch the +6v to -6v and the opposite happens. The top two relays are inactive because of the open diodes but the bottom two are active.

So what do ya'll think? Is there an easier way to go about this or something I over looked?

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

I'm having a hard time with your schematic. Can you detail out the relay's and separate the coil and the contactors and show the swinger. For help refer to my second post HERE, where I show a DPDT relay and detail its coil and contacts.

 

[Micah]

yeah, that is a pretty bad drawing. I used to have a circuit diagram program but it's lost I think.

I'll give it a better shot a little later.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Nothing fancy, just spread your stuff out more and show the coils and contacts of each relay. Just hand draw it. If you prefer you can Email it to me at [email protected].

 

[GadgetBoy]

I have found that putting a small, 3/4 inch piece of wood between the blind's valence and the housing keeps the valence from hitting the crank from the weight of the unit.

I am hoping that if you purchased these you will understand what I am saying :huh: