Wire Duct in panels

[felixrosbergen]

Gents,

I've seen many puctures where people have wire duct with slots (i think they're called fingers) inside their ELK panels.

I have 2 questions:

- Whats the typical size used? 1", 1.5"?

- How do you mount this wire duct inside the panel. It looks like its moutned against the sidewall and towards the front of the panel (i.e. in front of the boards).

Do you just screw it from the inside of the panel towards the outside? For a surface mounted panel this would make some nasty protrusions ont he outside.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

 

[wuench]

Gents,

I've seen many puctures where people have wire duct with slots (i think they're called fingers) inside their ELK panels.

I have 2 questions:

- Whats the typical size used? 1", 1.5"?

- How do you mount this wire duct inside the panel. It looks like its moutned against the sidewall and towards the front of the panel (i.e. in front of the boards).

Do you just screw it from the inside of the panel towards the outside? For a surface mounted panel this would make some nasty protrusions ont he outside.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

The perimeter channels on mine are screwed in, but my panel is not surface mounted. For the horizontal channels, I just drilled holes in the channel and used the standard plastic clips used to mount the cards etc. So they are completely removable.

For the perimeter you could you bolts and nuts to attached them, or glue, or even maybe a good velcro if you don't want anything coming through a surface mount.

I use the 1.5x1.5 fingered, but I am considering moving up to 2"x1.5" in some of the horizontal where I have a lot of CAT5 or maybe doubling up on the 1.5". I have also used the 1"x1" in my smaller power panel.

T1-1515W-1 WIRE DUCT WHITE 1PCS 1.5 X 1.5 IN 2M WITH COVER

If you want to see pictures click on the link in my sig...

 

[felixrosbergen]

Maybe some really good double sided tape will do the trick.

I don't tink i'll go any bigger than 1.5 x 1.5. You keep them to the front right behind the front edge of the panel right?

Can you still get to the terminal on the cards befind those ducts?

 

[electron]

I do not think double sided tape is a good idea. I used short self tapping screws:

I used T1-1010W-1 WIRE DUCT WHITE 1PCS 1.0 X 1.0 IN 2M WITH COVER (AutomationDirect.com), and I would consider upgrading to 1"Wx1.5"H, but wouldn't exceed those dimensions.

 

[wuench]

You mount it all the way to the front edge. With 1.5" you can get all the cards behind it, but it is a little difficult getting at the pins to mount the card and the inputs/outputs on the edge of the card. But since Elk's connectors detatch, it's not too bad.

 

[felixrosbergen]

In my 42" Leviton can there's metal pieces that are raised from the sides of the panel that woudl prevent the wire duct from laying flat against it....

I don't know what these are for but suspect you can loop a ziptie or something through for a slopper wire management job. I suppose a dremel tool or the dril could take care of these things and remove them so that the wire duct lays flat...but i'd prefer not to cut into the panel too much..

For those with Leviton can...did you remove these raised metal pieces before mounting the wire duct?

Hopefully what i'm describing is somewhat clear...i can post a pic later if needed...

 

[electron]

I have these as well in my Channel Vision can, but since I only have the 1"x1", it fit in between that raised part and the edge of the can. You could also use a few screws with washers to add support where there is no raised section.

 

[felixrosbergen]

On the Leviton cans there's 13/16th" between the raised pieces closets to the front and the actual lip of the enclosure... I'm considering getting the 1x1.5 or the 1.5x1.5 and just cut little slot into the bottom of the wire duct to fall over these pieces.....an exacto knife should be able to cut a slot into that pretty easy......either that or cut the metal pieces out (which i would not be looking forward too).

 

[WayneW]

either that or cut the metal pieces out (which i would not be looking forward too).

or pound them flat? I am not sure what you are talking about, but some of the structured wiring stuff I saw was essentially just things "dented" into the can. so you could just pound them back where they came from.

 

[felixrosbergen]

Hi wayne...my stuff is already mounting in the can...so pounding around it will not be a great idea for me...

I'm actually thinking that if i cut the slots in the bottom of the wire duct the raised pieces may allow me to fasten to it somehow..preventing me from hacing to have screws stickout out the side of the panels (my panels are not recessed).

Any of you guys have some lenghts left to sell to me?

 

[Steve]

Those 'raised pieces' are there for you to use tie wraps/velcro/etc to attached a bundle of cable. They can be cut off, pushed in or worked around.

 

[felixrosbergen]

I have never had a 'Dremel' tool but think i may need to get one to cut out pieces of sheetrock around outlets and such...

Would a dremmel be able to cut these little pieces of metal?

 

[WayneW]

Would a dremmel be able to cut these little pieces of metal?

Yes. With patience and a steady hand, a Dremel can cut almost anything that it can get to.

 

[tmbrown97]

altho - if your main purpose is for drywall, the rotozip is to tool of choice from drywall installers... though I did use a dremel for some of my can lighting. The rotozip is just a bigger dremel-type tool. I'd bet you could get a grinding tip on a flex-shaft somewhere.

However, even if you already have the stuff mounted in your cans, if you could wedge a large wooden dowel or a piece of scrap wood or something directly onto the humps, I'd personally go the "hammer them in" route. I'd just use something like a piece of wood to let me keep the swinging hammer outside the box. It'll be cleaner in the end most likely and only take 5 mins.

 

[wuench]

I did clip mine out. I just used a pair of snips and then pounded in the little bit of remaining metal.