wiring gri 2500T hai expansion enclosure
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McKinneySmart
Member
I have connected up other GRI 4 wire sensors, but not the 2500T. I did check GRIs website for the specs and it seems straight forward. The red and black wires would be for power and ground. The green and white are the relay contacts. There are not polarity sensitive. Now note that the 2500T is normally open. Therefore, it will provide a close when it detects water. So you will have to connect the "EOL" end-of-line resistor across the zone input. Or to put it another way, the resistor and relay contacts are in parallel. Not in series.
Hope that helps.
Jaybird47
Hope that helps.
Jaybird47
Hey Jaybird,
The green and white wires are the ones I am unsure of. I have an EOL in parallel at the sensor install location between the green and white wires per sensor install directions and the expansion enclosure requirements, however I am unsure if these wires should be connected to a zone on the expansion controller or directly to the relay module. If attached directly to the relay module, will the Omnipro2 be able to control the valve and where would you connect the valve in this case? I have been assuming the sensors should be attached to the expansion board and the valve to the relay board which should allow for the OP2 controller to automate the valve? Correct or incorrect assumption? I will be finalizing my wiring this week.
The green and white wires are the ones I am unsure of. I have an EOL in parallel at the sensor install location between the green and white wires per sensor install directions and the expansion enclosure requirements, however I am unsure if these wires should be connected to a zone on the expansion controller or directly to the relay module. If attached directly to the relay module, will the Omnipro2 be able to control the valve and where would you connect the valve in this case? I have been assuming the sensors should be attached to the expansion board and the valve to the relay board which should allow for the OP2 controller to automate the valve? Correct or incorrect assumption? I will be finalizing my wiring this week.
McKinneySmart
Member
The 2500T is a sensor. You would connect it to a zone on the Omni. This zone can be on the main board, an expansion module, or an expansion enclosure board. It is not polarity sensitive. The 2500T is only providing contact closure. So you it does not matter how the white/green wires connect up to the + and - leads of the zone.
Your statement of "..will the Omnipro2 be able to control the valve and where would you connect the valve in this case?" is not applicable. The Omni will not be able to control anything on the 2500T because there is nothing to control. All the communications is from the sensor to the Omni panel. When it detects water, the relay will close and provide contact closure. That's why you need to install the resistor across the zone input. When there is no water, normal condition, the Omni will see the 1,000 ohm resistor across the zone input. It will report this as a "secure" condition. When the sensor detects water, it will close the internal relay and thus provide a closed condition, or short, across the zone inputs. The Omni panel will report this as a "not ready" condition.
Sorry, but I do not follow you on the statement: "...allow for the OP2 controller to automate the valve?"
Your statement of "..will the Omnipro2 be able to control the valve and where would you connect the valve in this case?" is not applicable. The Omni will not be able to control anything on the 2500T because there is nothing to control. All the communications is from the sensor to the Omni panel. When it detects water, the relay will close and provide contact closure. That's why you need to install the resistor across the zone input. When there is no water, normal condition, the Omni will see the 1,000 ohm resistor across the zone input. It will report this as a "secure" condition. When the sensor detects water, it will close the internal relay and thus provide a closed condition, or short, across the zone inputs. The Omni panel will report this as a "not ready" condition.
Sorry, but I do not follow you on the statement: "...allow for the OP2 controller to automate the valve?"
Hey Jay,
Sorry, I should have been more clear about the valve. I understand how the sensors work as a discrete input into the OP2 or expansion enclosure. The question is how the sensors work with the OP2 to control an actuated ball valve that shuts off the water and how the sensor wiring (green and white) works with respect to the expansion controller, relay board and valve. In effect, I need the OP2 to control the actuated ball valve through the expansion enclosure and relay board.
Sorry, I should have been more clear about the valve. I understand how the sensors work as a discrete input into the OP2 or expansion enclosure. The question is how the sensors work with the OP2 to control an actuated ball valve that shuts off the water and how the sensor wiring (green and white) works with respect to the expansion controller, relay board and valve. In effect, I need the OP2 to control the actuated ball valve through the expansion enclosure and relay board.
McKinneySmart
Member
It would depend on the valve that shuts off the water. Does it take 12 volts DC, 24 volts AC, or something different?
In any case, you would take an output of the Omni (which is 12v DC) and connect it to the coil of a relay. HAI makes a 4-relay module and an 8-relay module. The 8-relay module works great with the Expansion Encloure because it can fit on the back plate if you are using one. An alternative is to use an Elk 912 relay. Then the C (common) and NO (normally open) contacts would provide contact closure to activate the value. Some value would require Normally Close contacts. Again you may need to provide the proper power suply to activate the value. I would need to know the exact water shutoff value you plan on using.
Then you would need to wirte some code to activate (or deactivate) the value. Example:
When <water sensor zone> Not Ready
Then <output to relay> ON
When <water sensor zone> Secure
Then <output to relay> OFF
I hope that helps.
jaybird47
In any case, you would take an output of the Omni (which is 12v DC) and connect it to the coil of a relay. HAI makes a 4-relay module and an 8-relay module. The 8-relay module works great with the Expansion Encloure because it can fit on the back plate if you are using one. An alternative is to use an Elk 912 relay. Then the C (common) and NO (normally open) contacts would provide contact closure to activate the value. Some value would require Normally Close contacts. Again you may need to provide the proper power suply to activate the value. I would need to know the exact water shutoff value you plan on using.
Then you would need to wirte some code to activate (or deactivate) the value. Example:
When <water sensor zone> Not Ready
Then <output to relay> ON
When <water sensor zone> Secure
Then <output to relay> OFF
I hope that helps.
jaybird47
The valve I have is a 1" spears true union electro series actuated ball valve operating at 24 VAC with the optional 2 wire control.
http://www.spears.com/AV-4/005_Electro%20Series%20Actuated%20Ball%20Valves.pdf
I already have the expansion enclosure and 8 relay module installed, now I am in the process of final wiring and sensor installs. I am curious if I could tap the power supply for the enclosure directly to power the valve as the list load of the valve exceeds the maximum load of the expansion enclosure by a good margin? I haven't crunched any numbers, but it seems like I should have plenty of excess power available. I am using the Elk 24V, 40 VAC transformer.
http://www.spears.com/AV-4/005_Electro%20Series%20Actuated%20Ball%20Valves.pdf
I already have the expansion enclosure and 8 relay module installed, now I am in the process of final wiring and sensor installs. I am curious if I could tap the power supply for the enclosure directly to power the valve as the list load of the valve exceeds the maximum load of the expansion enclosure by a good margin? I haven't crunched any numbers, but it seems like I should have plenty of excess power available. I am using the Elk 24V, 40 VAC transformer.
McKinneySmart
Member
DELInstallations is correct. The value is going to draw *WAY* to much current. You will need a separate 24VAC transformer/power supply to work with the value.
Also I took a look at the drawing for the "spears true union electro series actuated ball valve". It appears that that you will need to send 24 vac to activate the value.
However, I am not sure if you need to keep the voltage applied to keep the value closed. You might want to check with the manufacture.
Also I took a look at the drawing for the "spears true union electro series actuated ball valve". It appears that that you will need to send 24 vac to activate the value.
However, I am not sure if you need to keep the voltage applied to keep the value closed. You might want to check with the manufacture.
Yea, you are correct (crunched the numbers finally), and that current output is being generous.
With regard to applied power, I am fairly certain it is only needed to open and close the valve, unlike what you see with an AC diaphragm solenoid valve that requires constant power applied to keep it open (or closed) depending on the type of valve.
The diagram isn't clear, so I'd defer to the manufacturer. Looks to me based on the schematic it's 110V for operation and the LV is a signal to the relay coil. Whether or not it's required to keep the valve open or not isn't clear, however I'd wager that the continous current vs. inrush current would be significant, so I'd size the LV power with a safety factor of at least 20%.
The standard version of the actuator is 110V, I had to special order the actuator to get the 24 volt version. I may need to replace the actuator in any event as the one I have may be bad. Given that and the options for voltages, which do you think would work best with the EE and relay board? I don't have the specs for the EE and relay board in front of me at the moment.
