Wiring in the panel and cable jackets

[Jozza]

Hi All,
 
I'm into wiring my second panel of three in the house. The first panel has the M1, XEP, CBUS, TWA, surge protector, battery, and then space for service loops for the wiring. Given that there is not that may cables in there, I could get away with leaving the cable jacket on the cables coming into to the panel and only removing at the ends close to the inputs, etc they were connected to.
The second panel is a totally different beast. Its got four XINs, 2 XOVRs, a DBH, additional power supply, battery and PD9. Hence, it has a LOT of cables coming into the panel (from the top left corner).
 
For the cables going to the XINs and XOVRs, how are people approaching removing cable jacket material? i.e. Should I be:
1. Removing cable jacket 30cm after its entered the panel, and then lacing respective runs to each board?
2. Trying to keep cable jacket on until you route the cable to each board (I'm using SWGs) and then remove it?
3. Some other option?
 
The thing I keep butting heads against is the best way to (a) route wire pairs to Inputs, (b) also route pairs to power, (c) make sure its serviceable/manageable over time, and (d) not a complete mess!
 
I'm really after some help if possible as I've hit a wiring paralysis stage. The photo of my panel (a bit old as its now got DBH up the top, with a PD9 and power supply installed between the DBH and the I/O boards at the botom) is below (and in my gallery):

 
Thank you in advance.
 
Jozza

 

[Del91574]

Personally, I like stripping after I enter the panel, leaving about a foot or so of jacket for cable labeling.
 
Assuming there's no panduit or trough outside, I try to leave as much slack as possible. Usually I twist the pairs and spin them, zones as a pair and power as their own pair.
 
I try to dress larger M1's by expander or plug (XIN's by 8 zones/plug) and then the related as need be. You just need to be logical and think of what needs to be completed at each portion and where the next bundle is.
 
I've also become partial to cable lacing or even using scrap conductors to bundle cables. I also use safety wire pliers to twist my pairs and the "harnesses"
 
I'm not a fan of leaving all the jacket on up to the plug or termination. Usually makes it more difficult to work on IMHO. Access control is somewhat different, and the products I'm using for that....I usually have a LOT more cable than a loaded M1 in the can.

 

[Neurorad]

I really like the look of slotted wire duct/finger channel in LV enclosures, but it really eats up a lot of real estate.

It's readily available in various sizes at your local electric supply house, but with the duct cover, and availability in long lengths only, the cost adds up too. Lots left over.

 

[Del91574]

I wouldn't use it inside an enclosure until you really had a lot of cables.....basically a mass the size of your forearm or bigger. At that point, you're using a bigger enclosure anyways.
 
Since I'm usually putting the panels on a board or unfinished space, I use troughs or panduit on the outside of the enclosure for the slack, nipple to that, and then only bring as much copper into the enclosure to make it "right and tight"

 

[Jozza]

Thanks guys for the leads and advice. Sorry I hadn't responded sooner, as I've had my head in the panel on and off over the last two days. Its definitely working well, and I've now made significant progress. I'm really appreciative of the tips!
 
One thing I stuffed up was that I didn't realise that the cables already had pairs pre-twisted inside. Hence, when I fitted off motions, reed switches, glass breaks, etc, I never notices as I didn't remove a lot of the cable jacket. Now that I have, I'm finding I should have used the natural pairs for things like power, NC/Com, Tamper, etc. Doh, well you live and learn!

 

[jon102034050]

Glad it's going well, let's get some pics of your progress!