Wiring these windows

beelzerob

Senior Member
Fear is finally setting in. I've now inspected the installed windows in the house and I'm scratching my head where I'm going to put the contact sensors. The windows are the Andersen 200 double hung tilt/wash series.

I think there's no hope at all of a concealed sensor, specifically on the lower sash. There's very little broad flat edge on any of them.
This is the bottom edge of the bottom sash:
bottom_sash_bottom.jpg



The thickest smooth part is barely 3/8". Aren't the smallest concealed sensor magnets more than that? The other issue is that when the window is closed, there's still a decent gap between the bottom of the sash and the frame:
bottom_sash_closed_gap.jpg


About 1/4". You can also see that the area where the contact sensor matching the magnet would go in the frame, and it looks like it might be even less than 3/8".

So, I considered the top part of the bottom sash...it has a thicker area (on the side of course, since nothing could be mounted on the top and be concealed).
bottom_sash_top.jpg


So there appears to be plenty of room there for a small magnet. However....in the frame where that part of the sash would be, there's a bunch of fur-type stuff. Not exactly drilling heaven.
frame_middle.jpg


I'm not sure how I feel about trying to drill through that...the fur is probably there for a reason.

Now with the top sash, I have another delimna...there's absolutely NO place for a surface mount. Part of the reason is that when the bottom sash is opened all the way up, it leaves this:
bottom_sash_open_top_gap.jpg


I know it LOOKS like a gap, but in reality, it has completely covered the top sash. So any surface mounted anything will be cleanly scraped off everytime we open the bottom sash. I suppose I can artificially limit how far the bottom sash can open....

But maybe I won't have to...the top sash seems to have more and better potential for putting in a concealed sensor on the top. Here's the top of the sash:
top_sash_top.jpg

Almost 3/4"!
And the top of the frame where that seats is about the same size (ladybug for scale...and because they're EVERYWHERE):
frame_top.jpg



So I'm thinking at this point I'd probably have to go surface mount on the bottom sash and concealed on the top. I'd really rather go concealed on the bottom too.

Does anyone see any better option or something that might fit in these constraints and work well?

MUCH LATER....

Well, here is how I finally did it:

The circles indicate where the sensors and magnets were put. I drilled into the frame surrounding the window just below the middle of the window, where the sashes meet. In this pic, the bottom sash is unlatched and tilted out so I can work on it.
window.jpg


The first thing I did was the top sash because that's where the end of the wire was....on the 2nd floor, I had to do the bottom sash first. It didn't really matter.
First was the prep...

I needed to make sure that the magnet was lined up with where the sensor went, so I put a piece of tape on the sash at the spot the magnet was going to go, because that was kind of picky. Then I closed the sash, and put another piece of tape on the frame at the same spot. So, as long as I drill the hole right next to the tape into the frame, and then glue the magnet right next to the tape on the sash, then they'll certainly be close enough to work together.
ts_prep.jpg


I then drilled the hole using the 3/8" bit. The bit had a very sharp bit, so I can basically press it into the vinyl (they were vinyl clad wood windows) so that the bit didn't walk at all. Once the hole was drilled, I used a spare piece of wire, twisted into a little loop, and I pushed it up into the hole. I then took my specially made tool (it's a leftover piece of metal from when I installed our garage door opener over 2 years ago, with holes drilled into it to make a hook) to slide between the window and house frame and snag the wire and pull it through.

ts_fishing.jpg


I took the 22/4 wire, stripped off about 6" of outer insulation, and then cut the red and green wires off. Our scheme is "top cops"....that means black and white go on the top sash, which leaves "christmas" (red and green) on the bottom sash. So, I took the black and white wires, put them in the little loop, and pulled the green wire back out. It worked almost always, almost flawlessly. When I had to pull particularly hard, then I trimmed off the bent portion of wire. Then I stripped about 3/8" off the wires (I bought a new pair of wire strippers, with a 22 gauge hole...I was very pleased with how well they worked), twisted the strands together, inserted it in the sensor and tightened the screws.

ts_sensor_wired.jpg


Then I pushed it into the hole, making sure to keep the slack free. They hold very well just by friction, I didn't feel the need to glue it.

ts_sensor_installed.jpg


For the magnet, it fit in the channel on the top of the sash perfectly. I just put a spot of gorilla glue on the bottom and I was done....with the TOP sash.

ts_magnet.jpg



For the bottom sash, I drilled the hole just below the pencil mark. The mark was made by tracing the top of the bottom sash, so I knew to not go any higher than that. It was a very small area to work with...the hole just barely fit below the mark and above the end of the plastic.

bs_hole_drilled.jpg


I did the same trick to get the wire out the hole, and then hooked up the sensor.
bs_sensor_wired.jpg


This one also pushed in and held in place nicely.

bs_sensor_installed.jpg


I'm pleased with how well concealed it ends up...with the window in place, you'd basically never see it.

For the magnet, I had to drill a small hole in the top of the sash. I wasn't using the same magnet that I used on the top sash...they were much too big. So I bought a bunch of smaller magnets. They were 3/8" diamater, but only 1/4" thick. So I just had to drill a 1/4" hole. However, again, the area to work with was small, and there was a small divot on that edge, so I had to make sure the drill didn't walk around. So, I made a guide out of a spare piece of wood and more of my handy garage-door-opener metal. Don't I have all the fancy tools??! A couple clamps to hold it on, and it worked just fine.

bs_drill_template.jpg


Another dab of gorilla glue, and the magnet is in. I bought the kind with the hole in the center in case I wanted to actually screw them in later, should the gorilla glue be found to be lacking.


bs_magnet_installed.jpg


So there ya go. They weren't as hard as I was terrified they'd be...and so far, from the testing, they work just great.
 
The rare earth magnets should work with your windows I believe. They're 3/8" round. You just screw them into the bottoms (or top) of your windows.

Sensors.JPG


In case you haven't read it, check out BSR's guide about wiring sensors (he doesn't give any ideas for your situation):
http://www.cocoontech.com/index.php?showtopic=739

Man, this is crazy. You and I are at about the same stage in our projects. Every question that you ask is something I'm trying to figure out too. Good stuff....
 
I had the same problem with my windows. There was just no way to make an invisible contact...until I discovered a couple of things:

1) I could remove some of the trim, drill the hole for the wired end of the sensor and put the trim back.

2) The 'dumb' end of the sensor is just a magnet. Why on earth it needs to be 3/4 long is something I don't get!!! I went to this website http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D401 and bought 50 1/32 thick magnets for like 15 bucks. They work great. I stuck them to part of the window linkage mechanism with a dab of glue. They are completely hidden and work well. I used them all over. In some places where the gap was pretty big I just stuck 2 together. I suspect if you asked a pro to take a quick glance they would never find them.

I'll try to get some pictures in the AM if you like.
 
I did the same as Hucker. I purchased smaller magnets off of e-bay that were 1/8 x 1/4. Then drilled a small hole with a 1/8 drill bit, squirted in some white silicone stuff, and inserted the magnet. Pretty painless.



Steve
 
I had the same problem with my windows. There was just no way to make an invisible contact...until I discovered a couple of things:

1) I could remove some of the trim, drill the hole for the wired end of the sensor and put the trim back.

2) The 'dumb' end of the sensor is just a magnet. Why on earth it needs to be 3/4 long is something I don't get!!! I went to this website http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D401 and bought 50 1/32 thick magnets for like 15 bucks. They work great. I stuck them to part of the window linkage mechanism with a dab of glue. They are completely hidden and work well. I used them all over. In some places where the gap was pretty big I just stuck 2 together. I suspect if you asked a pro to take a quick glance they would never find them.

I'll try to get some pictures in the AM if you like.

nice score, I think I'll get some of these. With a 3 pound pull force, these ought to work very well :lol: Does it matter which way you mount them? (certain side needs to face sensor? Is that a stupid question?
 
1. Consider special wired insect screens instead of contacts on the windows.

2. Do you think it is necessary to install contacts on the upper sash? I'm just doing my lower sashes. I'll also have glass breaks and PIRs in the most vulnerable areas.

3. I contacted the manufacturer of my windows and asked for their sugestions about safe places to drill holes to install sensors. Their reply was simple - Don't! They provided rather detailed drawings of the cross sections of various parts which convinced me to use surface mounts. For example, the hollow area that comprises the window stool is used for drainage, so I won't be drilling there.

4. Good luck!
 
1. Consider special wired insect screens instead of contacts on the windows.

2. Do you think it is necessary to install contacts on the upper sash? I'm just doing my lower sashes. I'll also have glass breaks and PIRs in the most vulnerable areas.

3. I contacted the manufacturer of my windows and asked for their sugestions about safe places to drill holes to install sensors. Their reply was simple - Don't! They provided rather detailed drawings of the cross sections of various parts which convinced me to use surface mounts. For example, the hollow area that comprises the window stool is used for drainage, so I won't be drilling there.

4. Good luck!


Great replies, everyone.

Snypez...hehe, glad I could help. I'll shoulder the questions for both of us. ;)

Hucker, pics are ALWAYS appreciated. That link is also really helpful. I'm much less worried about drilling the surrounding frame than I am the sash, so a tiny magnet there might do the trick.

Photon....well, I think you saved me a phone call. I was going to call Andersen too about possible installation locations, but I'm SURE they'll say the same thing. They have cross sections available online for this series of windows, and it was scary just looking at them.

Wiring the screen instead of the window is a really interesting idea. There's a couple concerns I've have with that, though....First, the screen could then easily be sliced open to reach the window, which would not be wired...and no glass would be broken in the process. Second, I could see removing these screens each winter, when bugs are gone, just to enjoy the openness. Third, that would expose the contact sensor to moisture and elements/freezing, not sure how bad that would be.

As far as wiring the upper sash....well, it's just as easily moveable as the lower one, and no way to lock it. For the ground level windows, that's not that much of a greater stretch to get in there as it is the lower sash, so for simple security sake, doing just the bottom sash I think would be insufficient.
 
Wiring the screen instead of the window is a really interesting idea. There's a couple concerns I've have with that, though....First, the screen could then easily be sliced open to reach the window, which would not be wired...and no glass would be broken in the process. Second, I could see removing these screens each winter, when bugs are gone, just to enjoy the openness. Third, that would expose the contact sensor to moisture and elements/freezing, not sure how bad that would be.
I have suggested wired screen several times, they work well. But the big drawback that is always brought up is the cost. An average size window will cost $40-$80 for the screen. The screen can not be sliced open as there is a wired threaded through it and if cut will open the circuit. You could cut a hole maybe the size of your fist, but that will do no good. The screen is also wired with a built in switch (most use a regular reed switch with a magnet, but I think there are some with like mercury tilt switches), so essentially the circuit will open if the screen is removed as well. Many windows only have the screen on the lower portion, so you would have to address the upper anyway. In mine, the upper is a fixed glass pane, so screen is only on lower portion. But yea, if you intend to remove them, then they would be useless.
 
"Wiring the screen instead of the window is a really interesting idea. There's a couple concerns I've have with that, though....First, the screen could then easily be sliced open to reach the window, which would not be wired...and no glass would be broken in the process."

I'm sorry I wasn't more specific. There are security screens that have a wire looped about the screen fabric in such a pattern that if the bad guy slashes the screen, he cuts the wire and trips the alarm. I understand they are a bit pricey, but you have Anderson windows; that popular brand might = standard size = lower cost.

I'm still wondering about doing the upper sash. My windows have two latches that secure the upper sash to the lower sash. If I remember to lock the windows, I don't see how these latches could be opened from the outside without breaking some glass. My ground floor windows are high enough off the ground that it would be difficult to get in the top half of the window. I would think a bad guy would take the path of least resistance and open the bottom. I agree with you, though, that both uppers and lowers should have sensors to be sure. I'm counting on the PIRs and glass breaks to cover me if I'm wrong. I might even experiment with some form of detection outside the house.

I hope you have time to post some pix of your final solution. I know building a house is a busy time. We've been in ours for just about a year and there are still a million things left to do.
 
Now that laser pointers are so cheap you even find them at the dollar store, you would think they could be incorporated into a break-the-beam detector with a photo transistor at the other end to cover a long range, like the length of the house, for pretty cheap. Some company should do that so I don't have to put my hobby hat on and experiment.
 
Oh, I understand now for the screens. Clever. Ya, I don't think shelling out more for special screens is going to fly very well with the Mrs. And I can still see removing the screens in winter (even if not for air flow, but just for the view).

I'm kind of surprised that Andersen doesn't build in some kind of circuit into their windows. I mean, all they'd have to do is have a complete circuit when the two sashes are together, and you'd instantly have both sashes covered. If they built it into the window itself, then you'd just wire to the outside of the frame and be covered. Perhaps in some distant future....

I guess I'm going to have to pick up some cheap magnetic reed switches somewhere and start doing some experimenting, along with those small magnets. I'll have to see what kind of gap they can tolerate.

And sure, I'll include pics of the final decisions. I'm getting a lot from cocoontech, if I can give back in any way, I will.

And I forgot to say...ya, Snypez, I did see that wiring guide for windows, and that was really useful. It is what inspired me to go out and take a hard look at my windows and see what the deal is...and that's when I started losing all courage. Heh.
 
Now that laser pointers are so cheap you even find them at the dollar store, you would think they could be incorporated into a break-the-beam detector with a photo transistor at the other end to cover a long range, like the length of the house, for pretty cheap. Some company should do that so I don't have to put my hobby hat on and experiment.
I was actually thinking of doing this, but later reconsidered as I wasn't satisified that I could mount the beam at a safe level for adults, kids and pets.
 
Now that laser pointers are so cheap you even find them at the dollar store, you would think they could be incorporated into a break-the-beam detector with a photo transistor at the other end to cover a long range, like the length of the house, for pretty cheap. Some company should do that so I don't have to put my hobby hat on and experiment.
I was actually thinking of doing this, but later reconsidered as I wasn't satisified that I could mount the beam at a safe level for adults, kids and pets.

You guys are into "narrow thinking" security mode here. To me, one of the biggest values of window sensors is going to be HA reminders that a window was left open. Can't do that with beams or screens... don't get so security focused that you forget the big picture!
 
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