Wiring window and door

[bearfan]

I have been looking around house at options for mounting sensors and it seems the easiest method for my windows is sensors on screen since I have drywall returns and I do not want to drill windows.
My front door seems to be a hard one to wire.Only way I see is to make a groove in between top of door and bottom of window and run it over to door and then drill into and then a hole up to intersect that hole.Thier is trim over that area.

Any suggestions would be helpful.




window

Front Door

 

[carry15+1]

You don't show the bottom of the door - is it possible you could install a recessed contact in the threashold and run it to the basement/crawl space? You would have to remove the door to install the permanent magnet, but that shouldn't be too hard. I used the brass screw-in 3/8" recessed contacts on all my doors.

 

[jeffx]

I used the brass screw-in 3/8" recessed contacts on all my doors.

where did buy these?

 

[bearfan]

I'll have to look at that.Thanks

I am having trouble finding wire anyone have some good links?I did a search and got some.Anymore?22-4,22-2,18-2.Home stores have no 22 at all.

 

[Steve]

I can't see the window too well, a full pic may help, but for the door my suggestion would be to come in from the left side corner at the bottom of the arch. Drill a small hole thru those studs and the window frame. Use a small piece of 22 gauge zip cord over to where the main door is and drill thru from bottom of window to door and use recessed contacts. You could also put a small glass/vibration sensor in that corner of the arch as well. I have a similar front door (double door instead of sidelights) but with similar arch. Mine was done after so my wire comes in from the top of the arch and runs along the edge - you have the advantage of coming from the side where the wire will be 100% invisible.

 

[alarmguy]

You could do this, see pic, drill 3/8 hole through door jam, side light, framing studs, fish wire across and use flush mount contact. Does a nice clean job and nothing is surface mounted. Drill bit 18 to 24" long Menards & Home Depot in our area, Indiana,

 

[carry15+1]

I used the brass screw-in 3/8" recessed contacts on all my doors.

where did buy these?

Here's some examples.

http://www.homesecuritystore.com/ezStore12...=2_1_1_1_0_0_45

I don't recall where I got the brass version - perhaps Worthington http://www.worthdist.com

 

[bearfan]

Thanks alarmguy.I suppose you could drill smaller all the way thru for just the wire and then 3/8 at doorjam for sensor,correct?I only have 3/4 width in sidelight.

Carryon,could you please let me know what sensors you used for screens on windows.Also how you mounted them?

 

[carry15+1]

Carryon,could you please let me know what sensors you used for screens on windows.Also how you mounted them?

My installation is not the best. I'm counting on a burglar to not take the time to slice the screen out of the frame to make entry - perhaps a bad assumption. I used ordinary stick on window contacts. The magnet is stuck to the frame and the switch is stuck to the jam. I'm "assuming" a burglar will just push the screen in to gain access - thereby tripping the alarm.

As I backup I have 4 dogs

 

[bearfan]

Do you have a picture of your screen contacts?I am wondering how to mount mine as thier is little room with my drywall returns

 

[Steve]

I'm just curious why you would bother drilling all the way thru a solid sidelight when you can simply go thru the frame and top of the door as I described above? I'm not saying that won't work, but it seems alot more difficult with no additional benefit? I would also be concerned about not drilling 100% straight and the bit damaging the visible surface of the sidelight.

As for screens, the best protection is a wired screen, but they are not inexpensive - roughly $50 for avg size single hung.

 

[bearfan]

Either way would be okay.GC told me inside is foam so once you go thru wood its easy to stay in center without damaging.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

I thought there was some sort of code for solid doors on an exterior.

Anyway, if you do decide to drill that long distance, I would use an undersized drill bit (say 1/4" if your sensor requires 3/8") then use a standard length to enlarge the hole after you are finished with the long length.

This way your hole will not get oblonged while drilling with that longer bit.

 

[bearfan]

Yep,thats what I was thinking of BSR.Maybe the door but the jam?Not sure.In my county its not real strict anyway.

 

[bearfan]

Question guys.For the rough in here is a week or so I need to run wire for sensors .What do I need for speakers?I mean do they fit in boxes or just run the wire and then mount in drywall?I know the elk kepad has a rough in box already so thats no big deal.

Also is there any date on the keypad that fits in a wall plate?