paralysis by analysis

uscpsycho said:
Just when I was getting excited about trying CQC I'm starting to feel like CQC is not for me. I want to be able to see the status of my lights, windows, doors, etc. remotely. I want to be able to turn lights on or unlock doors remotely. I want a slick interface to control everything from my Android devices. I also want notifications on my cellphone that are triggered by certain events like doors/windows opening or lights being turned on. Not having these things is a deal breaker for me which is why C4 or RTI might be the best option for me.
I have a 23" touchscreen monitor to put up in my kitchen that will run Windows 8 and I will be able to have as fancy an interface as I want with CQC and you can most definitely know I will have such an elegant, easy-to-use interface that will give me full control of my house. I plan to put a second touchscreen monitor at the top of the stairs on the second floor. I could easily put cheap Dell Venue 8 or 11 full Windows tablets around the house if I wanted to but not sure I will as these 2 monitors are centrally located. We will be able to manage the home automation, music, irrigation, kids calendars, surf, recipes, etc. The other options Dean mentioned would be for remote devices where the interface can still be nice but might not have all of the cool whizbang transitions and smooth sliding panels. That doesn't mean the remote interface isn't just as nice or informative because it absolutely can be. In reading about Dean's efforts I know he has put a ton of work into ensuring interfaces of different sizes have pictures scaled for just that size device and precached/configured so the interface is fast. I think maybe Dean is doing himself a disservice calling CQC 4.5 when it really should be a 5.0 product based on all of the work he has done on the back-end engine.

I read where Work2Play said that none of the DIY solutions have as elegant touchscreens and I completely respect his opinion as he is a true pro and I'm a dabbler but if I were to take a small Dell Venue 8, I would think I could have an even more capable touchscreen than any of the pre-configured big boys. That's a guess but I personally don't feel I will be missing any functionality, might even be better with more control, and surely a hell of a lot cheaper. And if my kid drops the remote, I'm not going to be nearly as upset if he drops a $200 Windows tablet vs a $1,000+ "remote". And that menas I could have a couple remotes around the living room instead of the potential of getting up to get "THE" remote that is sitting on a table on the other side of the room.
I wonder if Homeseer or Elve or any other DIY software control option has the features I want. Thoughts?
I originally wanted to go with Elve but I got into this about a year and a half ago when work on Elve ceased. What is it's future...who knows but likely isn't going to compare to something like CQC that has Dean fully committed to its' success. And drivers...they don't have one for RadioRa2 and many other devices you might want...who are you going to ask to build you one?

Regarding Homeseer, that is a competitor to CQC and I've never used it. I did look at it because it seemed to have more plugins and hardware that could be purchased from their site. The more I looked into Homeseer though, the more I worried about quality as some said certain drivers were good while others weren't so much. In this case, the third-party sourced driver model didn't have consistent quality. CQC has third-party drivers as well but they are more community driven, not for sale, which to me might mean it was backwards but based on what I've read, the third-party drivers are solid. I'm sure there are exceptions but with Homeseer, driver quality seemed to be a wide-spread issue. Maybe this has changed with Homeseer 3 having been released.
Lutron's website is filled with all kinds of switches that range from the cheap to the very expensive. Is there a RA2 switch with wireless communication like Pete described? Is that the way to go? What's it called and what's it cost? It's not battery powered, is it?
  
Are you saying that $20 switch will work with RA2? My integrator is telling me I HAVE to use the very expensive Lutron switches.
Sorry for the confusion. Unless you want to spend a ton of money, there is no rule that every single light in your house has to be automated. Do you want all of the closet lights automated? I have a mix of RadioRa2 dimmers/switches, Lutron Maestro "dumb" switches" (match RadioRa2 perfectly), the dumb motion sensor switches I previously linked (switched based motion sensor has to work for placement), and timer switches (http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-T51-WH-Maestro-Countdown-Timer/dp/B001EFV1DA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1403884839&sr=8-1&keywords=lutron+bathroom+timer) for items like the bathroom fan. Again, I looked at what I needed and determined the best solution. Do I need automation control of a particular light? Will a dumb motion sensor switch work well? For an automated light, do I want motion control of it?
I need LED lots of dimmers for LED lighting. Will this work for $54? Or do I need this $200 dimmer?
This page shows the model numbers for RadioRa2 devices from last year (http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products/Pages/WholeHomeSystems/RadioRA2/ModelNumbers.aspx). The $54 item you linked is a Maestro switch, which is part of their stand-alone (non-automated) collection and frankly seems expensive. I believe there are cheaper Maestro dimmers such as ones at the big box store. If you're paying $54 for a switch, you might as well buy RadioRa2, but keep in mind the 100/200 device limit. The second dimmer you linked for $200 seems expensive as well and I would only spend more than that for a single control if it was something like a hybrid keypad switch (RRD‑H6BRL). The latest RadioRa2 dimmer is the RRD6CLWH and the most popular RadioRa2 switch is RRD‑8ANS and for 3-way or more switch legs, you would get the remote dimmer RDRD and remote switch RDRS, respectively. By the way, I have several of the hybrid keypads in the kitchen to control the main lights, pendants, under cabinet, under island, "All Off", etc. but still have a regular RadioRa2 dimmer right next to the hybrid keypad for the main kitchen lights. That way you can quickly come in to the kitchen and hit a big button to turn on the lights and then selec any additional lights from the smaller keypad buttons.

Also, related to the Sonos comments, the Sonos has its software updated...I have read of some of the older versions of Russound or Nuvo not getting updated as quickly or at all to support more recent music streaming solutions. That right there would be enough to scare me. In any of these things, I worry if the company is solid enough to continue, did they sell enough of X item for them to support it long-term, etc.

One other thought I had, make sure you wire for exterior lights on every single corner of your house. It would be nice to use some sort of security/automation based lighting solution but I just use dumb (but high quality) motion sensors built into the light fixtures with bright led lights and we haven't had any vehicle break-ins while other neighbors have. The security lights do a good job of lighting the perimeter that makes it not the best place to be at night if up to no good...very easy to see people around the perimeter. And if you have a long house, throw 1 or 2 in the center to make sure your house lights up like Las Vegas when anyone comes near. And while it would be nice to have them automated, I bought mine before I got into automation and haven't found a solution worth making me change yet.
 
Don't get me wrong - you can do very nice PC-based interfaces - but none that match the in-wall style I'm talking about like what the crestron/control4/rti guys have.  I wish someone would make a windows tablet that's designed to mount in the wall easily and in a code-compliant fashion, then all these DIY options would get a lot stronger instantly.  Throw in intercom, and I'll buy a dozen of them.
 
We ended up automating basically every light and any lights/fans not automated yet will be eventually - particularly because I have functions like "When alarm exit timer expires, turn off every light in the house".  Bathroom fans if turned on will turn themselves off after a period of time; etc.
 
Good point on the flush mount.  I flush mounted my 23" touchscreen in the kitchen. :)
 
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@ Work,
 
Look up Comark. 100% compliant and designed to be mounted in a wall and have been part of the larger picture for almost 10 years. The larger question would be if the interface is "sexy" enough for most. They're a lot more durable than the Crestron/C4 units.
 
Work2Play said:
As you've no doubt figured out, trying to nail everything in the middle of construction is just unrealistic - but it's perfectly reasonable to make choices to go with systems/products that are integration-friendly, then come back and tie it all together once the house is built.  Nothing about the house should absolutely require the automation up-front; those are just items that make living in the house more convenient and enjoyable.
 
My biggest complaint about the DIY world is that there are no nice looking touchscreen/control options.  There's just nothing that compares to the aesthetics and functionality of a Control4/Crestron/AMX touchscreen.  In my own home, I have an Elk M1G - and the iPhone interface works pretty well to control things - but I'm about to toss an RTI remote into the mix just so that, while sitting in bed, I can turn down the temperature, kick on the ceiling fan, switch on the UPB appliance module attached to the subwoofer (wife drives me nuts - always killing the bedroom sub), and play whatever I want; will probably also tie in the whole house fan so we can kill it without even getting up.  The only thing I'm dreading is I think I'll have to write the Elk driver myself.  This would never drive me to C4 though - at least tossing an RTI processor into the mix gets you their touchscreens and iOS/Android control.
 
For audio, Sonos is fun - has a better app - but it's very expensive compared to the old standby options of Russound or Nuvo that can integrate with any system.  Or if you go HAI OmniPro, you can get their HiFi2 as well - which should be controllable through RTI or any other remote system that can talk HAI.
 
Thermostats - going with the HAI or AprilAire or one of the serially connected ones should get you integration with most anything - at least run Cat5 to the thermostats and ensure there are plenty of conductors in the thermostat wire.  It's unfortunate that RCS dropped their smart zone control instead of just improving on it - I really like that system (I have it here); but smart thermostats should be able to be integrated as well.
 
Video distribution - i saw mention of getting HDMI in the walls... I just wanted to mention that the current generation of HDMI over Cat5 extenders really do work well - so don't be afraid of going that route too if you need.   I have them driving 3D TV's and 4K projectors working just fine; about to do a large matrix as well using the HDBaseT extenders.
 
I'm sure I'm missing some things - but my biggest point is that there are a handful of professional options that integrate well so as long as you choose those now you can come back and tie in the automation and interface options down the line. 
 
I'm finding that it's not so easy to install everything so that it is integration-ready, then come back later and decide on the automation. This primarily has to do with the control panels. If I go with C4 or RTI I am going to have some in-wall panels that I need to install now. So I still feel like I have to make a final decision now.
 
The touchscreen situation is really a thorn in my side too. Not just from a usability standpoint but from an aesthetic standpoint. My house is going to be contemporary and I'd like to have a few strategically placed fancy color control panels. It gives the house an upscale wow factor. The downside is that these control panels are RIDICULOUSLY overpriced. I am an Android guy and ordinarily avoid any iDevices but if I go with RTI/C4 I might cave in and get some iPads because I can get wall mounts with inductive charging. That gives me the ability to have a nice on-wall (or even in-wall) touch control that doesn't cost $1000+ and unlike RTI/C4 panels I can take it off the wall and use it wherever I want to.
 
On that subject the mobile apps for some of the home automation systems have horrible reviews, so simply having an Android app isn't enough. RTI and C4 apps have a plethora of very good reviews.
 
I asked this a couple of times in the thread but nobody answered. RTI and C4 have their own gear for audio distribution. C4 also has their own gear for video distribution and their own thermostats, among other C4 equipment. If I use RTI/C4 do I have to use their components or will they work with equipment that is more open? Any downsides to integrating third party gear with RTI or C4?
 
What is the benefit of using HDMI over Cat5 rather than just running HDMI? Is it for future-proofing?
 
pete_c said:
+ 1 WorktoPlay
 
@uscpsycho - might be easier for you to get the services of an automation "specialist" that works for you and not specifically for any one automation company to custom fit the automation to your needs. 
 
Many many years ago during commercial building construction I used an interior decorator.  Mostly cuz she knew much more than me relating to the coordinating of space using colors, furniture and do whats.  I had her involved from "soup" to "nuts" and it worked for me. 
 
Best for you to hire an automation "head chef" obi wan that works for you and pay that person for their expertise. 
 
You are getting to a point of having to make automation infrastructure decisions unless there is no timeline for what you want to do. 
 
Where is this specialist who is local, well versed in all things automation (C4, RTI, CQC, HAI, Homeseer, etc.), will give completely unbiased advice and not charge an arm and a leg? If this person exists I'd like to hire them on a consultation basis ONLY with no possibility for selling me any products or installing anything. Because as soon as they become a vendor their opinions become clouded by their margins, their inventory, their expertise, etc. I think such a person is just a figment of my imagination.
 
My timeline is not unlimited and every day I spend analyzing instead of planning is a day lost.  :mellow:
 
dgage said:
I have a 23" touchscreen monitor to put up in my kitchen that will run Windows 8 and I will be able to have as fancy an interface as I want with CQC and you can most definitely know I will have such an elegant, easy-to-use interface that will give me full control of my house. I plan to put a second touchscreen monitor at the top of the stairs on the second floor. I could easily put cheap Dell Venue 8 or 11 full Windows tablets around the house if I wanted to but not sure I will as these 2 monitors are centrally located. We will be able to manage the home automation, music, irrigation, kids calendars, surf, recipes, etc. The other options Dean mentioned would be for remote devices where the interface can still be nice but might not have all of the cool whizbang transitions and smooth sliding panels. That doesn't mean the remote interface isn't just as nice or informative because it absolutely can be. In reading about Dean's efforts I know he has put a ton of work into ensuring interfaces of different sizes have pictures scaled for just that size device and precached/configured so the interface is fast. I think maybe Dean is doing himself a disservice calling CQC 4.5 when it really should be a 5.0 product based on all of the work he has done on the back-end engine.

I read where Work2Play said that none of the DIY solutions have as elegant touchscreens and I completely respect his opinion as he is a true pro and I'm a dabbler but if I were to take a small Dell Venue 8, I would think I could have an even more capable touchscreen than any of the pre-configured big boys. That's a guess but I personally don't feel I will be missing any functionality, might even be better with more control, and surely a hell of a lot cheaper. And if my kid drops the remote, I'm not going to be nearly as upset if he drops a $200 Windows tablet vs a $1,000+ "remote". And that menas I could have a couple remotes around the living room instead of the potential of getting up to get "THE" remote that is sitting on a table on the other side of the room.I originally wanted to go with Elve but I got into this about a year and a half ago when work on Elve ceased. What is it's future...who knows but likely isn't going to compare to something like CQC that has Dean fully committed to its' success. And drivers...they don't have one for RadioRa2 and many other devices you might want...who are you going to ask to build you one?

Regarding Homeseer, that is a competitor to CQC and I've never used it. I did look at it because it seemed to have more plugins and hardware that could be purchased from their site. The more I looked into Homeseer though, the more I worried about quality as some said certain drivers were good while others weren't so much. In this case, the third-party sourced driver model didn't have consistent quality. CQC has third-party drivers as well but they are more community driven, not for sale, which to me might mean it was backwards but based on what I've read, the third-party drivers are solid. I'm sure there are exceptions but with Homeseer, driver quality seemed to be a wide-spread issue. Maybe this has changed with Homeseer 3 having been released.Sorry for the confusion. Unless you want to spend a ton of money, there is no rule that every single light in your house has to be automated. Do you want all of the closet lights automated? I have a mix of RadioRa2 dimmers/switches, Lutron Maestro "dumb" switches" (match RadioRa2 perfectly), the dumb motion sensor switches I previously linked (switched based motion sensor has to work for placement), and timer switches (http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-T51-WH-Maestro-Countdown-Timer/dp/B001EFV1DA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1403884839&sr=8-1&keywords=lutron+bathroom+timer) for items like the bathroom fan. Again, I looked at what I needed and determined the best solution. Do I need automation control of a particular light? Will a dumb motion sensor switch work well? For an automated light, do I want motion control of it?This page shows the model numbers for RadioRa2 devices from last year (http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products/Pages/WholeHomeSystems/RadioRA2/ModelNumbers.aspx). The $54 item you linked is a Maestro switch, which is part of their stand-alone (non-automated) collection and frankly seems expensive. I believe there are cheaper Maestro dimmers such as ones at the big box store. If you're paying $54 for a switch, you might as well buy RadioRa2, but keep in mind the 100/200 device limit. The second dimmer you linked for $200 seems expensive as well and I would only spend more than that for a single control if it was something like a hybrid keypad switch (RRD‑H6BRL). The latest RadioRa2 dimmer is the RRD6CLWH and the most popular RadioRa2 switch is RRD‑8ANS and for 3-way or more switch legs, you would get the remote dimmer RDRD and remote switch RDRS, respectively. By the way, I have several of the hybrid keypads in the kitchen to control the main lights, pendants, under cabinet, under island, "All Off", etc. but still have a regular RadioRa2 dimmer right next to the hybrid keypad for the main kitchen lights. That way you can quickly come in to the kitchen and hit a big button to turn on the lights and then selec any additional lights from the smaller keypad buttons.

Also, related to the Sonos comments, the Sonos has its software updated...I have read of some of the older versions of Russound or Nuvo not getting updated as quickly or at all to support more recent music streaming solutions. That right there would be enough to scare me. In any of these things, I worry if the company is solid enough to continue, did they sell enough of X item for them to support it long-term, etc.

One other thought I had, make sure you wire for exterior lights on every single corner of your house. It would be nice to use some sort of security/automation based lighting solution but I just use dumb (but high quality) motion sensors built into the light fixtures with bright led lights and we haven't had any vehicle break-ins while other neighbors have. The security lights do a good job of lighting the perimeter that makes it not the best place to be at night if up to no good...very easy to see people around the perimeter. And if you have a long house, throw 1 or 2 in the center to make sure your house lights up like Las Vegas when anyone comes near. And while it would be nice to have them automated, I bought mine before I got into automation and haven't found a solution worth making me change yet.
 
I think you are somewhat missing Work2Play's frustration, and mine, with respect to touch panels. You can't install a Dell Venue 8 onto the wall. And I don't want 23" computers all over the house. Also, the handheld RTI remotes have a great form factor with physical buttons that are so much better for some applications than using a touchscreen remote/tablet. In a lot of ways the user interface is the most important aspect of an automated home and with DIY software solutions you are very limited. On the flipside, perhaps I am overestimating how much interaction I will actually have with my automation. In my head there will be regular interaction but in reality it may be very infrequent. I suppose if it is really dialed in right the ideal would be to have zero interaction, but then it would have to read my mind ;)
 
It seems like the difference between the $200 dimmer I linked to and the RRD6CLWH is that the latter is not wireless. Since I'm installing these as a remodel rather than retrofitting I don't really need the wireless, right? I'm still struggling to make sense of the points Pete was making about switches (a bit over my head) but will this dimmer address all those HV/LV issues?
 
For me the benefit of Sonos is that it is compatible with just about every streaming music service out there. It's the only one that works with Google Play Music (which is almost exclusively what I use) and I won't be surprised if they are the first to integrate the newly launched Amazon Prime Music. A comment was made earlier about how expensive Sonos is but I don't see it that way. I'm just going to plug a Sonos into my audio distribution and then control it from the Sonos app. My RTI guy said he might even be able to integrate Sonos controls into the RTI control via an iframe (so I don't have to resort to the app). My Control4 guy throws Sonos in to any system he installs at "no charge."
 
dgage said:
I don't feel the learning curve is too high. Part of it is that I'm working on a kitchen remodel and until I'm done, which should be soon, I haven't worried about interfaces. Part of it is being busy and another part of it was some of the things I wanted to use weren't supported at the time with CQC. Since then Dean has added support for some things I wanted such as RadioRa2 thermostats and I have the thermostats in the box...just as soon as I get time to implement them. Still other items aren't yet supported in CQC. Several of us are waiting on a particular wireless irrigation controller to be supported and Dean has been trying to get the company to send him the API. I expect that will be forthcoming soon after 4.5 is released, which should be soon. I can't speak for Dean but it looks like it is in final beta so it should be soon, very soon. Regarding drivers, Dean seems to build drivers if a large contingent of people want a certain device supported. If it is more of a one-off driver, Dean or some other users can build custom drivers for a nominal fee (drivers rolls into CQC offering). Dean is pretty impressive. He seems to have a tremendous work-ethic and is very open about his work and plans. He has my utmost respect.Sorry, I did indeed see your question but got busy/forgot to answer. If you want ceiling speakers then I would recommend running the wire for them and centrally locating the amplifier/controller. But the days of "needing" a hard-wired controller in every room is somewhat disappearing. I use Sonos and while it isn't perfect for Whole Home Audio, their software is really good. I can control any Sonos (some Play5s, some ceiling speakers with non-Sonos subs) in the house with any computer, tablet, or phone (iOS, Android, WP8, etc.). Now if you want an intercomm, you'll need to hardwire that I would expect...and that cuts down on your whole home audio options based on what I remember seeing. I'm not familiar enough with the intercomm side but almost feel it might be better separate from the music.


By the way, related to motion lights for bathrooms and laundry rooms, I've switched some of them to an inexpensive Lutron motion switch. It works well, is reliable, and much cheaper than a RadioRa2 switch with RadioRa2 motion sensor. Also doesn't count towards my limit of 100/200 RadioRa2 devices. I don't do this for all rooms as some I want to have the nicer RadioRa2 motion setup but this works for small powder rooms that I don't care to automate. Oh, and I like that it still has a switch that can be turned off without having to wait the normal "no movement" time.

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Electronics-Ms-Ops2H-Wh-Maestro-Occupancy/dp/B0076KNP4K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1403836990&sr=8-4&keywords=lutron+motion
 
So if I want in wall/ceiling speakers your point wasn't that my audio can be totally wireless, just that I don't need to have amp/control in each room. The speakers still need to be wired back to my equipment closet.
 
Can you give me a link to the wireless irrigation system? I am very interested in this, I want an automated sprinkler control that will only turn the sprinklers on when the time, temperature and humidity are suitable. We have major drought issues here in CA and I do everything I can to minimize my water footprint.
 
Dean Roddey said:
Hmm.... I think you misread. There are third party Android and iOS clients already, and you can do all those things you want to do. They just have a couple limitations relative to the native Windows viewer.
 
The HTML5 client is something for the future, which might make those separate per-platform clients unnecessary.
 
OK, I will investigate. I found the Riva thread but it's a monster. I will read up and see how it compares to mobile apps for RTI and C4. I'm glad to see I misunderstood your previous post. But you didn't say if there is a way to receive alerts on my phone from CQC when events are triggered like doors opening. If this is possible, would it be through text messages, a notification from the mobile app, or both?
 
DELInstallations said:
@ Work,
 
Look up Comark. 100% compliant and designed to be mounted in a wall and have been part of the larger picture for almost 10 years. The larger question would be if the interface is "sexy" enough for most. They're a lot more durable than the Crestron/C4 units.
 
Are you talking about this? That's a full in-wall computer and as expensive as the RTI/C4 panels. True, this will give you the full CQC interface but not cheaply. It's too bad there aren't any in-wall mounts for Android devices as there are for iPads. Although you can also RDP from an iPad so that might be the way to go for CQC. Hmmm...
 
Meh, personally I don't like the in-wall touchscreens.  We used to call it 'gorilla arm' whenever touchscreens came up.  Big screens you have to stand in front of for any length of time longer than a typical light switch activation are uncomfortable to use.  You need forearms like a gorilla to have enough endurance to put up with using them.  Counter pedestals or removable tablets are a lot less uncomfortable.  
 
That and just because a small screen UI sucks doesn't mean a large one won't end up being WORSE.  
 
I definitely think that you should have at least one large real estate, wired network, non-battery powered screen somewhere in the main living area, where it can have always visible information that you can check quickly without having to find the phone and find an app and all that. For instance, something that can show your whole home security status in one screen with enough space to see it all.
 
Regular touch screens on a wall mount or recessed are an inexpensive way to get a really nice kiosk style touch screen. Then again, I'm in a contest with this aboriginal guy to be the last person on earth to own a smart phone.
 
On the notifications, CQC can send e-mails in response to whatever changes in device states you want, with whatever text in them you want.
 
I'm finding that it's not so easy to install everything so that it is integration-ready, then come back later and decide on the automation.
 
Most reasonable pieces (cost wise) of your new endeavor is the infrastructure.  Wire / chases are cheap.  Infrastructure post walls up can be very expensive and very WAF traumatic.
 
Pick a central wiring location in your home where everything is home run to.  If it doesn't fit connect two wiring closets.  One on the 2nd floor and one on the first floor and interconnect the two with chases.
 
Do the what if scenario for the sizing of the closet(s).  This part is the least invasive to your endeavor both relating to costs and labor. Wire for everything, then put in some chases for more stuff.  Think about outside of your home too for whatever.  I have corner property berms using LED landscaping lamps wired via chases put in way before the berms were in.
 
The touchscreen situation is really a thorn in my side too. Not just from a usability standpoint but from an aesthetic standpoint.
 
Wife is most happy with the 5.7" 4:3 and the 7-9" widescreen touchscreen aspect.  The "wow" factor and WAF wears thin after a bit such that screens are mostly off, showing art/pictures or just clocks.
 
I have gone a bit over to using POE capacitance small table touch tablets (everywhere lately).  Its one wire that provides Gb network connectivity and powers up the tablets.  It has a built in stand such that its not like a tablet in a cradle.
 
Recent endeavor was the installation of two nightstand tablet top touch tablets.  Each sits there and just looks like a little clock radio.  It does though do stuff and talks with its built in TTS.  I only had one catXX wire going to behind the nightstand and went to a little HP multiport intelligent in the wall box POE switch; amazing tiny device.  Its old and I didn't even though of their existence.  I do want to integrate the DECT phone stuff with them though giving them a bit more function.
 
Yup and an Android tablet is very reasonable in price but not made to hang on a wall yet.  But that is changing.  I do see now that aesthetically pleasing Android tablet cradle on a coffee table which does provide a "wow" factor.  A few months back did pick up a tablet while at a family get together to surf and chat.  It was sitting on the coffee table.  I got yelled at by my niece for invading her personal space of tablet privacy (I didn't know that the IPad was hers).  The IPad looked exactly like the other IPad on the coffee table.
 
I did once a few years back bring a thin footprint openframe touchscreen to an artist frame shop and asked for a custom frame. (didn't work too well).  I then just built my own; it was way cheaper anyways.
 
....will give completely unbiased advice and not charge an arm and a leg?
 
Yup that is difficult.  Personally that could be worth some $150-$250 per hour for some granular stuff.  That number is relative.  It is a new skill with newer standards.  That person has to know old school infrastructure and new school automation.  Not an easy mix there. 
 
IE: subcontracted a Business Objects guru for $250 an hour for 3 weeks a few years back..
 
points Pete was making about switches
Think of the switch as a little mini computer with intelligence today that fits inside of a space utilized by a mechanical $5.00 electrical switch.  Not so much the price relations to the mechanisms of transport; but rather the miniature marvel of the automated switch.  Well I guess similar to a little hand hand computer that you utilize as a cell phone.  Some new automated switches today have little touchscreens and are just virtual looking like a switch with a touchscreen picture of a switch and are Android based.  (no tactile feel).
 
Can you give me a link to the wireless irrigation system? I am very interested in this, I want an automated sprinkler control that will only turn the sprinklers on when the time, temperature and humidity are suitable. We have major drought issues here in CA and I do everything I can to minimize my water footprint.
 
Here its not really related to the "wireless" pieces as that too is just a means of transport.  You are looking for something (software) that is more than your basic timer.  Here the irrigation is based on Evapotranspiration (ET).
 
The software is connected to a weather station and a variety of sensors and means of control.  Control-Solenoids in the sprinkler manifold, water meter numbers and water flow switch.   IE: it quits watering if the wind goes above 5 MPH.
 
Its variables relate to the percentage of soil moisture calculated by the software using the hardware to come up with some ET numbers.  The software to hardware connectivity can be on the network, serially or wirelessly depending on your use of it.
 
I utilize a wireless keypad to test the zones and can utilize my cell phone for a manual intervention.  I use to the touchscreen to look at it.  Mostly just let it do its own thing these days.
 
There are also all inclusive combo firmware / wireless irrigation timers out there in internetlandia.  Mostly these are just timers using a rain sensor to stop the irrigation.
 
Relating to sound and personally here prefer the unobtrusive zoned amplifier hidden away in a closet and speakers in the wall; not so much seen but mostly heard. 
 
@Dean
 
Then again, I'm in a contest with this aboriginal guy to be the last person on earth to own a smart phone.
 
Here I auto forward the phone to the copper land line and leave it in the charging cradle in the "off" mode.  Never pay attention to any text messages except when I need to. (and I make it a point not to need to).  I don't walk around with the phone or take it to bed with me.  For a bit in the early 2000's I got tethered (assimilated); it wasn't a good feeling and mostly a distraction.
 
uscpsycho,
 
Don't take this the wrong way but it is clear you are getting stressed about getting things perfect as you are running out of time.  We understand and several of us have been there.  You've come to a DIY-focused forum where there are many options and it is your job to learn enough to pick the best solution for you.  Obviously there are some fantastic professionals on this board too but they've done many solutions as well, some that may or may not apply to you.  You will not learn everything you need to know in a week to put together your automation solution for your house...unless you drop everything else in your life...and even then I doubt you'd even be able to tell us what HA means to you.  The way I see it is you either hire one of the professionals that you like, maybe the one that likes Sonos as that shows they are open to alternative solutions.  Or you could focus on figuring out the wiring on the house to cover security, A/V, cameras, lighting, etc. and then worry about the final home automation solution later.
 
To reiterate, I think you have time to figure out the wiring but not the final solution.  If you want to figure out the solution now, you should hire a professional you trust.  That is my recommendation.
 
I use Sonos the same way as you and yes I was referring to not needing a control in every room as is traditional.
 
Several of us on CQC have purchased the IrrigationCaddy (http://www.irrigationcaddy.com), so that will become one of the defacto CQC irrigation controller drivers I would soon expect.  The driver hasn't been worked on yet but Dean has contacted the company to be allowed to use the API.
 
Monitor, tablet, small screen, it doesn't really matter.  I chose RadioRa2 because it had the little touches that I liked and made me happy.  I also like Elk because they have a little security keypad that can fit in a Decora space like a light switch.  If you like Control4 or Crestron, and you've found an installer you like, then you potentially have your solution.
 
High voltage is your electrical wiring.  Low voltage is speakers, network, cable wires, etc.  LV in terms of lighting would be a hard-wired lighting system such as Centralite Elegance among others.  Hard-wired lighting systems still use high voltage wires to the load but the controls are all low voltage tied back to a central control board.  Think of it like your speaker wire all tied back to a central point and you amplify a single speaker or room when you tell it too.  The lighting is the same way in that you tell the central lighting controller which load to turn on.  This is obviously not how most homes (99.99%) are wired.  Switching back to how most do HA lighting, you go with a solutions such as RadioRa2, UPB, Insteon, Zwave, Zigbee, etc. you just replace a normal switch with an HA switch and you have the ability to control your lights with a controller or software.  Some of RadioRa2, UPB, Insteon, Zwave, Zigbee, use a communication protocol through the electrical wire (UPB) and some through the air with radio waves (RRa2, Zw, Zig) or a combo of the two (latest Insteon).
 
I don't care what solution you come up with, Crestron, Control4, HAI, Elk, CQC, RadioRa2...there will absolutely be things they won't do the way you want or expect...the key is being able to live with the shortcomings or have the means to work around them.  There is no PERFECT solution...not even close.  As a matter of fact, you likely will need to temper some of your desires or requirements as home automation is not about technology.  I come from the technology field and I thought home automation would be focused on the latest greatest.  Nope, nada.  Home automation is focused on reliability, which means, time-tested solutions.  It took me a while to learn that and I was quite frustrated for a bit.  After I got it through my thick skull that HA is not cutting-edge, I've done better. 
 
Good luck on whatever you choose.
 
I disagree on using a static display for status.  There shouldn't be an annunciator-like panel in a residential setting.  It's ugly.  That and constantly displayed screens get ignored.  Sure, you want to have overviews, but I'd argue that shouldn't be the default information appearing on the screen.  
 
This is perhaps fodder for another thread.  But the way instrumentation is displayed is pretty screwed up, across the board.  
 
You can do some very sexy looking security status screens, but I wasn't really implying that that's what it would be displaying all the time, it would be for general use, and have all of the functionality the other clients would have. It's just that it has enough screen real estate to really display those types of nice 'security status over a home layout' type of thing, which can be very impressive looking.
 
Thanks DEL - I'll take a look. 
 
For the OP - if you have places where you know you'll put a touchscreen, just put a gang box there and ensure you have power nearby should you need it, along with 1-2 Cat5/6 and some 18/4 and there's nothing you won't be able to put there now or in the future.
 
For HDMI if there's room and the distances aren't far, of course go with an HDMI cable - my point though was that the extenders also do work very well should you need that route. 
 
For control, I really do like the inductive ipad mounts - I wish someone would make one for the Kindle Fire - and of course the right apps to make good use of it.  But, I like the small in-wall touchscreens too if they can be an all-in-one to control a light scene, intercom, and a way to change your Pandora station.
 
I think the single biggest decision to be made right now is if you want a system that you can work on or if you want to be totally locked out of it?  Once that's decided, then you can start working through the other items.
 
Curious where are you at in the timeline of construction of your new home?
 
Have you set aside a budget for automation?
 
Are you doing anything in particular with HVAC?  (zoned?)
 
Attached is a picture of my Irrigation DIY.  Today the software / computer is just a modified Seagate Dockstar (PogoPlug) running the software off a USB stick.  Its been a few years now and I have put a bit much inside of the sprinkler box relating to automation stuff in general. Using irrigation software worked way better than the originally installed Rainbird ESP sprinkler controller.  The sprinkler box is in the garage.  The control wires travel about 150-200 feet to the sprinkler manifold box on the other side of the house.  The RFID device tracks the automobiles in the garage providing live status of what cars are in the garage.
 
Audio today in the garage is just another audio zone from the Russound.  I did build a small little "golf" center on the other side with multimedia (well and TV) but I never really watch TV there.  It was just to see if I could do it more than anything else.
 
Most of the work related to water and a sink rather than the low voltage stuff there.
 
Note many forum users have done similar in their DIY automation efforts.
 
SprinklerDIY.jpg
 
Anyway, I am looking to put a home automation system in along with a home theater.
 
The home theater endeavor is unique and depends on what exactly you are looking to do with it.
 
Start here too with the infrastructure of sight and sound. 
 
The lighting integration is easy stuff.  The remote stuff is just that. 
 
Have a look here for some ideas relating to design and costs.
 
http://www.cepro.com/topic/tag/home_theater
 
pete_c said:
Most reasonable pieces (cost wise) of your new endeavor is the infrastructure.  Wire / chases are cheap.  Infrastructure post walls up can be very expensive and very WAF traumatic.
 
Pick a central wiring location in your home where everything is home run to.  If it doesn't fit connect two wiring closets.  One on the 2nd floor and one on the first floor and interconnect the two with chases.
 
Do the what if scenario for the sizing of the closet(s).  This part is the least invasive to your endeavor both relating to costs and labor. Wire for everything, then put in some chases for more stuff.  Think about outside of your home too for whatever.  I have corner property berms using LED landscaping lamps wired via chases put in way before the berms were in.
 
 
Wife is most happy with the 5.7" 4:3 and the 7-9" widescreen touchscreen aspect.  The "wow" factor and WAF wears thin after a bit such that screens are mostly off, showing art/pictures or just clocks.
 
I have gone a bit over to using POE capacitance small table touch tablets (everywhere lately).  Its one wire that provides Gb network connectivity and powers up the tablets.  It has a built in stand such that its not like a tablet in a cradle.
 
Recent endeavor was the installation of two nightstand tablet top touch tablets.  Each sits there and just looks like a little clock radio.  It does though do stuff and talks with its built in TTS.  I only had one catXX wire going to behind the nightstand and went to a little HP multiport intelligent in the wall box POE switch; amazing tiny device.  Its old and I didn't even though of their existence.  I do want to integrate the DECT phone stuff with them though giving them a bit more function.
 
I'm starting to get the feeling that just about the only thing I need to do right now is prewire for speakers, TV's, and touchscreens. Run cat cable to everywhere I can dream of. And install the alarm, security cameras and Lutron. Stupid question but for irrigation control do I need to prewire for that?
 
Can you share a link to information about the POE capacitance tablets? Are these running Android? Not sure how else they could work with your DIY system.
 
dgage said:
uscpsycho,
 
Don't take this the wrong way but it is clear you are getting stressed about getting things perfect as you are running out of time.  We understand and several of us have been there.  You've come to a DIY-focused forum where there are many options and it is your job to learn enough to pick the best solution for you.  Obviously there are some fantastic professionals on this board too but they've done many solutions as well, some that may or may not apply to you.  You will not learn everything you need to know in a week to put together your automation solution for your house...unless you drop everything else in your life...and even then I doubt you'd even be able to tell us what HA means to you.  The way I see it is you either hire one of the professionals that you like, maybe the one that likes Sonos as that shows they are open to alternative solutions.  Or you could focus on figuring out the wiring on the house to cover security, A/V, cameras, lighting, etc. and then worry about the final home automation solution later.
 
To reiterate, I think you have time to figure out the wiring but not the final solution.  If you want to figure out the solution now, you should hire a professional you trust.  That is my recommendation.
 
I use Sonos the same way as you and yes I was referring to not needing a control in every room as is traditional.
 
Several of us on CQC have purchased the IrrigationCaddy (http://www.irrigationcaddy.com), so that will become one of the defacto CQC irrigation controller drivers I would soon expect.  The driver hasn't been worked on yet but Dean has contacted the company to be allowed to use the API.
 
Monitor, tablet, small screen, it doesn't really matter.  I chose RadioRa2 because it had the little touches that I liked and made me happy.  I also like Elk because they have a little security keypad that can fit in a Decora space like a light switch.  If you like Control4 or Crestron, and you've found an installer you like, then you potentially have your solution.
 
High voltage is your electrical wiring.  Low voltage is speakers, network, cable wires, etc.  LV in terms of lighting would be a hard-wired lighting system such as Centralite Elegance among others.  Hard-wired lighting systems still use high voltage wires to the load but the controls are all low voltage tied back to a central control board.  Think of it like your speaker wire all tied back to a central point and you amplify a single speaker or room when you tell it too.  The lighting is the same way in that you tell the central lighting controller which load to turn on.  This is obviously not how most homes (99.99%) are wired.  Switching back to how most do HA lighting, you go with a solutions such as RadioRa2, UPB, Insteon, Zwave, Zigbee, etc. you just replace a normal switch with an HA switch and you have the ability to control your lights with a controller or software.  Some of RadioRa2, UPB, Insteon, Zwave, Zigbee, use a communication protocol through the electrical wire (UPB) and some through the air with radio waves (RRa2, Zw, Zig) or a combo of the two (latest Insteon).
 
I don't care what solution you come up with, Crestron, Control4, HAI, Elk, CQC, RadioRa2...there will absolutely be things they won't do the way you want or expect...the key is being able to live with the shortcomings or have the means to work around them.  There is no PERFECT solution...not even close.  As a matter of fact, you likely will need to temper some of your desires or requirements as home automation is not about technology.  I come from the technology field and I thought home automation would be focused on the latest greatest.  Nope, nada.  Home automation is focused on reliability, which means, time-tested solutions.  It took me a while to learn that and I was quite frustrated for a bit.  After I got it through my thick skull that HA is not cutting-edge, I've done better. 
 
Good luck on whatever you choose.
 
I didn't give myself a week to learn everything I need to know. In fact I started this thread exactly three months ago today. And I started researching well before starting this thread or discovering the website. The "paralysis by analysis" is what led me here. And I really appreciate how patient, informative and helpful people have been. And not just to me, this thread covering so many things is really expanding the knowledge base on the Internet. I'm sure lots of people in my shoes are going to come across this thread and try to absorb everything that's been said. If you google "lutron cqc control4 crestron decision" or "lutron cqc control4 crestron help me decide" (and I'm sure lots of other search terms) this thread is already the second result. 
 
There is a wealth of knowledge crammed into this thread that is going to help people for a long time.
 
 
Work2Play said:
Thanks DEL - I'll take a look. 
 
For the OP - if you have places where you know you'll put a touchscreen, just put a gang box there and ensure you have power nearby should you need it, along with 1-2 Cat5/6 and some 18/4 and there's nothing you won't be able to put there now or in the future.
 
For HDMI if there's room and the distances aren't far, of course go with an HDMI cable - my point though was that the extenders also do work very well should you need that route. 
 
For control, I really do like the inductive ipad mounts - I wish someone would make one for the Kindle Fire - and of course the right apps to make good use of it.  But, I like the small in-wall touchscreens too if they can be an all-in-one to control a light scene, intercom, and a way to change your Pandora station.
 
I think the single biggest decision to be made right now is if you want a system that you can work on or if you want to be totally locked out of it?  Once that's decided, then you can start working through the other items.
 
You're referring to in-wall touchscreens for C4/RTI/Crestron, right? Unless they're Android this doesn't exist in the DIY world, correct?
 
I very much want a system that I can work on. I think. Problem is I don't know how much I'll actually work on it in practice. As a techie, I can't tell you how many hours I've spent on projects that I thought were really cool at the time but then NEVER ended up using again after I got it working. Maybe it will be the same way with my HA, maybe once I have everything dialed in just right I'll never want to mess with it again. In that case I'm better off just hiring someone to do RTI or C4 and get it over with. But I see that a lot of you are constantly tweaking so that leads me to think I'll want to do the same. But who knows... I wish my first (and potentially last) time going through this HA dance wasn't such a big project.
 
 
pete_c said:
Curious where are you at in the timeline of construction of your new home?
 
Have you set aside a budget for automation?
 
Are you doing anything in particular with HVAC?  (zoned?)
 
Attached is a picture of my Irrigation DIY.  Today the software / computer is just a modified Seagate Dockstar (PogoPlug) running the software off a USB stick.  Its been a few years now and I have put a bit much inside of the sprinkler box relating to automation stuff in general. Using irrigation software worked way better than the originally installed Rainbird ESP sprinkler controller.  The sprinkler box is in the garage.  The control wires travel about 150-200 feet to the sprinkler manifold box on the other side of the house.  The RFID device tracks the automobiles in the garage providing live status of what cars are in the garage.
 
Audio today in the garage is just another audio zone from the Russound.  I did build a small little "golf" center on the other side with multimedia (well and TV) but I never really watch TV there.  It was just to see if I could do it more than anything else.
 
Most of the work related to water and a sink rather than the low voltage stuff there.
 
Note many forum users have done similar in their DIY automation efforts.
 
attachicon.gif
SprinklerDIY.jpg
 
 
The home theater endeavor is unique and depends on what exactly you are looking to do with it.
 
Start here too with the infrastructure of sight and sound. 
 
The lighting integration is easy stuff.  The remote stuff is just that. 
 
Have a look here for some ideas relating to design and costs.
 
http://www.cepro.com/topic/tag/home_theater
 
It's not a new construction. The house is built. There is going to be a little construction but I'm doing a complete whole-home renovation. We're waiting on permits right now for the changes I am going to make but once the ball is rolling I will have a small window to tear up the walls and ceiling to my heart's content. Everything has to go in at this time and I have to be ready to go when my contractor says go. 
 
I don't have a budget per say for the automation. There is one budget for the entire project and I can move funds around as needed. The automation is one area that I'm trying not to make any compromises on because it's so much harder to go back and add things I didn't plan for now.
 
Yes, I absolutely want HVAC controlled by the automation and there will be two zones.
 
Your sprinkler DIY is way over the head of anything I can do. That would not be DIY for me. Anything that involves electrical wiring for the house is out of my comfort zone. My idea of DIY is anything I can do with a keyboard or plugging things together. I've gotten my AV stuff to do some really creative stuff that it probably was never intended to do. I actually hacked my first HD DirecTV TiVo to act as a server so I could download anything from the hard drive to my computer in HD. This was way before Blu-ray so it was the only way to get HD movies onto a computer. Huge complicated project with a high risk of permanently bricking a very expensive DVR. Once I got it done I don't think I ever actually bothered to copy anything from the DVR. Another one of those projects that sounded good but never got put to use. 
 
As for the home theater, I've made a lot more progress there. I had my mind made up on pretty much everything until all this Dolby Atmos stuff started cropping up and now I'm trying to decide how much I should let that future prospect influence the decisions I make today. The kind folks at AVS Forum have been very helpful on that front. However, as you might be able to tell AV is much more in my wheelhouse than HA so there isn't nearly as much for me to learn there. This will be my first dedicated theater (a dream come true) so my questions are mostly about figuring out the best speakers and speaker placement for my setup. But here again, every HT professional wants to sell me on what HE wants to install and quite honestly a lot of these guys just slap stuff into the wall, they don't really care about performance because most of their customers can't tell the difference between good and bad. Fortunately when they are feeding me BS I know better, I'm much more confident with my decisions in the theater.
 
uscpsycho,
 
Thanks for not taking my post negatively as that definitely wasn't the spirit of my post.  We really do seem pretty similar in capabilities, research styles, HT hobby, etc.  Your personality seems similar to mine as I like to have some control but don't necessarily want to be dealing with this every day, which is why I haven't gone crazy with the home automation.  I automate what I feel needs it and while I have more plans, I'm taking a relaxed focus that I will automate pieces as I feel the need, thereby prioritizing what needs to be done.  Much less stress that way although I was stressed and put pressure on myself to pick the lighting solution (RadioRa2) and controller software (CQC).
 
By the way, I'll be using the Lutron seeTemp HVAC controller for my house.  I just need to install my two controllers.  And CQC has support for it.
 
The irrigation controllers are designed to replace traditional controllers although it is better if the wiring for the irrigation valves is on the inside of the house like a garage.  People install the wifi irrigation controllers outdoors in weather proof boxes but many of the fancy, wifi/computerized irrigation controller companies say the controller should be installed indoors.  So assuming you have good wifi and power, a wifi irrigation controller like IrrigationCaddy should be a drop-in replacement for an old, dumb irrigation controller.  So I really wouldn't waste any more brain power on that right now as I don't think its necessary.  By the way, you could use the Elk or HAI security/automation controller as it can control relays, which is all the controller for an irrigation valve is - a collection of relays to turn on/off.  But I would rather use something like the IrrigationCaddy that has some logic built-in like a master valve/pump that has to be turned on when turning on any valve station.
 
Oh yeah, I learned right here on Cocoontech that a very good, inexpensive, long-range wifi is any of the ones by Ubiquiti (you can get on Amazon).  The software isn't the greatest for the homeowner (designed for enterprise) but the hardware is awesome.  Completely blew away my previous top of the line Netgear wifi router.
 
If you want to bring some of the HT talk here, you could continue to share info with the Internet.  I'm on AVS quite a bit, I have a 7.1 JTR speaker set and 3 DIY LMS 5400 subwoofers powered by SpeakerPower amps.  Pretty damn awesome setup but I need to do more on the treatments and dialing in my system with REW and a MiniDSP NanoAVR.  I'd be interested to know what your thinking on the HT side too.
 
David
 
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