Special Brultech ECM-1220.H offer to cocoontech members.

[123]

It uses our new packet format ... It is not posted anywhere right now but if you email me I can send it to you.

May I suggest you post the packet format here ... it will be eagerly reviewed by us.

The coding example you provided is appreciated but you should know that the folks who are using Home Automation (HA) software simply need the ECM-1220's protocol in order to create appropriate drivers. Most HA apps contain "Generic Serial Drivers" that can be customized to communicate with most anything over RS-232. Armed with a device's serial protocol, HA users have written drivers to talk to security panels, weather stations, alphanumeric displays, Audio/Video equipment, etc.

BTW, this relationship is a two-way street. The discounts provided to Cocooners will provide you with valuable feedback from technically savvy people. Although I can't guarantee everyone will write an ECM-1220 driver, chances are good you'll be able to advertize "drivers exist for several Home Automation programs". All without breaking your R&D budget!

 

[BDHall]

BtechRep,

Thanks for taking the time to answer our questions.

Brian

 

[IVB]

Ditto, thanks for answering everything.

 

[RobWalker]

You could monitor the total panel on one channel and both heaters on the others. Since
the heaters have no neutral, the current on each leg is equal and you can use a single
CT, then do the same for the other heater. You would then have both heaters monitored
together on the second channel.

Great -- that is perfect. I'm sold

I still need a final electrical inspection on the panel, so I'll wait until the labeling is sorted out to avoid any surprises.

Thanks for the excellent pre-customer service!

 

[Digger]

So we can get teh special setup to use two Current Taps in a "Y" configuration for Channel 1 to montior the whole house and a third current tap on channel 2 for monitoring an individual branch circuit.

If my assumption is correct this is a VERY useful feature as you can really track down energy usage/waste easily.

If this is correct I am buying one tonight

I hope that there is a plug in for Homeseer or Powerhome or an interface for the ISY series shortly.

 

[DeLicious]

i see you offer a CT extender as well... you mentioned earlier the CT's were extendable by CAT5? if the CT extender is required, how many can we string together?

since my electrical panel is outside, i'll need an extension of the CT to reach from an inside outlet to the outside panel. i was hoping to extend it about 50 ft up to my office so the usb wouldn't need the extension.

 

[jharrell]

i see you offer a CT extender as well... you mentioned earlier the CT's were extendable by CAT5? if the CT extender is required, how many can we string together?

since my electrical panel is outside, i'll need an extension of the CT to reach from an inside outlet to the outside panel. i was hoping to extend it about 50 ft up to my office so the usb wouldn't need the extension.

From their FAQ I don't believe you have to use the extenders, the just simply sell ones that have plugs on them, but you can just splice the wires together with cat5 instead:

8. What is the maximum permitted length of wire between the Monitor Unit and the Current Transformers?

Because of its low impedance balanced inputs, the ECM-1220 CTs may be extended up to 100 ft successfully using CAT 5 cable. The acceptable range may be greater. It just has not been tested at any length greater than 100 ft.

 

[Digger]

i see you offer a CT extender as well... you mentioned earlier the CT's were extendable by CAT5? if the CT extender is required, how many can we string together?

since my electrical panel is outside, i'll need an extension of the CT to reach from an inside outlet to the outside panel. i was hoping to extend it about 50 ft up to my office so the usb wouldn't need the extension.

From their FAQ I don't believe you have to use the extenders, the just simply sell ones that have plugs on them, but you can just splice the wires together with cat5 instead:

8. What is the maximum permitted length of wire between the Monitor Unit and the Current Transformers?

Because of its low impedance balanced inputs, the ECM-1220 CTs may be extended up to 100 ft successfully using CAT 5 cable. The acceptable range may be greater. It just has not been tested at any length greater than 100 ft.

Just remember to use the wire that they provide with the CT while inside the breaker panel as I am sure that the wire is rated appropiately for that application.

I am about ready to order one of these myself I just want to figure out the logistics of everything to make sure I get what I really need. I want the interface in the house where people can see it.

 

[mdonovan]

So is there an free SDK for those of us that would want to use a more main stream software package such as HomeSeer for monitoring this hardware?

There are protocol documents and some vb source code (not vb.net, old vb) that Paul sent me when I asked for them. They are not on the web site. I asked for them because I write my own software and I wanted to see how difficult the protocol was before I bought the unit. That's an important part of any product evaluation for me.

The protocol is pretty simple to use and it only took me a week or so to create a .net assembly to communicate with the unit, and a xAP assembly to broadcast the state. Since I don't have a unit yet these are totally untested, but the point is the protocol is pretty easy to use.

He mentioned another packet type (that would make 3) that has additional information for use with solar/wind systems, but that's not in the documentation currently. I look forward to this info being added. I'll probably buy a unit once I see the cocoontech special tomorrow.

I see some features that do not appear to be in the protocol that I would like, but I'll wait to get one and actually use the protocol before I start whining (errr... expressing interest in) these missing items.

Matt

Mat, We have some sample vb.net code which communicates with the ECM-1220 and displays

the variables. It uses our new packet format the new firmware for this is posted on our

site. It is not posted anywhere right now but if you email me I can send it to you.

The source for this code was taken from here and we made a few changes :

http://www.codeworks.it/net/VBNetRs232.htm (thanks to Corrado Cavalli's for the fine

vb.net serial communication demo)

OK Mat, what is missing that you would like to see? Power Factor? Apparent Power?

Ok... you asked

The things I didn't see are a way to determine which real time packet format (Power, Energy, or the new one) is being sent, and also how to set the format. In my code I wait for a specific number of characters in the buffer, so I need a way to determine how many chars to wait for. Right now I just hardcoded it for Energy mode. I would also like to see the structure for the third packet mode.

I didn't see a way to set the storage interval for the downloaded data either. I can get it during the download data process, but how can I set it. A separate command to get the interval would be nice but not really necessary.

The reset command isn't in the documentation, but I used the sample code to add that to my code.

The storage interval is 1 to 255, and it's returned as 2 bytes. Are they 7 bit bytes and I ignore the high bit, or do I ignore one of the bytes? This I figured I would figure out once I had a unit.

I also wasn't clear on how to figure out the date and time of a downloaded record. The docs say:

The data-logger’s “data” information is sent out as one big block in step 5 above. To assemble this data,
two pieces of information are required:
1. The start time and date of monitoring.
2. The storage interval
Since the ECM-1220 does not have a real-time clock, a time and date has to be provided for the beginning
of the monitoring at which time the ECM was reset. The storage interval value is provided by the two bytes
received in step #3 above.

I'm not understanding this. What are the steps I need to do?

I figured using the code with a real unit would clarify some of my questions.

 

[dBeau]

The things I didn't see are a way to determine which real time packet format (Power, Energy, or the new one) is being sent, and also how to set the format. In my code I wait for a specific number of characters in the buffer, so I need a way to determine how many chars to wait for. Right now I just hardcoded it for Energy mode. I would also like to see the structure for the third packet mode.

I didn't see a way to set the storage interval for the downloaded data either. I can get it during the download data process, but how can I set it. A separate command to get the interval would be nice but not really necessary.

The reset command isn't in the documentation, but I used the sample code to add that to my code.

The storage interval is 1 to 255, and it's returned as 2 bytes. Are they 7 bit bytes and I ignore the high bit, or do I ignore one of the bytes? This I figured I would figure out once I had a unit.

I also wasn't clear on how to figure out the date and time of a downloaded record. The docs say:

The data-logger’s “data” information is sent out as one big block in step 5 above. To assemble this data,
two pieces of information are required:
1. The start time and date of monitoring.
2. The storage interval
Since the ECM-1220 does not have a real-time clock, a time and date has to be provided for the beginning
of the monitoring at which time the ECM was reset. The storage interval value is provided by the two bytes
received in step #3 above.

After writing my code, I had nearly the same question. I'm happy to see them asked and am looking forward to the answers.

Now, I havnt tried this yet, but I suspect that with the download format, you can come close to computing the start time by walking the samples backwards from the current time (+/- the sample rate). My guess is that it keeps the most recent N samples pushing the oldest out. I figured I'd get around to playing a bit more with the device, but found that simply grabbing the real time data is good enough. Of course if my server went down I'd lose data that could mostly be recovered by the download. If history teaches me anything, my server will have to crash about three times before I start to care. So at the current rate of crashes.... it will be a couple of years before I get around to it

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Just remember to use the wire that they provide with the CT while inside the breaker panel as I am sure that the wire is rated appropriately for that application.

I know I'm a pretty conservative person but the popularity of this and the TED unit has me very concerned, mainly with the do-it-yourself 'er opening the breaker box back panel. I type this with mixed feelings as I also don't want to be labeled as an alarmist either.

Extreme caution must be taken when you expose live parts, especially when these parts are wired to a circuit/supply capable of over 100+ amps unfused. I have taken my panel off and was VERY nervous the entire time until I had it back in place.

What's worse with this situation is the proximity one has to install the current taps, right next to the input feed to the panel. I'm sure most people will not use an electrician for this part and install these components while the system is "live".

Just to give some normalization to this scenario, let me explain how this situation would be handled in our workplace.

1. First, in order to perform "live work" you need a line level manager's approval. This is usually three to four clicks above an immediate supervisory level.

2. You need solid justification(s) that the work needs to be performed live. Not feeling like going through the motions to have power removed would not qualify.

3. You need to have isolated rated tools and insulating (approved for this type of work) gloves, plus a face shield and long sleeve cotton shirt.

4. You of course need to be trained/certified.

5. You must have an observer who is at least CPR certified.

6. You must have a detailed listing of the procedures, and those need to be approved by electrical safety professionals.

I'm not an electrical safety professional, but I have attended classes taught by national laboratory experts in this field.

After stating all of this, would I install the current taps myself without removing the main house power feed? Well, to be honest, probably yes, but I would:

Try to at least obtain the proper insulating gloves and wear (the larger type) safety glasses.

Have an observer nearby during this process.

Use caution when removing the panel. Make sure all mounting screws are removed and the panel will come off "straight" (i.e. without being tilted into the exposed feed studs at the top).

Make certain that the CT's are installed so they will not contact any exposed components. Also insure they will not "slip" down the cable over time towards exposed components.

Run any wiring away from exposed components (don't lay any wiring across a live piece of the main feed bus).

I would also welcome any of our residential electrical code expert's comments on running monitor type wiring from the breaker panel to an external low voltage device.

Again, I hope our members take this post with the spirit of which it is intended and that is for the DIY to know the cautions that this type of installation demands.

 

[Digger]

Nicely said BSR.

I actually get a pain in my gut when I see a DIY loading a breaker panel in their cart at Lowes or Home Depot. Its usually kind of obvious when the wife is telling the husband which one to get based on the look of the door etc.

As a Compliance Engineer with over 12 years of experience at UL and several years elsewhere working for an electrician I am comfortable doing this type of work. I do NOT recommend that someone with little or no experience working on a breaker panel try this no matter how easy it seems (it is only easy if you know how to do it safely and correctly and live through it). I recommend that the DIY hire someone to play it safe.

 

[Dean Roddey]

Nicely said BSR.

I actually get a pain in my gut when I see a DIY loading a breaker panel in their cart at Lowes or Home Depot. Its usually kind of obvious when the wife is telling the husband which one to get based on the look of the door etc.

As a Compliance Engineer with over 12 years of experience at UL and several years elsewhere working for an electrician I am comfortable doing this type of work. I do NOT recommend that someone with little or no experience working on a breaker panel try this no matter how easy it seems (it is only easy if you know how to do it safely and correctly and live through it). I recommend that the DIY hire someone to play it safe.

Kind of has me thinking of that flooded basement scene in Fight Club

 

[123]

BSR, wise words indeed. The electrical mains is a beast that lives according to the laws of physics ... provide it with a convenient path to ground and it will follow it without hesitation ... there's no reasoning with it and no second chances.

My curiousity has been satisfied; my electrical bill shows me my periodic consumption and I already know who the big consumers are (pool pump and AC in the summer, furnace fan in the winter). I borrowed my friend's Kill-A-Watt to learn about individual devices and that was enough information for me. But, that's me.

The only advice I can add is this: whenever I've worked in the breaker box with the mains on, I never put two hands in there. If I'm going to short anything, it'll be through my fingers and not from one hand to another through my chest. Obviously the pros can't afford the time to work like this but it forces DIYers to take their time and be extra careful.

Don't even bother asking why I didn't shut off the mains ...

 

[Btech]

Just remember to use the wire that they provide with the CT while inside the breaker panel as I am sure that the wire is rated appropriately for that application.

I know I'm a pretty conservative person but the popularity of this and the TED unit has me very concerned, mainly with the do-it-yourself 'er opening the breaker box back panel. I type this with mixed feelings as I also don't want to be labeled as an alarmist either.

Extreme caution must be taken when you expose live parts, especially when these parts are wired to a circuit/supply capable of over 100+ amps unfused. I have taken my panel off and was VERY nervous the entire time until I had it back in place.

What's worse with this situation is the proximity one has to install the current taps, right next to the input feed to the panel. I'm sure most people will not use an electrician for this part and install these components while the system is "live".

Just to give some normalization to this scenario, let me explain how this situation would be handled in our workplace.

1. First, in order to perform "live work" you need a line level manager's approval. This is usually three to four clicks above an immediate supervisory level.

2. You need solid justification(s) that the work needs to be performed live. Not feeling like going through the motions to have power removed would not qualify.

3. You need to have isolated rated tools and insulating (approved for this type of work) gloves, plus a face shield and long sleeve cotton shirt.

4. You of course need to be trained/certified.

5. You must have an observer who is at least CPR certified.

6. You must have a detailed listing of the procedures, and those need to be approved by electrical safety professionals.

I'm not an electrical safety professional, but I have attended classes taught by national laboratory experts in this field.

After stating all of this, would I install the current taps myself without removing the main house power feed? Well, to be honest, probably yes, but I would:

Try to at least obtain the proper insulating gloves and wear (the larger type) safety glasses.

Have an observer nearby during this process.

Use caution when removing the panel. Make sure all mounting screws are removed and the panel will come off "straight" (i.e. without being tilted into the exposed feed studs at the top).

Make certain that the CT's are installed so they will not contact any exposed components. Also insure they will not "slip" down the cable over time towards exposed components.

Run any wiring away from exposed components (don't lay any wiring across a live piece of the main feed bus).

I would also welcome any of our residential electrical code expert's comments on running monitor type wiring from the breaker panel to an external low voltage device.

Again, I hope our members take this post with the spirit of which it is intended and that is for the DIY to know the cautions that this type of installation demands.

Thank you so much for posting this.

Our instruction manual and documentation stresses the importance that the CTs must be installed by a qualified individual using proper safety equipment and complying to the local electrical codes. The last thing we want to see is someone to get injured. The CTs are very easy for an electrician to install. Nothing requires any connection, simply snapping each CTs on the two main-lines. Call around or ask around, you can probably get an electrician to do it for cheap if he/she understands what is involved. Again, a certified electrician will make sure it is installed according to local electrical code.

The CT cables are 300V UL rated and must exit the panel before connecting. Once this is done the user can easily complete the installation. Everything from this point on is electrically isolated from the line voltage and safe, low voltage.

Again, Thank you so much for posting something I should have posted earlier.