Special Brultech ECM-1220.H offer to cocoontech members.

[Btech]

So is there an free SDK for those of us that would want to use a more main stream software package such as HomeSeer for monitoring this hardware?

There are protocol documents and some vb source code (not vb.net, old vb) that Paul sent me when I asked for them. They are not on the web site. I asked for them because I write my own software and I wanted to see how difficult the protocol was before I bought the unit. That's an important part of any product evaluation for me.

The protocol is pretty simple to use and it only took me a week or so to create a .net assembly to communicate with the unit, and a xAP assembly to broadcast the state. Since I don't have a unit yet these are totally untested, but the point is the protocol is pretty easy to use.

He mentioned another packet type (that would make 3) that has additional information for use with solar/wind systems, but that's not in the documentation currently. I look forward to this info being added. I'll probably buy a unit once I see the cocoontech special tomorrow.

I see some features that do not appear to be in the protocol that I would like, but I'll wait to get one and actually use the protocol before I start whining (errr... expressing interest in) these missing items.

Matt

Mat, We have some sample vb.net code which communicates with the ECM-1220 and displays

the variables. It uses our new packet format the new firmware for this is posted on our

site. It is not posted anywhere right now but if you email me I can send it to you.

The source for this code was taken from here and we made a few changes :

http://www.codeworks.it/net/VBNetRs232.htm (thanks to Corrado Cavalli's for the fine

vb.net serial communication demo)

OK Mat, what is missing that you would like to see? Power Factor? Apparent Power?

Ok... you asked

The things I didn't see are a way to determine which real time packet format (Power, Energy, or the new one) is being sent, and also how to set the format. In my code I wait for a specific number of characters in the buffer, so I need a way to determine how many chars to wait for. Right now I just hardcoded it for Energy mode. I would also like to see the structure for the third packet mode.

I didn't see a way to set the storage interval for the downloaded data either. I can get it during the download data process, but how can I set it. A separate command to get the interval would be nice but not really necessary.

The reset command isn't in the documentation, but I used the sample code to add that to my code.

The storage interval is 1 to 255, and it's returned as 2 bytes. Are they 7 bit bytes and I ignore the high bit, or do I ignore one of the bytes? This I figured I would figure out once I had a unit.

I also wasn't clear on how to figure out the date and time of a downloaded record. The docs say:

The data-logger’s “data” information is sent out as one big block in step 5 above. To assemble this data,
two pieces of information are required:
1. The start time and date of monitoring.
2. The storage interval
Since the ECM-1220 does not have a real-time clock, a time and date has to be provided for the beginning
of the monitoring at which time the ECM was reset. The storage interval value is provided by the two bytes
received in step #3 above.

I'm not understanding this. What are the steps I need to do?

I figured using the code with a real unit would clarify some of my questions.

Matt,

Thanks for your response. I will make this brief since I'm about to leave for an appointment.

There are codes to change the the interval time and unit settings (including reset). Also I can flowchart the methods reading the packets.

I will clarify all of this later and answer all of these questions when I get back. Thanks for pointing that out.


Paul

 

[IVB]

great post, BSR, i've been meaning to call an electrician anyhow to help with determining my 3way wiring as i'm lost, plus run a new line to the server room. I may as well have him do this too, since i'm entirely sketchy on this bit.

 

[beelzerob]

Ya, I hadn't looked forward to looking into the MAW of HELL....so I guess I'll be finding an electrician too. Sometimes, you find what $$$ really is good for!

I've got a pump that needs hardwiring in anyway...and maybe a spare outlet or 2 here or there.

 

[Steve]

While I don't have any special training or certifications, I have worked around alot of electricity and will tackle most projects, BUT, working in a live main panel scares the bejeebies out of me. I am lucky in that there is a main breaker by the meter which controls the feed to the main panel in the garage. So luckily I can simply shut off the breaker and I can freely and easily work in the main panel with it powered off. I would definitely recommend that anyone tackling this either find a way to turn the main power off or do call an electrician.

 

[beelzerob]

Well, I noticed my panel has a big main circuit breaker on it...is there a chance I can cut off power there? It doesn't seem like there's much room from the breaker to the breakers below, so maybe not enough for the CT's?

 

[DavidL]

The big breaker is very likely the main breaker that cuts of power to the smaller / lower breakers.

I assume that to gather data on your whole house, that the couplers need to be on the unprotected main leads ABOVE the main breaker. Typically the only way to kill power the them is to have the utility company pull the meter.

My guess is (without having looked) that the energy monitoring products have a "split core" sensor that clips around the Main Feeds. That would usually mean that they work with inductance and therefore the Main Feed doesn't need to be disconnected at all. But, the main feed will be HOT with power. There are no small mistakes that can be made....

Because no small mistakes are tolerated, if you don't KNOW, don't TRY.

BTW, if you are going to get an electrician in, it's a great time to put a whole house surge suppresor in at the same time. Will be worth it's weight in gold if your power gets zapped by lighting in saving all of your electronic toys.

 

[beelzerob]

BTW, if you are going to get an electrician in, it's a great time to put a whole house surge suppresor in at the same time. Will be worth it's weight in gold if your power gets zapped by lighting in saving all of your electronic toys.

Ya, that's the little box with the 2 green lights on the bottom right. As our house was being built, someone mentioned that a power surge had killed all their smart light switches, and I realized that was one thing that you could never put on a UPS/cheapo surge power strip! So I had them put that in.

Makes me wonder now how hard it would be to have the power company come turn off power for some specified time. I'm guessing that's going to cost a heck of a lot more than hiring an electrician.....

 

[will40]

BTW, if you are going to get an electrician in, it's a great time to put a whole house surge suppresor in at the same time. Will be worth it's weight in gold if your power gets zapped by lighting in saving all of your electronic toys.

Ya, that's the little box with the 2 green lights on the bottom right. As our house was being built, someone mentioned that a power surge had killed all their smart light switches, and I realized that was one thing that you could never put on a UPS/cheapo surge power strip! So I had them put that in.

Makes me wonder now how hard it would be to have the power company come turn off power for some specified time. I'm guessing that's going to cost a heck of a lot more than hiring an electrician.....

As an electrician I can tell you in most, if not all cases, you WILL need an electrician to apply for an electrical permit and a work order from POCO for meter un-plug. Utility companies will not re-install the meter without approval from local wiring inspector as work was performed on the breaker panel. Some municipalities allow the homeowner to pull the electrical permit and have the inspector approve, but coordinating the inspector and the poco on the same day and time can be frustrating....

It is easier to hire the electrician to snap the CT's on hot. Pair of gloves and appropriate PPE it's a snap (takes longer to remove and replace the panel cover)

Sad part is unless you have a sparky friend that you can throw a couple of beers and a burger at him, you will most likely pay $100+ for the local "low buck bob" residential electrical contractor.

Remember safety first!!

 

[WayneW]

Well, I noticed my panel has a big main circuit breaker on it...is there a chance I can cut off power there? It doesn't seem like there's much room from the breaker to the breakers below, so maybe not enough for the CT's?

Theoretically, you can install the CTs before or after the main disconnect. Unfortunately, in most panels I have seen, there are buss bars between the main disconnect and the circuit breakers. There bars are not the right size/shape for the CT to clamp around. The CTs are sized to go around the wire above the main disconnect.

 

[IVB]

Sad part is unless you have a sparky friend that you can throw a couple of beers and a burger at him, you will most likely pay $100+ for the local "low buck bob" residential electrical contractor.

Even sadder is that i've got $200 in zWave 3way switch parts just sitting in the box for 2 years as I couldn't tell which wire was which. There's 4(5?) wires, all freakin black, in the box. Damn prior sparky hack.

I figure I can get a small break since i'll have the dude figure that out, plus run a new circuit for me, so he'll have to open the box regardless. then seriously, what's the biggie about popping off a few screws.

 

[will40]

Sad part is unless you have a sparky friend that you can throw a couple of beers and a burger at him, you will most likely pay $100+ for the local "low buck bob" residential electrical contractor.

Even sadder is that i've got $200 in zWave 3way switch parts just sitting in the box for 2 years as I couldn't tell which wire was which. There's 4(5?) wires, all freakin black, in the box. Damn prior sparky hack.

I figure I can get a small break since i'll have the dude figure that out, plus run a new circuit for me, so he'll have to open the box regardless. then seriously, what's the biggie about popping off a few screws.

IVB,

I will help you out the best I can with the three ways. You say all boxes have black wires?

Is this done in pipe? Romex or metal clad cable would have white conductors too, these should be spliced and tucked in the back of the box.

Do you have just 2 switch locations that control the same light(s) or more than two switched locations with 4-ways for the same light(s)?

Check out http://www.handymanwire.com/articles/3wayswitch.html

PM me with a sketch of what you got.

 

[upstatemike]

Looking at the Brultech Web dashboard application I really like the real-time display. It would be nice though to also include a "cost per hour now" and "cost so far for the day" so so it is clear to everyone in the house when power usage gets out of hand. I also see references to monitoring individual devices... Is this done using dedicated circuits and multiple CTs or are these being tracked some other way?

edit-

I have also seen reference to CO2 emission tracking for both Brultech and TED. How is this measured? Do the electrons have some sort of tagging to tell if they were generated using hydro vs wind vs fossil fuel vs nuclear?

 

[IVB]

Sad part is unless you have a sparky friend that you can throw a couple of beers and a burger at him, you will most likely pay $100+ for the local "low buck bob" residential electrical contractor.

Even sadder is that i've got $200 in zWave 3way switch parts just sitting in the box for 2 years as I couldn't tell which wire was which. There's 4(5?) wires, all freakin black, in the box. Damn prior sparky hack.

I figure I can get a small break since i'll have the dude figure that out, plus run a new circuit for me, so he'll have to open the box regardless. then seriously, what's the biggie about popping off a few screws.

IVB,

I will help you out the best I can with the three ways. You say all boxes have black wires?

Is this done in pipe? Romex or metal clad cable would have white conductors too, these should be spliced and tucked in the back of the box.

Do you have just 2 switch locations that control the same light(s) or more than two switched locations with 4-ways for the same light(s)?

Check out http://www.handymanwire.com/articles/3wayswitch.html

PM me with a sketch of what you got.

Thanks for the help, i had a thread going here, i'll take some pics later today and post it in that thread.

 

[Steve]

I also see references to monitoring individual devices... Is this done using dedicated circuits and multiple CTs or are these being tracked some other way?

The BrulTech device has 2 options I believe. The hardware has 2 channels so it is able to monitor the mains on 1 channel and 1 other device on the second channel. The other option which I believe is similar to the TED unit is load profiling. I think you can set it to see when a certain device turns on and off by its load signature. In other words, when your water heater kicks and and draws x watts, the monitor can track whenever is sees x watts come and go and it then assumes that is the water heater. I think the weakness to that is when you have separate loads that may draw a very similar # of watts, or a device that is variable.

 

[upstatemike]

I also see references to monitoring individual devices... Is this done using dedicated circuits and multiple CTs or are these being tracked some other way?

The BrulTech device has 2 options I believe. The hardware has 2 channels so it is able to monitor the mains on 1 channel and 1 other device on the second channel. The other option which I believe is similar to the TED unit is load profiling. I think you can set it to see when a certain device turns on and off by its load signature. In other words, when your water heater kicks and and draws x watts, the monitor can track whenever is sees x watts come and go and it then assumes that is the water heater. I think the weakness to that is when you have separate loads that may draw a very similar # of watts, or a device that is variable.

I participated in a load profiling experiment with my utility a few years back. They provided a special meter and pulled the data via phone line for analysis. Turns out it was very hard to pin down what profile went with what devices and after a couple of years they abandoned the project.