Structured Panel to A/V Rack Connections

[Del91574]

Depends on how your house and pulls are, but if your existing is fine, I would let the sleeping dog lie and as items need to be replaced/upgraded/relocated, then pull to modify and run to the SMC.

 

[drvnbysound]

Scratch the question above... I just pulled all of the coax from the demarc (6 lines) into the attic for now, and ran (4) new coax cables which will be run from the demarc into the SMC.

The same was done with the Cat5E that was run as telephone line (5 lines). I ran (2) new Cat5E cables which will be run from the demarc into the SMC as well.

 

[drvnbysound]

So I have been working on getting Cat5E and coax pulled to my SMC location... most all runs are in the attic just above where my SMC will go, just waiting to get the top plate drilled now and start feeding wires through.

That said, about 2 months ago I changed my plan from my original approach, and decided to go with (2) 28" Leviton panels. The idea was to basically stack them on top of each other with about 6" between - removing the existing alarm panel and enlarging that cutout to accommodate one of the panels, and placing the second panel below that (picture of the area below for reference - NOTE: 'Leviton panel here' was the original plan):

The upper panel would be for security devices (Elk M1G, related accessories, and an Axis video encoder for security cameras), while the lower panel would be for CATV, Telephone, and Cat5E wiring throughout the home (plus cable modem, wired router, (2) HDHR's, and possibly an additional 8-port switch).

Tonight I got the area for the lower panel cut out, which was a bit more work that I originally expected since the studs were not exactly 16" on center; I had to notch 3/8" out of the width of the stud. After an initial test fit, I realized that there will only be about 1/4" between the panel and the drywall that is on the other side of the wall. This is now effectively a problem, since I planned to stack the panels as mentioned above, and I am 99% sure that the wiring for the lower panel will not fit behind the wiring of the upper panel. That said, is there any reason that I shouldn't pass the wiring for the lower panel through the upper one? I'm really not all that crazy about doing it, but I really don't see any way around it at this point. Does anyone know of any others options/suggestions?

 

[tmbrown97]

Those panels are kinda meant to fill the whole cavity and not have room behind them.. I've always just passed the wires between the cabinets as needed (right now I have a 50" on top of a 20").

Another option is to just not put it flush, and to make it look nice use some trim around the edges to frame it in.

 

[video321]

I realized that there will only be about 1/4" between the panel and the drywall that is on the other side of the wall. This is now effectively a problem, since I planned to stack the panels as mentioned above, and I am 99% sure that the wiring for the lower panel will not fit behind the wiring of the upper panel.

As I was reading your post that was exactly what was going through my mind.
That is what - a garage on the other side of the door? An option would be to open a small hole from the garage-side in the adjacent bay just big enough for 2 hands to get in. Run conduit down that bay and put in a sweeping 90 to terminate into the side of the bottom panel. No drywall repair on the finished side and conduit to run more wire if/when needed. You may want to run the wires outside the conduit to leave it open for new runs.

 

[drvnbysound]

As I was reading your post that was exactly what was going through my mind.
That is what - a garage on the other side of the door? An option would be to open a small hole from the garage-side in the adjacent bay just big enough for 2 hands to get in. Run conduit down that bay and put in a sweeping 90 to terminate into the side of the bottom panel. No drywall repair on the finished side and conduit to run more wire if/when needed. You may want to run the wires outside the conduit to leave it open for new runs.

It is a garage on the other side. While the conduit is certainly a good idea, I already have (2) 2-gang boxes down there (on the laundry room side, in the adjacent panel). One is the power coming in for this work (on it's own separate breaker), along with (6) Cat5E cables that will be patched to the lower panel providing connectivity between panel equipment and rack equipment. The other is (2) of the power inlet receptacles (http://www.amazon.co.../ref=pd_cp_hi_2) one for each panel; which will enable me to put either or both panels on a UPS.

Since the panels will only be about 6" apart, I dont think it would be that difficult to run additional cabling between the later if needed; I figured I would also run a couple stands of nylon pull cords just for that reason.

Those panels are kinda meant to fill the whole cavity and not have room behind them.. I've always just passed the wires between the cabinets as needed (right now I have a 50" on top of a 20").

Another option is to just not put it flush, and to make it look nice use some trim around the edges to frame it in.

Thanks for the confirmation - I figured someone else had done it, I just wanted to make sure there was really no issues with doing so. With regard to the trim, you can see that is what was done with the existing alarm panel. The thing is that panel is only about 12" wide, so when the larger Leviton panels are installed they will almost touch the cabinets; I think the cover panel may actually touch them (yet to be seen). Here is what it looks like right now:

Note that the 14/2 cable (pictured) in the lower cavity is a new run for the upper Leviton panel; currently there is no power in the existing alarm panel, as the transformer is in another part of the home.

Also, following the current UPS thread in the security forum - I plan to leave the alarm connected as it is now; with the alarm panel transformer connected in another location and utilizing the standard alarm battery for backup. The UPS providing power to the inlets and thus power in the enclosures will be for the other devices, such as the Axis video encoder, CCTV cameras, cable modem, router, etc.

 

[Photon]

Does your garage get cold? Here in Wisconsin if I removed all the insulation from my outside wall and plugged a box in there, I could count on the humid air in the laundry room condensing inside the box. I'd add insulation to the garage side of the wall if I tried that here.

 

[drvnbysound]

Does your garage get cold? Here in Wisconsin if I removed all the insulation from my outside wall and plugged a box in there, I could count on the humid air in the laundry room condensing inside the box. I'd add insulation to the garage side of the wall if I tried that here.

I am in FL - so usually the garage is pretty warm. I have thought about trying to cram the insulation back in there (I removed it while I was notching the stud), I just assume that it wont be all that effective when it's smashed in ~1/4" space behind the panel.

 

[Del91574]

I am in FL - so usually the garage is pretty warm. I have thought about trying to cram the insulation back in there (I removed it while I was notching the stud), I just assume that it wont be all that effective when it's smashed in ~1/4" space behind the panel.

How about sheeting the garage wall with foam then covering with sheetrock for fire rating?

 

[drvnbysound]

The garage is already finished in terms of sheetrock and paint (4 yrs ago when the home was built)... I have no intent to rip that out at the moment. If there is any issue after the installation I may reconsider if necessary.

 

[Del91574]

You would leave the existing in place, just sheath over it with ICF and then sheetrock on the garage side, just maintain the existing sheetrock and make a "sandwich".

Either way, depending on how much cabling you're intending on passing through, appropriate cable management would minimize the amount of space being used in the can for "pass through".

It also looks like the bay adjacent to the right in the picture would facilitate some flex runs if conduit or easy pulling after the fact between cans was desired, otherwise a couple of bored holes and pull strings being left would also work.

 

[Neurorad]

I saw a cool option for you, just the othe day, one that I hadn't seen before.

I don't know how much space you have in the garage, but a simple framed and drywalled bump out of the garage wall might solve a lot of your troubles.

Pics here:

http://www.avsforum....89#post21808989

I haven't figured out how to copy pic links with this stupid iPad yet.

Edit - now that I'm on a proper PC

Edit #2 - I realize now that DEL is saying just about the same thing.

 

[drvnbysound]

I now have both holes cut - notching the 2x4 wasn't exactly fun, but I was able to purchase a new tool to get the job done (Rigid JobMax)... so many other projects going on that it's tough for me to dedicate a lot of time to this right now I am hoping to get into the attic tomorrow evening and start pulling the cables into the wall and enclosures.

That said, I finally received my Leviton VRCOP-1LW this week from ASI (was on back order for a while). Looking at the Elk manual, it lists the J5 connector as being for a Lighting Interface Connection. Is it safe for me to assume that I can use this connection with the VRCOP?

If not, I assume my alternatives would be to 1) buy a XSP and connect to it via the RS-232 (DB-9) connection or 2) connect the RS-232 to a computer and utilize CQC (since I also have a license for it... something else I need to spend some more time with).

 

[tmbrown97]

I'm not 100% sure, but AFAIK, the onboard connector is ONLY for the X10 interface - everything else requires an XSP.

 

[wuench]

Yeah the lighting connector on the main board is X10 only. The M1XSP manual says it works with Leviton Vizia RF+, but doesn't say much else. I think the best option for Elk Zwave control is probably an M1XSLZW.