Woodworking thread

I'm only vaguely worried about having a strong rare earth magnet permanently by my touchscreen monitor...

This should not cause any problems. ~10 years ago I was designing LCD monitors (back when they were rare ;-) and we used to sell into hospitals for MRI monitors because they were immune.
 
I'm only vaguely worried about having a strong rare earth magnet permanently by my touchscreen monitor...

This should not cause any problems. ~10 years ago I was designing LCD monitors (back when they were rare ;-) and we used to sell into hospitals for MRI monitors because they were immune.
LCD immune - cart not
MRIexperiment.jpg

:wacko:
 
Royal, since you'd seem to be the defacto expert on this (as recently evidenced by the pic), what's your recommendation for a frame clamp? I just got urged AGAIN to get into this by the wife, so I can't drag my feet anymore on buying it.
 
Royal, since you'd seem to be the defacto expert on this (as recently evidenced by the pic), what's your recommendation for a frame clamp? I just got urged AGAIN to get into this by the wife, so I can't drag my feet anymore on buying it.

An alternative to glue and clamps is pocket holes using a Kreg jig.

Before I picked up my fancy underpinning machine, this was my preferred method for making picture frames.

You drill your holes, give them a little glue (optional with this method) and screw them together. Ready to use.

Brian
 
Royal, since you'd seem to be the defacto expert on this (as recently evidenced by the pic), what's your recommendation for a frame clamp? I just got urged AGAIN to get into this by the wife, so I can't drag my feet anymore on buying it.

Far from an expert for sure. But if you can wait a couple day for it to get delivered, this is the clamp I would recommend, it's pretty nice. The self squaring feature saves you alot of aggravation.

--Jamie
 
Well, I discovered Lowes DOES carry a frame clamp, called a strap clamp, over in the clamps aisle. But it was around $30, so I figured if I'm going to spend that much, might as well be on the fancy one royal suggested.

Two more questions about frame making:

1) What glue do you use? I had figured regular carpenters glue, but I read something on the internet that suggest an epoxy instead so it will hold to the end grain better.

2) For making the mitre cut, do you use a special blade on your saw? Maybe a really fine/thin blade so the odds of chipout are lower? Or do you just use a standard saw blade?
 
I hate miters.

1) I usually use wood glue, but I also reinforce the joint with something- spline, biscuit, dowel, glue soaked paper (on really thin frames).

I hate miters.

2) I use a chopsaw- lots of teeth for a fine cut. Make sure you get the face of the wood such that you won't get chipout.

I hate miters.

If you haven't yet, search for "table saw miter sled" and build one- you will have a much better chance of success. This way, if your jig is off a hair , you make up for it on the other piece you cut.

I'm shifting to build frames more like this.

Did I mention I hate miters? ;-)
 
Those first two frame styles are nice!

FYI, Sears has a sliding, compound miter saw on sale for $99 (was $149).
 
A GMC 10" saw? Naw, I can't....I'm a Chevy guy, through and through.

Plus I was also told that I'd be less of a man if I had a 10" saw instead of 12"...and I'd have to agree.

Otherwise, that *is* a pretty good price, if brand means nothing (and I really don't know if brand DOES mean anything).

Interesting suggestion from the IhateMitres guy, though, of just using a table saw and sled. I think I see more and more how, with the right sleds, jigs, and clamps, you can use almost any saw to do the same task.

Of course, I don't have a table saw *or* a mitre saw, so it's all moot at this point!
 
Sorry! For some reason I thought you did have a table saw. IMO, if you are going to do any woodworking, you need a table saw. (unless you have a small army of apprentices and a pit saw ;-) While most tasks can be accomplished with most saws, the table saw is key for its accuracy, solidity, and flexibility.

Brands are somewhat important for "real" tools. A $99 sliding compound saw bears some examination- functionally, it needs to be rigid, accurate, and repeatable enough to do the job. Assuming that, at that pricepoint you probably don't care if you will be able to get parts or not, it is almost disposable.

Some of my projects are here, if you are interested.
 
Dang...that IS some nice work.

Ya, table and mitre saw are both on the list. I had favored getting a mitre saw first, just because of how often I need to just simply cross-cut a piece of wood to a new length, and I figured it'd be easier than using my circular saw. So I'm not talking anything at ALL in the way of quality woodworking.

I didn't see the usefulness of a tablesaw much for what I've been doing so far, but again, that's been grade level 1 carpentry. I'll keep my eyes open for one then, though there's currently a financial ban on new equipment.
 
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