Recent content by jcrack_corn

ill split the difference. im going to use 22/4 using dedicated negs (2 zones per wire). ill pre cut the 24 runs and route them together all at once. that way everybody is happy. ill probably use telco splices rather than butt....i like them better with the smaller gauge

the current location has a large service area in attic where everything will be easily accessible. house and attic are quite large, plenty of room to stand up and walk around (at least 20 ft height in attic due to roofline aesthetics). anyway, its all being moved to the new structured wiring...

not an electrical engineering reasonable one. just that they would not do it that way, they would run individiual pairs. from an EE standpoint there are no voltage, amperage, or crosstalk issues that i can figure out...just wanted a second opinion. if one of my negs fails then that causes...

i need to move an elk m1 panel about 30 feet for a remodel. all zone inputs are common to the negative battery terminal..... so was considering using 18/8 tstat wire to move 7 zones at a time to simplify wiring. (7 zone +, one common neg that is split back out at the panel. the guys at...

well, i could be wrong, but i'm pretty sure your problem is jumper S1 is set to 0. the HAI omnistat firmare requires jumper changes to function, the m1xsp manual says for 300 baud (or HAI therms) to set s1, s2, s3 to zero. with new HAI firmware, with your RC-80 the jumpers should now be: s1 =...

As mentioned above, and i think this is the take-home message.....dont do any of what you are considering without getting licensed help first. I strongly doubt you want to run your entire project with THHN (which is the wire you put in conduit, NOT ROMEX)...and if you had the skills to run...

Backflow preventers in the ground are generally completely worthless and I'm surprised they are still allowed by code ANYWHERE. You want to prevent contamination of the indoor water from chemicals and bacteria, if there is pressure on both sides of a backflow preventer, EVEN IF the valve is...

any updates on how it is working for everyone?

i have had elk and insteon for a couple of years....i was seriously considering a 10,000 dollar wireless lighting option (pro-grade that is gauranteed to work). I have had ISY (controlled by elk, with mainlobby front end) for 6 months now and have had ZERO problems or missed commands. It works...

Again, to clarify. I agree, Jayson is great, and the app will be great. However, it is marketed (just about EVERY tech forum i read BTW...) by Jayson as a finished/working application. We are all the very top echelon of end user, I imagine that "average joe" buying this app would be quite...

First, I have been communicating with Jayson about this, and he always responds quickly, however I feel I need to post about this. My concerns with this 44.99 application is that I cant get it to work in any reasonable fashion. Now first, I have an robust ELK setup that controls my whole...

Using this board for my sprinkler system, while on vacation get call that one zone had been on for 3 days...no problem, had the friend cut main house water off....get home and explore... on my board the second relay will not turn off. This happened after a powerfailure while we were gone (elk...

you just need to bust up the wall where the pipe enters and get access from there, OR carry the main inside at that point (is their a close or utility room there?)

Crap! FOrgot to include my rules....here they are!

I have HAI thermostats hooked to my elk M1 via serial expander. Has been working very well for approx 1 year (i really dont touch the thermostats anymore)...however the house is big and the thermostat for bedrooms side sometimes misses the communication (definitely pushing the limits of rs 232...