Beanie basics

[snakevargas]

I've not used "b connector" splices before and I could use a little guidance. First of all, do I understand correctly that you're not supposed to have to strip the insulation? My very first splice was cat5 to my m1 keypad and the splice failed intermittently. I inserted both unscripted connectors and squeezed in multiple places with a pliers. This was a gel-filled splice from elk.

When I redid it, I first stripped and twisted the wires and then crimped. This connection was successful, but I get the feeling I'm doing it wrong.

Is 24ga solid cat 5 too small? What type of crimping tool do most folks use?

 

[chrisexv6]

For really thin wire (i.e. 24 ga in Cat5e) I will strip the insulation and twist the wires first.  I had the same experience as you....the crimps didnt make it through the insulation, and even when stripped the small conductors seemed a little loose inside the B.  If you have more than 2 conductors you can probably get away with not twisting them.
 
For larger guage (20, 18) Ive still stripped the insulation but didnt twist them together and it worked fine.
 
I think the goal is just to get the wires securely in the beanie.  The "spikes" inside the connector should handle the rest, making sure everything conducts to each other.
 
To squeeze the beanies I use a linemans pliers since it has a pretty big flat spot to provide even pressure.  I just center the beanie in the flat spot of the pliers and squeeze.  Ive noticed that you CAN squeeze too hard, so try not to gorilla it.

 

[wuench]

I always strip and twist then put them on and crimp.  

 

[homejones]

Strip > Twist > Insert > Crimp

 

[newalarm]

I strip, twist, then crimp three times in different places. you can give it a tug just to make sure, just like you would with a wire nut and it should not come off or budge at all.
 
I also found that not stripping was a no go.
 
Is it considered ok to use appropriately sized wire nuts?

 

[Del91574]

As a FYI, In the telcom world, they work without stripping, although you're supposed to have a special presser to make the splice, and then, per Bell labs back in the 50's or 60's, the splice is electrically equivalent to soldering.The wires are supposed to be laid flat and funnelled into them, with the same AWG, no mismatching.It's like the modern scotchlocks (UG, UR, UY's)
 
In the alarm world, they're used for insulation purposes only after stripping/twisting. The largest "error" is people crimp them flat or use the wrong crimp die. You need a die/crimper that is for insulated terminals. The uninsulated one typically pierces the connector or breaks the conductors inside the b connector.
 
Wire nuts will also work, sized appropriately, but I'd only recommend in a junction box or similar.

 

[Neurorad]

Anyone tried Wago Lever Nuts for category cable? 28 - 12 AWG.

I've used them for 16 AWG speaker cables, and they work extremely well.

http://www.wagocatalog.com/okv3/index.asp?strBestNrID=2220412&cid=51&lid=5

 

[Neurorad]

Wago has some very well engineered products.  I think the Lever Nuts, though, would be too expensive to use often.  
 

 

[newalarm]

Plus, could become undone if someone was careless. I think the 'use once' models are better.

 

[Neurorad]

No, they are very difficult to 'undo'. They are nearly idiot proof.

The only issue I could foresee is not stripping the correct length of conductor insulation, and closing the lever onto insulated conductor and not bare conductor.

They are much easier, and more rugged, than twist wire nuts.

I used Wago push-ins recently for outlet pigtails, and they worked well too, but the connection is not quite as sturdy as with the lever connectors. Sizing is crucial for the push-ins as well, and of course pay attention to solid vs stranded requirements. Looks like Wagon has revised their line of push-in connectors; can't find the link to the ones I used.

 

[js19707]

DEL, can you clarify this statement: 
 

The largest "error" is people crimp them flat or use the wrong crimp die. You need a die/crimper that is for insulated terminals. The uninsulated one typically pierces the connector or breaks the conductors inside the b connector.

 
in particular, i'd like to avoid being one of these people.  what is the correct tool/die for crimping beanies?  

 

[snakevargas]

DEL, can you clarify this statement: 
 
 
in particular, i'd like to avoid being one of these people.  what is the correct tool/die for crimping beanies?  

Searching amazon, it looks like a Dolphin DC-4141 will do it at about $138. If I could find something as good for 50 bucks, I'd buy it but $138 is a bit steep for me.

EDIT: Googled and found a few online dealers as low as $53.

 

[newalarm]

I just use needle nose pliers or similar that is about 1/8" wide. It works and have not had it fail yet. This is also why i crimp three times. I think the important issue is not to crush/destroy the crimp, but put enough pressure that it will not easily come off (hence the tug test).

 

[sda]

I use Klien lineman's pliers.  These have about a 1/16" gap between the jaws so you can't crimp it more than that.

 

[Del91574]

Searching amazon, it looks like a Dolphin DC-4141 will do it at about $138. If I could find something as good for 50 bucks, I'd buy it but $138 is a bit steep for me.

EDIT: Googled and found a few online dealers as low as $53.

That is a generic ratchet tool for insulated sta-kons or terminals, many manufacturers make them and dies for that, however it's really the wrong tool, although it will work for the purpose.
 
This is the real deal (current production) http://gmptools.com/nf/85330.htm
 
I own 3 of them that were issued by Bell Telephone, 1 made in 1959, 1 in 1963 and 1 in 1973. There is a go/no-go gauge that you're supposed to crimp a piece of solder and verify it fits in snugly to ensure a proper crimp. As I said, if done properly using solid conductors, the splice is electrically equivalent to a solder splice and gas tight. The gel filled crimps were for extra insurance in damp enviroments, but supposedly not necessary per Bell labs.
 
For "production" non-mission critical stuff I use a T+B 112M tool, using the "insulated" die on the unit, crimping the chicklet twice, basically just a slight oval crimp to the chicklet. The goal is to not flatten the crimp, but to just get it to start to bite down. I know my Klien linesman's and needle nose pliers overcrimp and flatten the chicklet too much....really it should be about 1/8" or slightly smaller when crimped. 1/16" is essentially flat.