Device and Wiring Labeling Systems

[felixrosbergen]

Hi All,

I've been working on a labelling convention for the devices that will be used for all the automation related devices in the house. This would be use to identify the device as well as the cable from the wiring room to the device (everything is homerunned).

I haven't worked out a labelling system for wiring between devices in the wiring room, thats next on the list.

Below is what i have so far, please chime in with your own method or suggestions to improve mine.

Field Device Labeling Convention:

Convention: TT-L-RRR-F-#-P

TT = Type of Device
__Security Group:
____WS = Windows Sensor
____DS = Door Sensor
____SS = Smoke Sensor
____CS = CO Sensor
____MS = Motion Sensor
____KP = Security Keypad
____OS = Outside Speaker/Siren (for Alarm System)
____IS = Inside Speaker/Siren (for Alarm System)
__Hardwired Lighting Group:
____HA = Hardwired Lighting - Aux Control wires
____HC = Hardwired Lighing - Communication (ALC 2 wire Polling Loop)
__Media Outlets (Quickports) Group:
____MO = Media Oulet
__Audio (Nuvo) Group:
____SP = Speaker
____AK = Audio Keypad
__Other Group:
____TS = Thermostat
LL = Building Level
__B = Basement
__1 = Ground Floor
__2 = 2nd Floor
__A = Attic
RRR = Room
__GAR = Garage
__DNR = Dining Room
__FOY = Foyer
__LVR = Living Room
__KIT = Kitchen
__MUD = Mud Room
__BA1 = Bathroom 1
__MBA = Master Bath
__HBA = Half Bathroom
__HAL = Hall
__FRM = Family Room
__MBR = Master Bedroom
__BR1 = Bedroom 1
__BR2 = Bedroom 2
__BR3 = Bedroom 3
F = room Face (Wall or Ceiling)
__N = North Wall
__E = East Wall
__S = South Wall
__W = West Wall
__C = Ceiling
# = Device Number (From left side of the wall to right side of the wall)
P = Port number (is case of Media Outlet)

It seems that quite a few people are wondering about conventions, if we can jointly develop some sort of standard this could be very usefull.

For cabling between devices in the wiring room woudl you use abbreviations for the devices and put a label with both device names on each side of the cable. In other word cable between a Nuvo and the server would be labelled 'NUVO - SERVER' on the Nuvo side and 'SERVER - NUVO'.?? Would you include port numbers and such? That woudl be a mess to keep accurate. I don't want to be a slave to my system and labelling system.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Seems like a good idea, but you can just simply put a description on the cable. I let the cable 'type' let me know if it's security related, network, video, etc...

Also, when you order cable (did this for my friend's house) get different colored cable for two conductor and four conductor as well as your cat5 (coax is usually black so not much choice there).

Then you can easily at least identify if the cable is for security sensors (two conductor), keypads (four conductors), network, etc... That along with the label (Den Window) should be enough identification.

 

[mustangcoupe]

does everyone just label at the ends? or at each box or accessible area it passes through

 

[electron]

I only label them where they are terminated.

 

[Neurorad]

I only label them where they are terminated.

In the enclosure, or outside of it?

Label maker on my Christmas list.

 

[sic0048]

does everyone just label at the ends? or at each box or accessible area it passes through

I've only labeled the ends (I label both ends), but that is because I don't have any looped into another enclosure. I assume you did this to provide some flexibility in the future as to where you run equipment (ie you could put it locally or in a closet because your wires are looped to the local location and travel on to the closet). If this is the case, then you would definitely need to label the "loop" as well. Otherwise in 2 years when you want to change your set up, you'll have to use trial and error to find the correct wire. It will be easier to to if you have properly labeled everything.

I label them about 1-2" from the attached connector or termination point. I don't want the label to interfere with the termination process, but I want the label to be close enough to be of worth. If I have to trace a wire back 2' to my label, that defeats the purpose of putting one on IMHO (well not really, but you get my point I hope).

 

[mustangcoupe]

I assume you did this to provide some flexibility in the future as to where you run equipment (ie you could put it locally or in a closet because your wires are looped to the local location and travel on to the closet).

in my case it is because it is in plastic conduit and multiple conduits join together in junction boxes, and I was thinking maybe I should label them in each junction box too

 

[jlehnert]

I suggest you go with the labeling AND color coding. No matter what the advertising says, labels WILL fall off, and the colors will make it easier to figure out what goes where. It also IMHO makes a nicer looking install.

I had one project where the plumber managed to spill PVC primer onto the cables. A boatload of labels were erased, and it dissolved the sheathing enough that half of the wires were stuck together. A fun time was NOT had by all.

 

[mustangcoupe]

Jlehnert....All I can say is OUCH

I actually just bought a used Rhino 3000 which can do shrink wrap labels also ... unless it is painted or disolved but I know it WONT fall off...

 

[PaulD]

I am getting ready to label all the wire in my new house and I was originally headed in the same direction that Mavric appears to be headed by using a complicated wire labeling approach. In the end, it was leading to a very complicated mess that always seemed to be missing some code I felt like I needed. It also was leading toward a very big/long label to apply to the wire....at each end. Then I discovered a wiring guide that convinced me that was not the way to go. The guide advocated a simple numbering scheme combined with a listing which crossed the number to the full name & info I wanted to relate to a specific wire/cable. That allows me to put a simple number at each end of a cable which is much easier than a long complicated label that will probably split and fall off the first time the wire bends where the label is applied. Also, small wire like 22/2 is very difficult to apply an lable that has much info.
With this approach, you can use the roll of individual numbers and build up any number you need to apply and you will not need a fancy label maker...at least for wire marking. However, I will be using my label maker to make labels to apply to various key points in my setup to highlight connectors/etc. I also intend to use my lablel maker to make clear labels with small print to apply to faceplates in my wall outlets so I know what wire number is tied to each network or cable outlet.

 

[CollinR]

If you use Genesis Cat5 it has markings on it you just hit with a sharpy. ABCDEFGHIJK...1234567890

Using this and an access database is all I do.

For security stuffs I have a color coding system in addition to a sharpy mark, basically just a ring around the cable. So 22/4 1 ring is primary keypad, 2 rings is secondary and so on.

 

[Neurorad]

Moving into my new (to me) house last year, I was really annoyed to find a spaghetti pile of speaker wire in the stereo cabinet (5.1 + whole-house), and 17 home runs of coax in the basement, with cryptic marks on some of them. And 20 phone cables.

I really wish there was some universal convention, as MavRic has suggested. Sure, anyone can come up with a usable system, but it really should be something that anyone can walk up to and figure out without a cheat sheet.

Maybe the TIA/EIA should adopt a standard, like MavRic's, except with fewer TT subtypes. B)

 

[Lagerhead]

Per many of the comments here, simpler really is better. Terminations -- whether 66-type, 110-type, rows of BNCs, terminal strips, etc. -- go a long, long way toward organizing everything at the "chaos" end.

Years ago I was dealing with hundreds of RG62 cables under a raised floor. Got a termination panel built and installed, and everything marked. I supplemented the physical termination with a good list. End of frustration and wasted time, a lasting lesson.

Unused and spare cables can be safely and simply tagged and kept out of the way. Don't overlook the simple benefits of color bands at the cable ends. Five or six colors, two color bands per cable give you a lot of power. Also I like those wire-tie-tags a lot. use with a Sharpie.

 

[Edge540]

In marking wires in aircraft we use a printable heatshrink. A Kroy TM-650, however, i believe this specific machine has been discontinued.
The biggest problem is one must remember to install the heatshrink before terminating. A piece of tape wrapped around the wire with a "leg" holds the heatshrink from falling off until an exact length is known.

 

[Neurorad]

In marking wires in aircraft we use a printable heatshrink. A Kroy TM-650, however, i believe this specific machine has been discontinued.
The biggest problem is one must remember to install the heatshrink before terminating. A piece of tape wrapped around the wire with a "leg" holds the heatshrink from falling off until an exact length is known.

Dymo Rhino label makers accept a heat-shrink sleeve label, though expensive.

http://www.rhinopromo.com/7products.shtm