Door Sensor

[drozwood90]

ok, more details to follow...

BUT the wife saw the light, and I'm going to be replacing my DS10A door / window with hardwired (at least for the door...windows, I'm not sure how the heck to fish a wire at the moment).

So, instead of hitting up rat shack...since I'm going to be buying 10-15 sensors...what's a good place to look?

I'm thinking on the top floor, this is going to be the easiest. I can use my telephone drill bit (basically thin 2' long bit) and drill right through the moulding, into the attic. Then fish the wire through that hole into the attic and through my future tube into the basement. The style sensor I'm looking for would be something that looks like this, but...well, what are YOU using?

http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00tCsQi...acts-5C-36-.jpg

Finally use a dremel / drill and cut out a small hole in the top of the door for the magnet.

I'm not opposed to the magnet being bare...as it's going into the door, you won't see it. As for the wired end, something white would be nice.

--Dan

 

[drozwood90]

Also, question 2:
What is a recomended way to get a sensor on a door on the first floor (there is basement access).

Should I be trying to put the sensor 2-3" off the ground, say hiding the wire under the moulding?

For the windows, I'm considering getting Z-Wave and switching over to them. I know, it's still wireless, but at least they can be polled...the DS10A...if you miss the signal, you miss it. I think the Z-Wave ones are like UPB switches, where if there is no Ack, the sensor would try again to talk to the base (my automation server).

Q3:

Is there a Zigbee one? Would that be better then a Z-Wave one?

--Dan

 

[pete_c]

I have all hard wired sensors in IL and FL. In IL main floor wires come from the basement. Main door frames mostly from under the molding. A few with side switches. In FL the windows were already wired but difficult to create small footprints. It might have been better to use the 3/8" bit to drill a small hole adjacent to the window then caulk or patch and paint it over. Windows were white so I used white heat shrink tubing. You see them but only if you look for them. The most difficult ones were the sliding glass doors (8) because the wire went from the wood frame into concrete blocks and then inner part of the hole was hitting the cement. Half of the IR sensors are the ceiling mounted types. Each of the doors and rest of the sensors are in their own zones. In FL I zoned either side of one glass door. The zone equals the door but each sliding glass door has two mags on it. Initially was going to use rare earth magnets but the press and fit look good and it wasn't difficult drilling into the side of the door. You have to be very careful when drilling into sliding glass doors. Just about at completion of the home in FL the contractor was finishing with the sliding glass doors. It was about 100F that day and I had just turned on the air. The contractor was tightening the door handle on the sliding glass door. He cranked a bit too much. I heard a crack. I saw a small spider web crack start from where the handle was. In a few second it spread to the entire door. For about five minutes I saw the entire glass door bowing in and out (tempered glass). It then shattered shortly after.

For drilling I used a 3/8" drill bit. The magnets are all white press and fit. I have a 4 foot drill bit but didn't really need it. Menards and Home Depot sell these. Use the 3/8" drill bit first then a smaller one inside for the wiring.

I found a place in FL to purchase alarm parts and received them in one day. The prices were good. Its called Wainwright alarm company. They have decent deals on Ebay.

I went to Radio Shack and noticed that they don't carry alarm stuff in store anymore and had a limited expensive selection on line. (this was in FL - Sarasota-Bradenton)

 

[jrmahler]

Automated Outlet is where I buy all of my gear. Their prices are consistently low and they have good tech support. As for hardwiring doors and windows, can't help you. My house was finished when I moved in, so I went wireless. I used the GE NX-458 on the top of my doors and GE NX-454 on my windows. They have been in for 2 years and not an issue yet.

 

[cornutt]

For basic magnetic sensors at a good price, check All Electronics.

 

[pete_c]

Just take your time working on one sensor at a time.

In one area of the home I have two sets of doors - inner and outer. Drilling from the basement up (doing the inner door) I assumed I had measured OK to go inside of one door frame. I made a mistake and came up into the finished wooden floor. NOT good WAF and while the fix looks good and not noticible it slowed down the endeavor some.

I've made mini-projects out of certain sensors both in placement and types.

 

[signal15]

Just take your time working on one sensor at a time.

In one area of the home I have two sets of doors - inner and outer. Drilling from the basement up (doing the inner door) I assumed I had measured OK to go inside of one door frame. I made a mistake and came up into the finished wooden floor. NOT good WAF and while the fix looks good and not noticible it slowed down the endeavor some.

I've made mini-projects out of certain sensors both in placement and types.

This is why you drill from the top down.

 

[pete_c]

I couldn't for the above mentioned door.

I wanted to drill to a spot about 6-8 inches above bottom of the door frame and about 2" from the wood part of the frame between two walls without making any holes in the drywall.

With the two holes (basement and door frame) I was able to fish the wire and install the switch pretty non-invasively (other than my mistake).

For my redo of my media room adding electric, speaker cabling, etc I did drill from the main floor down to the basement. I don't like standing or being near drilling a hole up (wear googles though).

 

[Monk]

Just take your time working on one sensor at a time.

In one area of the home I have two sets of doors - inner and outer. Drilling from the basement up (doing the inner door) I assumed I had measured OK to go inside of one door frame. I made a mistake and came up into the finished wooden floor. NOT good WAF and while the fix looks good and not noticible it slowed down the endeavor some.

I've made mini-projects out of certain sensors both in placement and types.

Hi Pete - check my blog post (42' Plasma TV mounting) where I describe drilling downward with a piece of wire (with pictures) as a "reference" - has yet to fail me, although whilst using one to drill upward once in a previous house, I went too far and went into an air duct. Moral of story, know what is on the other side and use a bit as short as possible.

 

[pete_c]

Thanks Monk. Will read blog.

I guess my house has been a personal experiment in methodologies of running cable.

 

[Monk]

Thanks Monk. Will read blog.

I guess my house has been a personal experiment in methodologies of running cable.

Same here, Pete - Only I have had the fortune to have done a couple prior to this one. I have every intention of making this my "Final" house for retirement time.

 

[Photon]

Just take your time working on one sensor at a time.

In one area of the home I have two sets of doors - inner and outer. Drilling from the basement up (doing the inner door) I assumed I had measured OK to go inside of one door frame. I made a mistake and came up into the finished wooden floor. NOT good WAF and while the fix looks good and not noticible it slowed down the endeavor some.

I've made mini-projects out of certain sensors both in placement and types.

I couldn't drill straight down through the threshold, so I drilled through the side a couple inches from the floor. See my post #3 here:http://www.cocoontech.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13143&hl=tane++door