ELK devices arriving today at 3pm

[v1rtu0s1ty]

I'm very sorry folks, I'm still having a hard time. Where does the left T terminal on the bosch connect to the M1? What about the right T terminal? Am I correct that the + will connect to the Z1 and the - will connect to the neg? What about the 2 NC's, where is left NC need to be connected. What about the 2200 ohm, which terminals should I put it in on the PIR?

Thanks.

I would take a deep breath and REALLY read slowly thru the manual. I know its boring to RTFM but I truly think it will enlighten you alot. It sounds like you are just rushing to get everything hooked up without understanding the basics first. If you just slow down a bit and get the basics, all the rest of this will be easy. I mean this in a truly helpful manner.

In any case, you do not use the T's unless you want to use an additional zone as a tamper zone.

A PIR is simple in concept. It works just like any other contact sensor that opens the circuit when motion is detected. The only difference is that is requires separate power instead of the normal 12V zone voltage.

So, again, the NC terminals go to any zone on the M1. It does not matter which zone and it really does not matter which contact, either the zone or common, it is not polarity sensitive like your power is. So either NC to a zone and the other NC to the common for that zone. As a tip, ALL commons on the M1 are really the same, so technically you yould hook all commons to the same place (not to confuse, but as info - still 'neater' and easier to just use each zones common).

In addition the PIR, like a glassgreak requires power. This is normally driven off of the VAUX on the M1. So the + on the PIR goes to a +VAUX on the M1 and the - on the PIR goes to the NEG on the M1 (under the +VAUX).

If you set the zone in RP as EOL then the 2.2K EOL goes in the PIR - can put it across the NC terminals. Most people do not bother with the EOL and simply leave it out and configure the zone for Normally Closed in RP.

Hi Steve, I'm sorry, I'm not rushing. It's because, I never learned electronics so everytime I see a diagram with just lines, I get lost. But if the diagram comes with a picture, I can easily understand. Actually, I drew a diagram of how I understood your other post.

Take a look here. I'm sure it's still wrong. LOL :unsure:

http://www.4290greenfieldlanehome.com/motionsensor.txt

I'm going to continue reading your post. I'm sorry folks.

 

[Steve]

You certainly are a visually oriented person! Thank god for digital cameras! What did you ever do when you had to use film! :unsure:

Yes, your illustration is exactly right!

I was calling the zone negative common, but indeed it is written NEG on the M1.

 

[rfdesq]

Yeah, I guess that will work for the tamper too :unsure: I personally do not even use it. If someone is good enough to get to the PIR and open it up before it senses them, I have a more serious problem!

I agree, if the bad guy has gotten that far it's time for Mr. Smith and Mr. Wesson. But, I figure I have enough 2.2K resistors lying around I might as well take advantage of the four state zone wiring that ELK was kind enough to include.

 

[rfdesq]

Take a look here. I'm sure it's still wrong. LOL :unsure:

http://www.4290greenfieldlanehome.com/motionsensor.txt

I'm going to continue reading your post. I'm sorry folks.

Neil:

Don't apologize. I'm enjoying trying to put into words what I could show you in person in about 30 seconds. Take your line drawing, add the tamper switches, and the resistors, and repost it.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Neil:

Let me try to explain the wiring of the optional four zone with your Bosch PIR. Refer to the picture you posted above. Let's use Zone 1 on the M1 for example. A wire from the Zone 1 input goes to the far right "T" or tamper input. The far left "T" or tamper terminal gets a 2.2K resistor attached. The other end of the resistor goes to the left hand "NC" terminal. Another 2.2K resistor goes from the left hand "NC" terminal to the right hand "NC" terminal. The right hand "NC" terminal gets a wire that goes back to Zone 1 neg. Have I completely lost you?

Awesome! :unsure: That's very clear.

 

[rfdesq]

I was calling the zone negative common, but indeed it is written NEG on the M1.

Don't forget, the Zone negatives are common with the voltage negatives. But don't mess with Outputs 1, 2, and 3. Treat them as entirely separate from the rest of the system. Especially Output 2, - does not mean negative or ground as related to the entire panel.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Take a look here. I'm sure it's still wrong. LOL :unsure:

http://www.4290greenfieldlanehome.com/motionsensor.txt

I'm going to continue reading your post. I'm sorry folks.

Neil:

Don't apologize. I'm enjoying trying to put into words what I could show you in person in about 30 seconds. Take your line drawing, add the tamper switches, and the resistors, and repost it.

Take a look at this, http://www.4290greenfieldlanehome.com/motionsensor2.txt

Am I correct that I can connect the far right NC to the wire on the -? This way, the wiring will be inside the PIR, and only one wire has to go to the M1

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Ok folks, I got the motion sensor connected to M1 on zone 4. I armed it and it immediately it said, Intrusion Violated Zone 4. The zone 4 definition is 04-Burglar Interior and Type is 0 EOL Supervised/RF. What am I doing wrong?

EDIT: Also, after connecting the motion sensor, when I turned on the controller, it's displaying now NOT READY 1 Zn

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

FYI:

Some motion sensors require a "warm up" time of a few minutes before they show "normal".

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

FYI:

Some motion sensors require a "warm up" time of a few minutes before they show "normal".

What do you think about my drawing though, is it correct?

http://www.4290greenfieldlanehome.com/motionsensor2.txt

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Finally, I got it working. I set it to 3 = EOL Supervised on Short. :unsure:

EDIT: It also even worked at 0=EOL Supervised/RF.

Ok, I did some testing. I armed it and then after 2 mins, I went back and walked along the path that's being monitored by the motion sensor, the ELK immediately responded with an alarm. I also immediately disarmed to turn off the speaker since it was 1:30am. Hehehe. Anyways, why does the KP2 still showing BURGLAR ALARM FAIL TO COMMUN - Living Room Motion in the display even if I have already disarmed it? I was expecting to see the "READY TO ARM".

Should I remove the plastic cover on the inside of the bosch sensor? There is a plastic piece there that we can pull.

 

[Steve]

1. As BSR said, when you first turn the system on you will see the PIR LED on for about 15-30 sec - it will not be responsive during this time.

2. When the system is tripped (Burglar alarm), the keypad will show the alarm until you enter your code to acknowledge it. That's in the manual btw :unsure:

3. Failure to communicate sounds like you told the system to do something via the phone - like dial a telephone # or something and it could not complete that actiion for some reason - wrong phone #, etc (the called party basically did not answer in a way for the M1 to deliver the intended message). As an example, if you define a telephone and create a rule to deliver a voice message upon alarm, and you define the number as 123-456-7890, but you normally need to dial a '1' first, you will get that msg. If you change the # to 1-123-456-7890, it will work and you will not get the error. That is just one example of what it may be...

4. Do not ever remove the inside plastic, that is essentially the 'guts' of the unit (sensor and electronics) and they made it sealed for a reason - actually a good design imho. If you are talking about removing the tab that enables the look down zone (removes pet friendliness), you simply pull on the labeled tab. But understand once you do that you can not put it back and that PIR is now permanently in that state.

 

[rfdesq]

What do you think about my drawing though, is it correct?

http://www.4290greenfieldlanehome.com/motionsensor2.txt

Your drawing looks correct.

 

[rfdesq]

Finally, I got it working. I set it to 3 = EOL Supervised on Short. :unsure:

EDIT: It also even worked at 0=EOL Supervised/RF.

Ok, I did some testing. I armed it and then after 2 mins, I went back and walked along the path that's being monitored by the motion sensor, the ELK immediately responded with an alarm. I also immediately disarmed to turn off the speaker since it was 1:30am. Hehehe. Anyways, why does the KP2 still showing BURGLAR ALARM FAIL TO COMMUN - Living Room Motion in the display even if I have already disarmed it? I was expecting to see the "READY TO ARM".

Should I remove the plastic cover on the inside of the bosch sensor? There is a plastic piece there that we can pull.

Look at page 9 of the M1 installation manual. You should have your PIR set for Type 4 Supervised on Open. If the KP2 is like the KP1 you need to press the * key to get rid of the alarm message, your disarm code alone doesn't do it.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Look at page 9 of the M1 installation manual. You should have your PIR set for Type 4 Supervised on Open. If the KP2 is like the KP1 you need to press the * key to get rid of the alarm message, your disarm code alone doesn't do it.

Yes, I'm aware of the function of * in the keypad. In that state, pressing the * doesn't change the status on the screen.

Anyways, going back to Steve's information on FAILED TO COMMUNICTE, was it because, when I heard the alarm within 2 seconds, I entered the code immediately to disarm it? So the controller failed to call the number?