Getting started with Elk m1 Gold

[guba807]

I am looking at getting an Elk M1 Gold system to start HA and replace a caddx security system that I do not have access to. (bought foreclosure and can't get access code). Right now, the main concern is security. But eventually automation of anything worth automating.

The security will be door and window sensors for now, but will eventually add motion sensors and security cameras. This will be monitored with IP monitoring (nextalarm.com?) and I wish to have remote access to sensors and cameras.

Automation concerns are primarily lighting for now. But I would also like to monitor/control water leaks, fish tanks, spa tub, etc...

There is so much to take in; I'm not sure where to start drawing plans yet, but I need to get the security part running as pressure is mounting from wife and in-law.

Aside from the basic Elk M1 Gold system, what else should I be looking at getting? Do the caddx sensors work? They are already mounted in every door and window.

I also have a question about packages. I see the M1 Gold with insteon lighting control sold for a little more and I was wondering if it is worth getting this?

I have no experience in this field. Any help is appreciated and let me know if I can clarify anything. Thanks.

 

[Digger]

The Caddx sensors are wired or wireless? If wireless you will also need a wireless receiver. Can you run wires to the water sensor locations? The wired water sensors (GRI-2800 etc.) are much more economical.

I would carefully research the lighting system you wish to use. Insteon, UPB, Zwave etc work with the ELK but consider the advantages/disadvantages of each. If you are going with Insteon you really need to consider the ISY.

 

[fcwilt]

The ELK M1G is a good starting point. It can do some pretty good automation. It you ever need more then the M1G can do you can move up to a number of other home automation hardware or software systems that can use the M1G for the security portion.

For instance in my home my primary home automation system is HomeLogic but I have the M1G for security and some additional automation features.

 

[123]

Welcome to Cocoontech, quba807!

Digger is being very diplomatic about choosing a lighting technology. He is 100% correct that you should research your options before committing to one. Lighting can represent a $ignificant portion of your Home Automation system. You'll interact it with it frequently; glitches can become a daily annoyance.

'Your mileage may vary' was never more true than when it comes to lighting technologies. Search the forums here and you'll find find plenty of valuable information.

As in Frederick's case, I have an ELK M1 for security and use another system (Premise) to handle primary Home Automation functions. The combination provides the best of both worlds but there is no need to start with two systems. You can begin with an ELK M1 and, at later date, decide if you need the extra functionality provided by a dedicated HA system. Installing, configuring, and programming the M1 will keep you busy for awhile.

 

[guba807]

All my sensors at this time are wired. All locations I would want water sensors will be wired as well. It's a 2 story house with a full basement. (garage is on main level). Attic is easy to get around in.

Are there some good sites that give comparisons of the lighting controls? I see a lot of complaints about insteon reliability but nothing about the workings. Such things I've heard about are complaints due to delay when starting lights. All controllers seem to have some delay, but which are worse than others?

 

[guba807]

Forgot to ask and I still don't know how to edit on this forum.

I would like to do most (all) programming and setup with an attached computer rather than through keypads and such. What should I be getting to do this?

I also found the google spreadsheet comparison of HA systems. Good show for all that have contributed to that.

 

[Digger]

Forgot to ask and I still don't know how to edit on this forum.

I would like to do most (all) programming and setup with an attached computer rather than through keypads and such. What should I be getting to do this?

I also found the google spreadsheet comparison of HA systems. Good show for all that have contributed to that.

The ELK-M1G has a built in serial port that you can connect a PC to. Then use the FREE ELK-RP software to program the ELK.

 

[Neurorad]

The ELK-M1G has a built in serial port that you can connect a PC to. Then use the FREE ELK-RP software to program the ELK.

It seems Elk keeps the details of the RP Remote Programming software under wraps - there is no instruction manual available for download. I assume this is to limit information to the competing alarm manufacturers, or maybe just to save trees.

Either way, the description page of the programming software is here.

It appears to be the best aspect of the M1, but it's not widely advertised.

I'm in the same position as you are, quba. I'm relatively new to HA, and I'm planning to replace my existing alarm with an M1. Welcome to CT!

 

[SnyperBob]

The ELK-M1G has a built in serial port that you can connect a PC to. Then use the FREE ELK-RP software to program the ELK.

It seems Elk keeps the details of the RP Remote Programming software under wraps - there is no instruction manual available for download. I assume this is to limit information to the competing alarm manufacturers, or maybe just to save trees.

Either way, the description page of the programming software is here.

It appears to be the best aspect of the M1, but it's not widely advertised.

I'm in the same position as you are, quba. I'm relatively new to HA, and I'm planning to replace my existing alarm with an M1. Welcome to CT!

Thx for the info about RP. I may just go with an M1G now over the EZ8 snice the Gold has a serial port built right in. looks like great software

 

[guba807]

Thanks for all the replies. The M1 system has been purchased and I will figure out lighting needs later. I also bought a 42" can to fit future expansion as well as the ethernet port to start running all the keypads. I have about 5 or 6 spots I would want a keypad. I eventually hope to make them touchscreens.

Now I just need to finishing the rough framing for the equipment room and install the system. Has anyone ever had a problem with space behind the enclosure (can). The reason I ask is the equipment room will share a wall with the basement living room and I am concerned about not being able to 'use' the wall space where I have an enclosure on the other side.

 

[Madcodger]

Thanks for all the replies. The M1 system has been purchased and I will figure out lighting needs later. I also bought a 42" can to fit future expansion as well as the ethernet port to start running all the keypads. I have about 5 or 6 spots I would want a keypad. I eventually hope to make them touchscreens.

Now I just need to finishing the rough framing for the equipment room and install the system. Has anyone ever had a problem with space behind the enclosure (can). The reason I ask is the equipment room will share a wall with the basement living room and I am concerned about not being able to 'use' the wall space where I have an enclosure on the other side.

Welcome to Cocoontech and HA. Warning: It's addictive...

Re: space behind the can, I assume you'll be mounting it on a backer board of some type, which will be mounted to the studs of the wall. If so, I've never had a problem with space behind the can, between the studs. However, you'll want to avoid drilling holes into the wall in the living room, etc., without exercising extreme care. It's frustrating to drive a nail into a sensor or serial cable wire while hanging a picture.

Also, you will still likely need a keypad or two near your entrances for arming / disarming the system. It's a good idea to have at least one or two of these, as they're generally more reliable than touch screens or anything PC - based, and you don't want to lose all control of the system should the power go out, etc.

I use a combination of the M1G for security and HVAC control, the ISY for Insteon control, and Homeseer running on a PC for bringing it all together and higher levels of "logic" for the system. HS has also added a decent touch screen interface recently, which looks promising. Re: Insteon and quality, there were many problems for many months when they first launched and I was very unhappy with Smarthome / Smartlabs, but much of that seems to have been cleared up. I still have several switches that need to be replaced b/c of poor paddle quality (micro switches were bad) and will see how they handle their extended warranty then, but the recent switches I've installed seem to be fine. The signaling system itself seems to work well, though, as long as you don't have significant noise on the power line. If I were doing it all over, I'd look at Z-wave and UPB as well, but Insteon would still be in the running.

 

[Digger]

If the enclosure is recess mounted then the wall cavity will be filled. Surface mounting should be fine as Macodger stated.

I use 1 1/4 PVC conduit to the top knockouts in the ELK enclosures and I believe the Leviton would be the same (double check). I just get it up into the ceiling that way for a cleaner look and also protects the wiring. Its not that expensive at Home Depot etc.

I also agree with Macodger about having at least one keypad on the system.

Remember many distributors/dealers have the TS-07 on sale this month since ELK has them on sale. Its a good time to buy them if you want the TS-07 or you may want to wait and see for the new version due out in a few months (pricing/release date not announced).

 

[guba807]

Actually, I'm hoping to mount between the studs. I guess if I do so, I can offset the can to get an inch or two behind it in case I need to mount on the wall behind the can. The room for my equipment is underneath the basement stairs and will also be containing home theater and server equipment. Probably about 4 feet by 8 with a sloping ceiling towards the back of the room.

 

[Neurorad]

Can someone please confirm that the enclosure can be 'offset' by an inch? That is, partially recessed?

My wife and I are currently 'discussing' the location of a toilet paper holder - she wants to put it on the mechanical room side of the toilet, coincidentally within the stud bay where I plan on installing my first enclosure.

I pulled out the drywall yesterday, in the mechanical room, so I have access. I only need a half inch for a nut, to fasten the TP holder mounting bolts.

(OT - I returned my Leviton can yesterday, and plan on going with a 50" Channel Vision, FWIW.)

"You know, if it's a choice between your wiring stuff and something else, you know how I feel." :lol:

 

[Monk]

Can someone please confirm that the enclosure can be 'offset' by an inch? That is, partially recessed?

My wife and I are currently 'discussing' the location of a toilet paper holder - she wants to put it on the mechanical room side of the toilet, coincidentally within the stud bay where I plan on installing my first enclosure.

I pulled out the drywall yesterday, in the mechanical room, so I have access. I only need a half inch for a nut, to fasten the TP holder mounting bolts.

(OT - I returned my Leviton can yesterday, and plan on going with a 50" Channel Vision, FWIW.)

"You know, if it's a choice between your wiring stuff and something else, you know how I feel." :lol:

If the can is an Elk style with door, it would not look that bad. If it does not have a door, but instead a plate that screws on or is meant to be flush w/ drywall, it might look dumb - Am commenting here on the aesthetics only. Functionally I think you could do 3 inches out from being flush.