Beez, if it gets to be to much I will simply tell ya, hahahahahah. I, by no means, have all the answers on ALC. By the way, I didnt say "all your questions" did I?
I have one request: Buy something from Number20 (Tony) when you go to purchase. He helps out ALOT with his EXPERT advice on ALC. IMO he has the most knowledge of anyone I have spoken to on ALC (perhaps more than some of the On-Q tech support. Dont get me wrong, I am happy with their tech support!!). Tonys work here is in effort to generate business and rightfully so. We need to show him our support with ORDERS. I have committed to Tony that when we are up and running I would certainly come up with some orders for him. Hope others are as well as he is a valuable source and his efforts need rewarded. His site is WWW.SETNETPRO.COM. Start perusing it now for budgeting and determining what you need.
Well thanks for the kind words. I do like to feed my family but I truly love this stuff and enjoy sharing what I have learned. And I have stepped into so many pot holes over the years that I strive to help others avoid breaking their legs like I did. My main goal on CocoonTech is to provide techical advice. Your comments about sales are appreciated and mean more than anything I could say.
In 2008 we will release a library of DVD's aimed at the same goals. One of the ones underway now is ALC. I won't promise when it and the others will be shipping, but our goal is early 2008 for the ALC. If the phone don't ring much, we'll get this done. Stay tuned to our site and sign up for our email newsletter for further.
God Bless
THis post is a long one, so I will try to summarize the big points in pre-wire for ALC
While no Hub is needed with ALC wiring, the Hub should be used for any or all of these reasons.
1. Any cable run is long (500 feet)
2. Combined cable runs going to the same branch (a branch will ahndle 31 switches max) exceed 500 feet.
3. You want dip switches for future troubleshooting (Must use the Ehanced Hub as No dip switches are on the cheaper HUB).
When using Hubs, group all switches together (in address range) that you may want to do "All on or All off" features for. Say all switches in the same room/area.
Then address these groups in house code banks (All living room on a bank of up to 16, all kitchen on a bank of up to 16). Start all addresses at the beginning of the range, say ALC address 1 for the Living room starts at Unit code (equivalent to X-10 House code) A1.
Next remember that the hubs only accept 9 switches at a time (and when you remote mount them throughout the home, pull one cat 5 from the remote location to the panel).
Lastly, don't forget that the aux (also called 3-ways or slaves) must wire directly to the swith they are a 3-way for. WHen using Hubs this is easy as each switch of the 9 possible on any hub also has room to punch down the aux (3-way) wires.
If you're not using hubs. Still remember the 500 foot rule. Each branch of 31 ALC addressable switches (don't count aux switches as they have no address) can handle up to a total of 500 feet of cable. EXAMPLE - Branch 1 (say of 4 totla branches in the install) has 12 ALC Dimmers, 2 Relays and 2 Scene switches. That's a total of 16 switches. If each one has 50 feet of cable for a total of 800 feet, then this is too much and you need a hub.
Please note that there are installers who exceed the 500 foot rule and never have a problem. BUT................
As for the Aux / 3-way, you can use as many as you want (for 4-way, 5-way etc), but here too, the total cable length should not get too long. Since this is a dry contact closure, the signal is naturally weak and should not be pushed too far.
NOW FOR THE DAISY CHAIN METHOD!
Another option is to "Daisy Chain" each branch (again not to exceed 31 total addressable switches on any one branch). This may keep the wire lenght lower and the cost of cable down. But troubleshooting a daisy chain is not a pretty picture.
However, should you choose to use this approach. bring both ends of the Daisy Chain Loop back to the panel. Don't just run the loop and then stop at the last switch. By returning the end of the cable run to the panel, you can still make the loop work, if it has a cut or broken point in the cable.
While Daisy chaining will work, homerun is my choice!
Hope this helps all you you who are planning a prewire.