How to mount remote input boards for M1?

[upstatemike]

I want to take advantage of the RS485 BUS on the M1 and mount input boards at a number of juction points on different floors. Usually there will only be 1 or two boards so it doesn't justify using a full 14 inch enclosure and most locations don't have space for that anyway. I tried using the Elk project box enclosures that I use for relays but the M1 stuff doesn't fit.

How are other folks mounting M1 input boards in remote locations? Just screw them to a backboard with some sort of standoffs?

 

[Spanky]

I use double sided foam tape. ELK's double sided tape is about 1/4 inch thick and is used to mount many of the security boards in boxes.


I also like refrigerator magnet material with an adhesive back. Put it on the board and it will stick the board to a metal box.

 

[electron]

Btw, where can you buy that tape? It's really really strong, and would love to get some more.

 

[rfdesq]

Btw, where can you buy that tape? It's really really strong, and would love to get some more.

Amazon.com has some vendors. Northern Tool carries it. I tried Home Depot and Orchard Supply and their search engines couldn't find it.

 

[AutomatedOutlet]

Btw, where can you buy that tape? It's really really strong, and would love to get some more.

I think Spanky was referring to the

Elk-999

 

[Change]

3M double-sided foam tape is available in most hardware stores and is quite strong.

 

[Steve]

I personally don't like the tape. It is always a sticky mess if you want to move items, etc. I much prefer the nylon standoffs. How's this for an idea... If you can't mount standoffs directly because of a a backboard, etc, you can mount the card to an ELK-SWP or SWP3 with standoffs, then simply remove the pushins for the structured can and use those holes to screw the plate to your surface. 4 small screws and you can easily move/remove your parts. BTW, you can find the plates and standoffs here.

 

[rfdesq]

Is anyone concerned about the exposed electrical connections on the back of the boards?

 

[Steve]

Is anyone concerned about the exposed electrical connections on the back of the boards?

I guess it depends on where you are mounting it. I have no problems using the standoffs. They insulate the board and hold them solidy with no chance of it shorting without something else phsically coming loose behind it, which imho is kinda slim. But a small can would prevent this anyway if its a big concern.

 

[Digger]

If you can't mount standoffs directly because of a a backboard, etc, you can mount the card to an ELK-SWP or SWP3 with standoffs, then simply remove the pushins for the structured can and use those holes to screw the plate to your surface. 4 small screws and you can easily move/remove your parts.

I am in process of redoing my installation since it has grown to be a mid sized monster. I bought the mounting plates etc and I agree its VERY easy to move things around (I changed my layout 3 times in one day before actually wiring it up).

I did use just the white nylon standoffs to mount the ethernet board to the can since it seemed a waste to use a mounting plate. Its the same clearance as to the plate and its such a tiny module it seemed to be a waste of a plate. I can still remove the board if need be.

I used cans for my remote expanders since I had some old Honeywell cans lying around but you can use almost anyting since its low power and almost no heat.

I know this will sound wierd but a friend used tupperware (yes tupperware). He got a square one and mounted the board to it with standoffs and drilled holes in it to run the wires. He mounted it to the wall and the cover is easily removed for troubleshooting etc. He tucked it up in a hall closet etc and nobody knows its there. It was about $3.00 or so I think but go to the 99 cent store for a real bargin.