M1KP2 and M1DBH Wiring

Sifter

Member
Im using cat5 home runs. In the M1DBH manual there is a wiring diagram to wire one end of the run to an RJ45 plug and the other end of the run to the harness that hooks up to the M1KP2.

However, its a bit confusing when it talks about the Blue and Brown wire on the wiring harness.

If the Blue and Brown are left unconnected, will this cause a short in the board/keypad?

The rest of the wires are hooked up as follows

Brown - Red
White/Brown - Black
Orange/Green - Green
White/Orange/White/Green - White
 
There will be two unused wires. Just terminate them cleanly - I usually wrap them around the Cat5 a few times (it's what telco people always do with the unused pairs). Some people have found creative uses for them as well, either to drive speakers (in desperation, since in reality the gauge is too low), or to bring the input or output in each keypad back to the wiring closet.
 
Ok, thats what I did, however, I now have a fried keypad. I can actually see burn marks on the back of the board.
 
The blue and brown wires on the M1KP2 harness are for options (either a zone input or a relay output). If you don't use the options then just tape the wires off so they're safe.

If you look at the diagram in the middle of page 2 of the instruction sheet, notice that all the stuff in the bottom right corner of the panel is inside a dashed line indicating optional connections.
 
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Could've been a bad RJ45 crimp, wiring shorting out to the board, the other item I noticed is the screws aren't bugle headed, which might have come close to the board as well. The older KP's had a specific instruction to use no other screws for the backplate, I can't remember if it comes with the new packaging.

Could even have been the storms, but I've found a M1 takes a beating and usually only a direct hit really causes damage.
 
Im almost scared to plug the other 2 keypads in now. Ill take a pic of my RJ45 crimp and post it. I need another set of eyes to make sure its correct.

Also the screws that came with KP2 are the ones I used. I dont remember any being in the flush mount kit.
 
You might be OK with the KP2, I can't tell if that's the backbox or the flush mount kit, I was looking at the picture with no reference to which keypad.

The KP's and KP3's come with bugle headed screws.

Most of the normal RJ45's have a single row of slots for the cables to land in, it seems the worse ones are the 5E and 6 ones I've seen that stagger the pairs up/down instead of in a straight line.
 
I'm not gonna say I've never done anything similar!

Fried panel's a bit of a sting on the wallet though.
 
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