New Router and OmniPro II issues

plasman

Member
I have been happily using an older Linksys Router which assigned 192.168.1.120 to my OmniPro II.   I decided to change to a new Deco M5 Mesh router which has dynamically assigned the IP address of 192.168.68.106 to my Omnipro.  I forwarded port 4369 on the router for this IP.  But a port scan shows that 4369 is not open and therefore I am no longer able to access my Omnipro from my Android app locally over the network or outside the home. What seems odd is that my Omnitouch 5.7e;s are working but if I look at the network settings, they are working over the old local IP of 192.168.1.120.  If I turn on DHCP one Omnitouch assigns an IP in the expected range but then cannot connect to the Omnipro.  My other 5.7e is assigning a bizarre IP and of course does not connect either.   If I use Dealer PC Access, the network is not connecting when I put the new IP address under Options:Network. So I can't upload any changes.
 
I'd appreciate if someone can point me in the right direction since I'm obviously not a network expert.  Thanks.  Howard
 
     
 

LarrylLix

Senior Member
I doubt you need any port forwarding to access any device inside your LAN. Port forwarding is for punching a hole in your router's native firewall for WAN access.
 
Set your OmniPro's fixed IP address in your router's DHCP reservation table using the OmniPro's MAC address. Only the master router should be dictating IP addresses from it's DHCP server.
 

pete_c

Guru
What you want to match old to new is:
 
1 - IP of LAN side of router and gateway IP of router
2 - subnet mask of router
3 - DNS entries sometimes.  Typically this comes automagically from the ISP WAN side of the router
4 - DHCP scope of subnet (note that the OmniPro panel doesn't use DHCP).  The OmniTouch screens can use DHCP or Static IP addressing.
5 - firewall / router port open configuration==> which is just the IP of the OmniPro panel and the port it is configured to use.
 
Easiest to do this with a laptop connected to the router and maybe a screen print of the configuration of your old router.
 
Typically the default is a class C subnet which is around 254 IP addresses.
 

pete_c

Guru
Good news Plasman!
 
Here still OmniPro 2 panel, Omnitouch 5.7e's and Omnitouch Pro Touch on tabletops.  Remote cell / tablets / laptops use VPN to access home network.
 
Home wireless here is using Ruckus APs (easy to mesh).  Firewall is PFSense with multiple managed internal networks.  
 
Here also using Homeseer and Home Assistant software for more features.
 

plasman

Member
I'm impressed. Nice setup!
 
So what would you replace an Omnipro II system with down the road?  My wall dimmer switches go bad from time to time and I've used my last one.  I recently developed another problem with UPB.  The Omnipro (Dealer Access Automation file that writes to the controller) turns on the lights at dusk just fine but I sometimes find them still on in the morning when they are programmed to go off at 2AM. Worked fine for 7 years. Ideas? UPB does not depend on an internet connection, is that correct? My internet sometimes goes out at night since Cox Cable is just awful.
 

pete_c

Guru
So what would you replace an Omnipro II system with down the road? 
 
If I cannot fix it then will replace it with a hot spare.
 
It's been solid now for over 10 years with no issues.  
 
I current utilize UPB in wall switches with no issues.  That said over the years have collected plenty of spares.
 
I also have a Z-Wave controller, X10 controller, Zigbee controller and devices plugged in to the OmniPro 2 panel.
 
Testing MQTT lately with modded to Tasmota / Espurna WiFi switches.  These will not directly connect to the OmniPro 2 panel.
 
 
 
Worked fine for 7 years. Ideas?
 
Powerline noise.  Check your signals with Upstart.  My AC compressor motor going bad generated much power line noise.  My neighbors new pool and in ground pool pump generated noise on my powerline. 
 
Here using a UPB repeater which works for me.
 
Most likely the switch is fine. 
 
UPB does not depend on an internet connection, is that correct?
 
UPB does not depend on an internet connection.
 
My internet sometimes goes out at night since Cox Cable is just awful.
 
Here typically have no issues with my XFinity ISP. 
 
That said I have a failover ISP connection that the PFSense firewall uses.  (two WAN connections and 4 LAN connection are on the PFSense firewall).
 
The house OmniPro automation works fine without an internet connection.
 

plasman

Member
Power line noise sounds like a definite possibility. Thanks for mentioning that. I had to put a big toroid on my power cord for my "Water Cop" since it was false triggering and shutting off the house water. No problem since.

Darn, I don't think I saved the serial cable from my HAI UPB module to test from a PC.
 

pete_c

Guru
The RJXX to RS-232 cable balun uses 3-4 wires.  I have a diagram here on the forum some place.  It is an easy DIY.
 

pete_c

Guru
Here is the discussion relating to the needed cable ==>
 
hxxp://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/26910-simply-automated-or-pcs-upb-pim-with-panel/

Personally keep one spare HAI UPB PIM for testing signals. Works fine using a USB to RS-232 cable to UPB PIM.
 

plasman

Member
Thought I had an unused db9 female but turns out it was a compact db15.  So I ordered an HAI 36A05-2 cable for $15 on Ebay and waiting for it.
 
But your noise suggestion must be correct.  I wrapped my power cord feeding my panel through a big honking toroid (I am an amateur radio operator and use these things all the time).  My outdoor lights are turning on an off properly ever since!  Pete- you are an asset to this forum.
 
Now...how to track down the interference.  Will the power company help?
 
Thanks....Howard 
 

BraveSirRobbin

Moderator
plasman said:
But your noise suggestion must be correct.  I wrapped my power cord feeding my panel through a big honking toroid (I am an amateur radio operator and use these things all the time).  My outdoor lights are turning on an off properly ever since!  Pete- you are an asset to this forum.
 
Now...how to track down the interference.  Will the power company help?
I agree, Pete is awesome!
 
As for the powerline noise...start with the low hanging fruit.  Open the breaker box, look for ground connections loose...verify your overall ground to the house is not corroded and is giving a good ground to earth (most homes have an inspection plate)
 
Can you determine if the noise is overall throughout the home, or just certain areas?
 
Any motors, generators?  Ballasts are also noisy.  What about appliances plugged in to the home.  I once had a nightlight that was giving me fits with X-10 as well as cheap power supplies in computers.
 
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