Newbie question - replacing my existing system with an Elk

[MikeB]

I have a DSC Power832 system installed in my home. I'm considering replacing this system with an Elk to better integrate with my home automation system.

Though my long-term goal is the home automation aspect, my short-term goal is replacing the functionality of my existing security system.


- What can I use from my existing system? I have hardwired door sensors, motion sensors, window sensors, sirens, keypads, and basement window bars. What do I have to replace?
- How big of a project is this? I've never done anything with a security panel.
- Doesn't look like my alarm guy labeled any of the wiring (best as I can tell). Is it easy enough to test and ID the wiring?
- Does the documentation that comes with the Elk cater to someone like me, or is there a more basic walthrough somewhere I could check out?


Sorry for the stupid questions. Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[WayneW]

- What can I use from my existing system? I have hardwired door sensors, motion sensors, window sensors, sirens, keypads, and basement window bars. What do I have to replace?

Since they are hardwired, you can probably reuse all but the keypads.

- How big of a project is this? I've never done anything with a security panel.

Since you are brave enough to ask the question, you are probably qualified to do this. It isn't that hard if you know which end of the screwdriver to use and ask questions here.

- Doesn't look like my alarm guy labeled any of the wiring (best as I can tell). Is it easy enough to test and ID the wiring?

Assuming you can at least tell your inputs/zones from your keypads from your sirens from your power supply, yes, it isn't that hard. It depends upon how many zones you have on your current system. If they did all the wiring for 6 zones, you may not be able to use more than 6 zones on the Elk without doing some wiring tweaks. Depending upon your house/attic, this maybe challenging or fairly easy, but it doesn't have to be done immediately, you can do it on your own schedule. For the best automation expereince, we prefer one sensor per zone. That also makes security troubleshooting easier, but it does NOT improve security (in a significant way).

- Does the documentation that comes with the Elk cater to someone like me, or is there a more basic walthrough somewhere I could check out?

The documentation isn't perfect for a DIY, but it is some of the best in the industry, so it is manageable. Search here for some of the questions you will uncover as we have all needed the same assistance. ElkRP, which is the best way to configure your M1, is the best in the industry. Contact Elk or your preferred vendor to see about getting a demo version of ElkRP so you can evaluate for yourself.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Lookup the manual for your current system and note the wiring which is going to your zone numbers and label them that way. Also note wiring going to "power terminals" (12 vdc) and mark those as (plus and minus).

 

[Digger]

If you plan on adding more devices/zones you might want to consider adding zone expansion modules. I located one on each floor which saved a ton of wiring. The cost is minimal if you figure in the savings on the wire.

I am putting in supplemental power supplies on each floor now as well to take the load off the M1 and also I dont have room in the 3 cans downin the basement anymore.

I would plan everything out on paper and then do a little more than that for wire runs, size of cans, power supplies etc since you can never plan for everything and its a pain to go back and do it again.

I put motions in bathrooms, laundry room etc for non alarm functions (lighting control) and one in the garage that is both purposes. Those and many others (about 60 more) were not part of the system I replaced.

Plan, plan plan and then pull pull pull (wire) :huh:

 

[MikeB]

Thanks for the replies.

Wow, it looks like a big pile of spaghetti to me. :huh:

I found a download for the Power832 PC5010 manual - hopefully after reading through this it will make more sense.

 

[AutomatedOutlet]

- Doesn't look like my alarm guy labeled any of the wiring (best as I can tell). Is it easy enough to test and ID the wiring?

Wow, it looks like a big pile of spaghetti to me.

Not an issue. When I replaced my system with an Elk I didn't even try to figure out which sensor went where. I just installed them all on the panel and created announcements that said "zone 1", etc. when it was opened. I then opened the doors, etc to find out which was which and then changed the names in the system.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

- Doesn't look like my alarm guy labeled any of the wiring (best as I can tell). Is it easy enough to test and ID the wiring?

Wow, it looks like a big pile of spaghetti to me.

Not an issue. When I replaced my system with an Elk I didn't even try to figure out which sensor went where. I just installed them all on the panel and created announcements that said "zone 1", etc. when it was opened. I then opened the doors, etc to find out which was which and then changed the names in the system.

Now, that is a great idea! Only thing I might do different is put a meter on the wiring and do a quick check (open and close) to make sure it's ok if it is an older house before I install it on the Elk (while you have it unterminated).

 

[CollinR]

Now, that is a great idea! Only thing I might do different is put a meter on the wiring and do a quick check (open and close) to make sure it's ok if it is an older house before I install it on the Elk (while you have it unterminated).

Also to look for EOL, if they aren't in the panel they may be at the device, they may be ?.

Basically as was said but I'll add something.


TAKE A FREAKING PICTURE! :unsure: Really it's that easy, many of us can tell a lot by look at the current connections.


Does the alarm work properly now? If so your wires should be intact.

 

[MikeB]

Yes, works great.

Also to look for EOL

What is EOL?


I planned on taking some pictures and posting one up here to see if you guys can help me make heads or tails. :unsure:

I have my Elk on order, should be in next week.

 

[Digger]

Yes, works great.

Also to look for EOL

What is EOL?


I planned on taking some pictures and posting one up here to see if you guys can help me make heads or tails. :unsure:

I have my Elk on order, should be in next week.

Mike,

If I remember correctly most DSC panels use a 4.7K ohm end of line resistor (EOL) and the ELK requires a 2.2K ohm EOL. So if the installer did use EOL Resistors you will probably need to replace them. The ELK will have new ones included.

 

[CollinR]

EOL is just a simple resistor installed inline or across the switch, it lets the alarm know the wires have not been cut.

End of Line Resistors defined at Cocoontech.com

Most alarms you have to go out of your way to disable EOL protection so I would assume they are there.

9:10 they are in the panel with the control. :unsure:

I was more concerned about a series in the 2nd floor, often I will install the EOL there. I not terribly difficult to find but could stumble a newb.

 

[eufreka]

Most keypads have the zones listed on them. When I was documenting my system prior to swapping in an Elk, I just went to each door/window and violated it (left it open) and then looked on the keypad to see which number lit up just to verify.

On my prior alarm panel, the zones were numbered, as was "bell" for the siren, keypad and aux power, so it was easy to tag each wire prior to removal (and to write down specific wire colors...particularly for power for motions, etc.). The numbers were on the PCB itself, so look *CLOSELY*.

I can assure you that it was easier than I anticipated...and I had never touched an alarm panel before.