Omni LTe Automation Erratic or Non-Existent

Pete, you said in your Sept 4 post "The PCS/HAI Repeater is the same device". Do you mean it does the same thing as JVDE XTBIIR...I thought the XTBIIR was just for X-10...if I get that, do I have to get thge PCS/HAI repeater to strengthen the UPB signals? Is there a less-expensive way to strengthen the UPB?
 
Thanks for clarifying about the serial ports on the LTe. I thought, because there was a port right next to where the ethernet plugs in to the board, that it was ethernet as well. I looked more carefully after reading your post and see that it is marked "X-10".
 
"The PCS/HAI Repeater is the same device"
 
The PCS / HAI UPB repeater is the same device.  One has the Leviton / HAI logo on it and the other one has the PCS logo on it.
 
HAI UPBSplit-Phase Repeater
 
I originally purchased a UPB repeater due to power line noise coming in to my fuse panel. (pool pump next door).
 
It does amplify everything including noise.
 
 
The JVDE XTBIIR is an X10 TW-523 emulator on steroids which talks to two phases in your fuse panel.  I got one just for X10 which I still utilize.  
 
do I have to get the PCS/HAI repeater to strengthen the UPB signals?
 
No.  You just to find out where the power line noise is coming from and fix that first.
 
Thanks Pete...I am measuring noise on most circuits at 3-9mv. At what level do you consider the noise excessive or detrimental to performance? Also, does noise on one circuit affect the transmission of X-10 throughout the house, or only on that circuit?
 
At what level do you consider the noise excessive or detrimental to performance? 
 
Any noise / any level.
 
Could be from anywhere.  Best way to check (low on the WAF) is one circuit / breaker at a time. 
 
Old transformers, UPSs, LED lighting, motors, TVs et al.

Just related to X10 do have a whole home filter at ingress of main electric. This involves removing the ground wire to the fuse panel. Best way to do this is to remove the meter outside first.  The filter works fine for X10 noise but did not work for me relating to UPB noise.
 
Whole home X10 blocking filter.
 
One day neighbor installed an inground pool pump and it created a time scheduled UPB noise.  This is where I ended up using a UPB repeater.
 
That said a couple of years later a lightning strike took out most of the neighbors appliances, pool pump, alarm et al and the neighbor cleaned up his electric professionally versus a mickey mouse "el cheapo" set up.
 
See in the picture how the neutral lead passes through the filter.  It is not a clamp.  You have to feed the neutral wire through the device.
 
IE: been tinkering with X10 since 1978.  It was only automation used until the 2000's UPB automation.  
 
Here using the old Elk X10 ESM-1 meter and leave it on next to the main server rack.  Power to the rack is via 3 15AMP breakers in the panel.  The UPB PIM and X10 PIMs are on separate breakers.  The meter is connected to one of the 3 15Amp circuits that feed the server rack.
 
There is a separate section here for a Leviton 42" panel and HAI panels which is also on a separate circuit.
 
Last time saw noise on meter was right before AC compressor went out.  My main furnace fan went out a few months ago but didn't see any noise from it.
 
What I did here was run conduit out of the bottom of the fuse panel and it goes to 4 - single duplex outlets with autonomous breakers.  It is kind of a waste of circuits as there are no loads on these devices.
 
Have played a bunch here with the panel separating / adding circuits and feeds via existing conduit.  If you are not familiar or feel confident about this stuff then it is better to hire an electrician.
 
does noise on one circuit affect the transmission of X-10 throughout the house, or only on that circuit?
 
The source of the noise can be on one circuit.  The transmission of the noice can go to all circuits.  This is where you can shut off one breaker at a time to see where the source(s) of noise are.
 
If you do not want to deal with any powerline noise then you can change over to using ZWave or Zigbee inwall switches connected to a Leviton HAI ZWave PIM or Leviton HAI Zigbee PIM.  The ZWave PIM is just a serially connected device to your panel.  The Zigbee ZIM is a powered serial device plugged in to your panel.   
 
Here went from in wall X10 to in wall UPB switches a few years ago.  I have tinkered with in wall ZWave / Zigbee switches and devices.
 
Doing a second house with all wireless / MQTT because it is easy and cheap  Ring Alarm, WiFi switches and Alexa devices. 
 
Just purchased "el cheapo" GoSund in wall dimmers for around $20 (or less) a piece.  Way different than purchasing 3 UPB in Wall switches.
 
I really have never been much of a wireless automation person and still prefer my wired OmniPro alarm sensors.
 
There are a few Cocoontech Leviton / HAI panel users that have switched out of power line going to ZWave or Zigbee.
 
You can combine and use X10, UPB, ZWave and Zigbee transitioning over a room at a time or floor at a time.  Here configured a ZWave / Zigbee PIMs and tested devices but never switched my in wall switches from UPB to ZWave or Zigbee.
 
You cannot utilize any ZWave / Zigbee sensors (temperature, PIRs, contact switches) with the panel.
 
Leviton HAI X10 or UPB control of switches can be shared with automation software / separate PIMs. 
 
Leviton / HAI Zigbee / ZWave control of switches cannot be shared with a separate automation software Zigbee or ZWave PIMs.

So automation in general can be:

1 - powerline (old now) X10 and UPB - works with the Leviton HAI panel.
2 - powerline / wireless hybrid (Insteon) - doesn't work with Levition HAI panel.
3 - propietary wireless ZWave or Zigbee - works with the Leviton HAI panel.
4 - 802.11 (WiFi) MQTT Devices - doesn't work with the Leviton HAI panel.

I am tinkering recently with WiFi devices which are based on ESPXXX chips. These are low cost switches / sensors sold managed in the cloud by your cell phone.

I do not manage any of my test devices in the cloud; rather have upgraded the firmware on these devices to using Tasmota/Espurna firmware and using MQTT only to managed these devices.

Each of these devices can be managed via their own web interfaces and are not dependant on a controller as you can time schedule these devices with built in schedulers. They can also be controlled by Google Voice and or Amazon Alexa.

They cannot be managed or controlled directly by the Leviton HAI panel.
 
They are little WiFi connected computers.  It's starts to get a bit overwhelming the more you add to your WiFi network.  The only way to manage them is via a WiFi connection.  That said they work fine without a WiFi connection on their own if the WiFi connection gets disconnected.
 
With many Insteon / X10 users (close frequencies) one of the major noisemakers is Chamberlain garage door openers. I have an AC motor unit that makes my Insteon system work about 98%. I also have a DC motor unit, with battery backup, that cripples my Insteon signals down to about 50% throughout the whole house. Every Insteon device is a repeater, so once the noise gets into it, It can be repeated everywhere.
 
A couple of Insteon FilterLincs resolved the two noise makers for me. They are tuned noise filters that absorb and reject passthrough of Insteon frequencies. They would likely work just as well for X10 and are as easy as any wallwart to use.
 
Early adopter of Insteon here (Insteon salad days - constant firmware updates). 
 
I upgraded all of my inwall switches from X10 to Insteon. 
 
I managed the new Insteon switches via OmniPro X10 which did work for me until the switches started to fall apart on me.
 
I do recall now at one EHExpo in Orland Florida complaining to then HAI reps why they did not adopt Insteon and then the next year complaining to the Insteon reps about their debacle invention of Insteon which to me was a flop and a waste of an investment.  I was loud both times and I didn't care.
 
Not sure today if Insteon still talks powerline X10. 
 
I do remember though that the old Insteon combo X10/Insteon serial PIM was an X10 power line noise generator.
 
Working on the circuit map of the entire house and garage. Will purchase RR501 and PalmPad to make sending commands easier, then record with the Monterey. I do have many LED lights on dimmers...seems Jeff Volp's XTB-ANR would have been a solution at the breaker panel, but now he no longer sells those. Any way to efficiently and effectively stop noise from LEDs when they are on several circuits?
 
I really appreciate all of your help.
 
The assumption here is that you have X10 dimmers used with LED lighting eh?
 
I have now converted all of the lighting in my home to dimmable LED style / Clear bulbs with LED filaments.
 
In the old house found that the CCFL lamps which were not on automated switches themselves caused powerline noise.
 
Here do not have any in wall X10 switches and only utilize UPB in wall switches which can be set to dim or just switch on or off via Upstart.
 
Check on the Jeff Volp site whether X10 in wall dimmer switches can be noise generators with LED lighting too.
 
The Jeff Volp X10 dual phased XTBIIR worked really well here even with the high failing motor power line noise from the outside AC compressor.
 
For the outside coach lamps which are mostly glass found clear Philips dimmable candelabra bulbs on Amazon.  
 
BTW went to Traverse City vicinity for a themed wedding a couple of years ago.  It was at a resort.  Very nice place.
 
The assumption here is that you have X10 dimmers used with LED lighting eh?
 
I have mostly x-10 dimmers, or Insteon, but UPB dimmer switches controlling my 3 sets of outside LED lights. Most inside lights are still incandescent, although I have a few LED's indoors as well. I do not have any CFL's.
 
Has anyone made a replacement for Volp's XTB-ANR which he discontinued?
 
Just received my PalmPad and receiver...more circuit testing next week.
 
Traverse City...maybe the wedding you attended was at Grand Traverse Resort...beautiful views from top of the tower hotel building!
 
Way back here transitioned over from pure X10 in wall switches to inwall Insteon switches with the OmniPro 2 panel controlling the Insteon X10 pieces of the in wall switches.  A little bit later installed the Volp TW-523 dual phased controller (XTB-IIR).  I also removed Jeff's first X10 XTB booster at the time as it wasn't needed anymore.  This was 100% incandescent lighting.  I always refer to this Insteon testing as the "salad" days because I was constantly upgrading the Insteon PIM connected to Homeseer at the time.  Early Insteon switches had issues with failing (mostly mechanical though).
 
 
The OmniPanel 2 ==> XTB-IIR ==> worked fine with the combo Insteon X10 devices.  I removed the Insteon switches because they started to fail and eventually swapped them all out for UPB switches.
 
Has anyone made a replacement for Volp's XTB-ANR which he discontinued?
 
I do not know of anyone else.  BUT haven't looked since switching over X10 to XTB stuff.
 
I use UPB on my outdoor coach lamps.  I was using clear crystal looking bulbs but never could find anything in an LED dimmable bulb until recently using Philips candlabra LED clear bulbs.
 
Might be easier if you connect a UPB PIM to a laptop and walk around the house with it for testing for noise with Upstart.
 
For X10 noise you could walk around with a signal meter and use your laptop PCA to turn on and off your X10 switches.
 
You can also run Homeseer / X10 in debug mode looking for signal strength et al.  Thinking Homeseer does a 30 day free trial.
 
Would any of these be better than another, or would any of them not work at all?
 
https://www.amazon.com/X10-XPPF-Plug-Noise-Filter/dp/B0002M5OJI/ref=pd_lpo_60_t_0/145-6691576-1759439?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002M5OJI&pd_rd_r=81d6836e-940e-4d47-b3e7-ddd2b7dd1237&pd_rd_w=h20rj&pd_rd_wg=1TeXc&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=JEVEZ3F31BF9WZK6S5XY&psc=1&refRID=JEVEZ3F31BF9WZK6S5XY
 
https://www.amazon.com/Simply-Automated-Filter-Isolator-ZNF10A-W/dp/B00152ONQE/ref=pd_di_sccai_1/145-6691576-1759439?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00152ONQE&pd_rd_r=9a4e3e0b-4136-47a8-be4b-90fad93230aa&pd_rd_w=dB3Cd&pd_rd_wg=iM27A&pf_rd_p=5415687b-2c9d-46da-88a4-bbcfe8e07f3c&pf_rd_r=XBYKGHQTJC3R9KFW5P0Z&psc=1&refRID=XBYKGHQTJC3R9KFW5P0Z
 
https://www.amazon.com/X10-XPF-Wired-Filter-3-Wire/dp/B01NAKD1HK/ref=pd_di_sccai_2/145-6691576-1759439?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01NAKD1HK&pd_rd_r=9a4e3e0b-4136-47a8-be4b-90fad93230aa&pd_rd_w=dB3Cd&pd_rd_wg=iM27A&pf_rd_p=5415687b-2c9d-46da-88a4-bbcfe8e07f3c&pf_rd_r=XBYKGHQTJC3R9KFW5P0Z&psc=1&refRID=XBYKGHQTJC3R9KFW5P0Z
 
https://www.amazon.com/PCS-PulseWorx-Line-Choke-Filter/dp/B002C7PBIK/ref=pd_di_sccai_3/145-6691576-1759439?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002C7PBIK&pd_rd_r=9a4e3e0b-4136-47a8-be4b-90fad93230aa&pd_rd_w=dB3Cd&pd_rd_wg=iM27A&pf_rd_p=5415687b-2c9d-46da-88a4-bbcfe8e07f3c&pf_rd_r=XBYKGHQTJC3R9KFW5P0Z&psc=1&refRID=XBYKGHQTJC3R9KFW5P0Z
 
https://www.amazon.com/Simply-Automated-Filter-Isolator-ZNF10A-P/dp/B00152ONPK/ref=pd_di_sccai_4/145-6691576-1759439?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00152ONPK&pd_rd_r=9a4e3e0b-4136-47a8-be4b-90fad93230aa&pd_rd_w=dB3Cd&pd_rd_wg=iM27A&pf_rd_p=5415687b-2c9d-46da-88a4-bbcfe8e07f3c&pf_rd_r=XBYKGHQTJC3R9KFW5P0Z&psc=1&refRID=XBYKGHQTJC3R9KFW5P0Z
 
They all work.
 
Should find your noise source first.  How are you doing finding the noise generating circuit(s)?
 
An easy way to do this is just shut off one fuse panel breaker at a time.
 
As I am getting farther with this, if I put a noise filter at the breaker itself (for the whole circuit), is that going to filter out or interfere with the x-10 signals?
 
Which one did you install?
 
Please indicate the link.
 
The large whole home / whole fuse panel one sits at the top with two wires for the two phases and wraps around the neutral wire.  
 
This one will filter out noise coming from outside of your home.
 
Whole Home noise block
 
The sell 15 AMP noise filters. These are for devices that draw up to 15 AMPs.  
 
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