Ring Pro Doorbell and Elk 960/930

Thanks ano - that sounds very logical.  The ELK will not be seeing the current draw of the ELK but only the current draw when the chime is triggered. But, think I will need an additional pair or wires up to the chime to connect it after the ring pro which is in the chime box .  I will have to see if I can somehow rewire it to have the ring pro down by the ELK panel and stick with the existing prewire to the doorbell and the chime.
 
Solved- i switched from the 16v-10va transformer to a 24v- 20va transformer. Since the ELK930 looks for a 900ma draw, increasing the voltage decreased the current draw. Also, a side benefit is the doorbell ring is louder.

Will continue to monitor but hoping is solved.
 
I'm trying to do something similar, but I have no mechanical door bell- I have a Panasonic KX-T1232 telephone system with a KX-T30865 Door Box.  I want to add a Ring Pro to the front door, but keep the Panasonic Door Box to answer the door when we're home. 
 
My thought is to hook up the Elk930 to detect the Ring Pro button push, and use the 930 output (through a relay if necessary) to trigger the button on the 30865 Door Box.
 
Then I can answer from either any telephone when at home, or from my cell when I'm not.
 
Has anyone done this?  Not sure if I can just use a resistor to simulate the chime box, in series with a 24VAC transformer and the Ring Pro, or if it's more complex.
 
I'd love some advice if anyone has successfully done this!!
 
Thanks in advance!
 
Orrin
 
orrinc said:
I'm trying to do something similar, but I have no mechanical door bell- I have a Panasonic KX-T1232 telephone system with a KX-T30865 Door Box.  I want to add a Ring Pro to the front door, but keep the Panasonic Door Box to answer the door when we're home. 
 
My thought is to hook up the Elk930 to detect the Ring Pro button push, and use the 930 output (through a relay if necessary) to trigger the button on the 30865 Door Box.
 
Then I can answer from either any telephone when at home, or from my cell when I'm not.
 
Has anyone done this?  Not sure if I can just use a resistor to simulate the chime box, in series with a 24VAC transformer and the Ring Pro, or if it's more complex.
 
I'd love some advice if anyone has successfully done this!!
 
Thanks in advance!
 
Orrin
Did you ever complete this? Sounds like a cool idea
 
I have the exact same setup. 930 and ring pro doorbell, provided power kit installed. Also false triggers the 930 when the IR led lights are on at night! I will also upgrade to a 24V AC transformer to see if it helps. Can you confirm you never get false triggers on the 930 anymore? Thanks.
 
ano said:
Are you hooking the 930 up to the power transformer?  Are you trying to detect motion, or only when they press the doorbell?  If you connect it at the transformer, then YES the camera, IR lights and even charging the battery become part of that 900ma limit.  Instead you need to hook the 930 in series with the doorbell chime AFTER the Ring Pro power adapter.  Then the 930 will respond to the doorbell chime just like it was connected to a plain-old doorbell. So DON'T follow the ELK 930 directions. Instead, connect it in series with the chime.
 This is exactly what my problem was. The Elk 930 and the chime must be regarded as a unit in terms of bypassing using the power kit. I rewired using this approach today instead of just bypassing the chime with the power kit and have not gotten any false ELK 930 trigger despite the Ring Pro running full tilt with night vision etc. Thanks!! I did not have to change my transformer which is putting out 20V w/o load.
 
I was getting ready to order the Ring Pro and an Elk 930 and wanted to make sure I'm hooking it up properly.
 
My current setup is
- Spore LED Doorbell <-> Elk M1G Zone 
- When Elk Zone Violated -> triggers Elk M1G Output 7 -> triggers C1 input of Elk 124 -> triggers custom sound from speaker out of 124 -> Elk M1G Speaker Output 1 to speakers behind my keypads throughout the house
 
With the Ring I clearly need more voltage so I was thinking:
-  Plug-in Adapter (https://shop.ring.com/products/plug-in-adapter - 24V AC at 20 VA) ->  
- (+) to Ring Pro
- (-) to Elk 930 Input #1. 
- (-) from Elk 930 Input #2 to (-) Ring Pro
-> Elk 930 Output and Negative -> Elk M1G Zone
- When Elk Zone Violated -> triggers Elk M1G Output 7 -> triggers C1 input of Elk 124 -> triggers custom sound from speaker out of 124 -> Elk M1G Speaker Output 1
 
Do you think this will work to avoid false triggers to the 930?  I wasn't following what you meant by putting the 930 in series with the chime after the Ring Power Pro Power Adapter (I'm not using either).  
 
Thank you
 
ano said:
Are you hooking the 930 up to the power transformer?  Are you trying to detect motion, or only when they press the doorbell?  If you connect it at the transformer, then YES the camera, IR lights and even charging the battery become part of that 900ma limit.  Instead you need to hook the 930 in series with the doorbell chime AFTER the Ring Pro power adapter.  Then the 930 will respond to the doorbell chime just like it was connected to a plain-old doorbell. So DON'T follow the ELK 930 directions. Instead, connect it in series with the chime.
 
Came across this via Google search for Ring Pro + ELK 930, as I am in the same boat as the OP after installing my Ring Pro yesterday.
 
For years, I've had just a standard HeathZenith mechanical doorbell, tied to front and backdoor lighted doorbell buttons.
The 930 is installed on one leg of the doorbell transformer (16v/10va), which is mounted on the side of my electrical panel in the basement.
Been using the 930 contact closure output to drive a digital input on a control system, which in turn triggers a relay for a strobe light (think old-school phone-flasher, but for the doorbell, as it's hard to hear with music cranked, etc.).
 
I've now installed a Ring Pro in place of the front doorbell button. It works quite well so far (aside from the 2s delay between the button press and mechanical chime, which is a whole other topic), but I now either get random triggers or no change at all on the 930 contact closure output.
 
At one point the 930 output latched and never opened, but there was no trigger (this was all during the day while testing after I installed the Ring Pro).
 
I've read where some have installed standard window sensors right on the chime itself, which get triggered from the magnetic field when the solenoid moves.
This is certainly something to be considered, but it's apparently not 100% reliable, plus I'm not sure if I would get a trigger for both front + rear, not to mention I don't have extra wires for this at the chime.
 
I then read here about using a higher voltage transformer. I happened to have a Honeywell 24v/40va transformer on hand and tried it, but no change whatsoever.
 
There seems to be another potential solution here from ano, but I'm not quite sure how I would wire the 930 "in series with the doorbell chime AFTER the Ring Pro power adapter".
My Ring Pro came with the Pro Power Kit v2. This one attaches in parallel to the FRONT and TRANS terminals on the chime:
https://support.ring.com/hc/article_attachments/115018392806/Connect_PPK.png
 
Can someone provide a wiring diagram as to how this would be done? I'm assuming it involves getting at the back of the chime terminals?
If so, would I put it on the TRANS lead? I'd still like to get a closure from both front and rear doorbell triggers.
 
Any other suggestions or potential solutions would be most appreciated!
 
I had the random triggers too and explained a few posts back that you need to think of the elk930 and the chime as a unit. I.e. any wiring diagram showing a chime you put the elk930 right next to it as if chime&elk930 form a single device. Once you hook it up like that the problem goes away. I have not had any false or missed elk930 triggers in 6 months! I have two elk930s, front&back door 100% reliable
 
Thanks for the reply guho.
I was unable to respond due to only being able to post once a day with a new account.
I get what you're saying about putting it next to the chime and having them act as a single unit, but I'm still confused as to the actual wiring.
What's throwing me off is the fact that the power pack is installed in parallel across the FRONT and TRANS terminals on the mechanical chime.
 
Are you saying remove the wire AND the leg of the power pack currently attached to the FRONT terminal, insert both into one side of the INPUT terminal on the 930, then the other side of the 930 INPUT terminal to the FRONT terminal on the chime?
 
I also can't upload any files or add links yet. I made 2 diagrams, one showing the way everything is wired now, the other showing what I believe is how you are saying to insert the ELK 930.
 
Will post them here when I can.
 
 
 
The problem with the Ring and similar doorbell cameras like Skybell is that they draw the power they need through the doorbell chime itself.  If the power draw is too high, it causes false activation of the chime.  This power draw can change during the day or night when the IR LEDs are activated.
 
I haven't taken a Ring power pack apart, but I suspect it is little more than a high power resistor meant to bypass some of the current required by the Ring around the chime, in order to prevent it from activating.   The trouble is, that current may still pass through the 930 depending on how you wire it up.  In your diagram, you're using the power pack to bypass both the 930 and chime, which is good.  But then, when the doorbell button is pressed, some of the current will still bypass the 930, and it may not activate as it should.
 
A better approach would be to separate the chime from the Ring and 930, and use a relay that is triggered by the 930 to activate the chime.
You'll need a resistor to replace the current load of the chime so that the 930 sees a 900 mA load when the button is pressed.
 
Here's a diagram that I drew previously for a Skybell implementation.  The 924 relay has two sets of SPDT contacts,  so if you want to use the 930 to also trigger a zone input on the M1, the second set of relay contacts can be used to do that.
 
index.php
 
Thanks RAL - Very much appreciate the explanation and the diagram.
That certainly seems like a good option, but I'd rather not have to add any more components to the setup.
Since guho said his config has been working without issue, I would to see if my proposed wiring matches his and give that a shot first.
 
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