Sprinkler System

Anthony A.

Active Member
has anyone tied in a sprinkler system to their OPII? i have 6 zones that i would like to monitor/setup macros with my HAI, and my old hunter controller just went bad so i need to get something new. i would prefer to have the actual unit be setup from the controller (which is located in the garage) and simply monitor when it turns on/off and have control. is this possible?
 
has anyone tied in a sprinkler system to their OPII? i have 6 zones that i would like to monitor/setup macros with my HAI, and my old hunter controller just went bad so i need to get something new. i would prefer to have the actual unit be setup from the controller (which is located in the garage) and simply monitor when it turns on/off and have control. is this possible?

I used the HAI relay 8 with my omnipro 2 to run my sprinklers, my sprinkler control wires go to my structured wiring enclosure but I think you could locate the relay 8 board where your existing sprinkler controller is and run a wire to your OP2. I just used the standard rainbird replacement power supply to power the board/sprinkler valves.
 
I think most of the controller manufacturers offer controllers with serial control capability. Might take some digging to find one, though. Last time I looked, the control specs weren't available online for the manufacturer of my system (I think it's Rainbird).
 
I use a Rain8 UPB with my Omni, works great.

Just wrote a simple Omni program to schedule and its great to use my iPhone for manual sprinkler control went I am testing/working on them.

I have a rain sensor connected to an input on my Omni, this is incorporated into the schedule program to prevent watering if it has rained, but I also log and display a message for rain on the console which is a plus.
 
I use a Rain8 UPB with my Omni, works great.

Just wrote a simple Omni program to schedule and its great to use my iPhone for manual sprinkler control went I am testing/working on them.

I have a rain sensor connected to an input on my Omni, this is incorporated into the schedule program to prevent watering if it has rained, but I also log and display a message for rain on the console which is a plus.

Ditto - same setup for me. I've been running it for several years with no problems.
 
One advantage the Rain8 unit would have is they have an internal 'max' timer in the unit itself that you set in case of a failure of the communications between the Rain8 and your control panel.
 
One advantage the Rain8 unit would have is they have an internal 'max' timer in the unit itself that you set in case of a failure of the communications between the Rain8 and your control panel.

This feature pretty much sold me on the Rain 8, vs homebrewing a solution, but I have to admit I don't think it has ever missed on off and the Omni relay board has also been 100% rock solid for controlling my garage doors and low voltage lighting.

UPB make placement very convenient, I was simply able to locate it where my old timer was without running LV wire there from the relay board.

An interesting side note that soon I am going to do an automatic pool filler using an unused zone on the Rain8 with another sprinkler valve. I am just going to have a pipe point up at a 45 angle from under my deck to arc over and fill the pool. At first it will have no float sensor. I am simply going to make a button in the omni do a manual on in that zone for probably an hour at a time, I have forgotten about the hose running and filling the pool one to many times B). If can track the evaporation rates better I might schedule a fill weekly or something. So dual use on the Rain 8 for me.
 
Not to tangent but that seems like alot of water added to the pool. Are you sure you don't have a leak? Have you done the bucket test for evaporation?
 
This feature pretty much sold me on the Rain 8, vs homebrewing a solution, but I have to admit I don't think it has ever missed on off and the Omni relay board has also been 100% rock solid for controlling my garage doors and low voltage lighting.

I am just going to have a pipe point up at a 45 angle from under my deck to arc over and fill the pool. At first it will have no float sensor. I am simply going to make a button in the omni do a manual on in that zone for probably an hour at a time,

Yea, no doubt you will probably ever need that internal timer feature, but I have read a couple of posts here where people come home to a small lake :angry:

As far as your pool fill, will the Rain-8 let you have an open zone for that length of time (one hour)?
 
As far as your pool fill, will the Rain-8 let you have an open zone for that length of time (one hour)?

I believe the max open time for the Rain 8 is 2 hours per zone which is plenty.

I actually do have a leak I discovered recently in my pool that I am working on repairing, but even before that evaporative losses made filling the pool some a once a month chore at least, and in the drier but still warm times of the year like now, multiple times per month.

I am in Florida, from what I understand in drier climates out west a auto pool filler is a must, typically plumbed in to the pool lines. I really don't want to get into that as you have to take special precaution to prevent back-flow into the potable water system. So simply having a sprinkler valve operate a line shooting into the pool through open air will be safe, reliable, cheap, and provide some entertainment with the kids an dog when it is on :angry:.
 
Do you have a screen enclosure? I've had this pool for almost 20 years and I can probably count on my hands how many times I've had to grab the hose and add water. Unless you have a leak, alot of activity with kids splashing water out, etc. you should not have to add water even monthly. Even if we get that downpour of 1" every month or so its usually enough to keep the water level close.

The bucket test is pretty much the standard for testing evaporation vs leaks and I can explain an easy way to look for leaks in the common areas. I'm not saying the auto fill is not a good idea, just that you shouldn't need that much water. Anyway, let me know if you want more info on how to do the bucket test or check for leaks.

Are you using the epoxy to repair the leak?
 
Did the bucket test both before and after having the leak. When we first moved in a few years ago the loss of water during the drier season, like now, was startling, thought I had a leak, but did not. Confirmed with coworkers that evaporation was actually occurring at that rate, and did a bucket test.

Couple months ago, water started leaving very quickly, did bucket test again, definitely more than evaporation. I am pretty sure it is in the pressure side of the pool plumbing, just need to track it down and find the leak. No cracks in the pool, a friend had that, and bond beam crack, used epoxy I believe.

Have a screen enclosure, but when it doesn't rain for more than a month and the humidity start going down while still warm sunny temps, the evaporation is very noticeable . I am in Tampa.
 
I had a Rainbird ESP originally installed with my sprinkler system. I called / wrote to Rainbird on maybe being able to tap into my controller. I had no luck with them. I gutted it and replaced it with two Rain-8's. Today they are controlled by MCS Sprinklers via Homeseer. Its been working fine now for about 5-6 years. I believe there are a few folks around here which are using their OPII's, writing some programs to automate their sprinkler system.


I had a leak in my pool. The bucket test proved it. The pool is built about 8 feet or so above ground level with the pipes going to ground level filters, pump, etc. The pool guy stated that having an elevated pool can cause some plumbing problems. Bought the house in the 80's and it was originally built around 1954. Didn't ever have any pool problems until new pool was installed around 2000 (did a tear down of the old house).

I did have the cement checked around the pool by a pool company. He just took a steel rod and tapped it against the decking. It turned out to be the pool low voltage lighting shell which was leaking a bit. He sealed it and its been fine now for the last two years. I'm south of Tampa gulf side between Sarasota and Bradenton.
 
The most common place for a pool leak is around the fittings and usually the pool inlet. What happens is the force of the water coming in can create a suction if there is any kind of crack around the inlet fitting. It's less common around the niche and skimmer but can certainly happen. A good way to test for a leak is to get a syringe and fill it with dyed water (add a few drops of food coloring to a cup of water and fill syringe from it). Then squirt the dye under water around all the fittings/niche/skimmer. If you see the dye get 'sucked' into the wall then there is the leak, otherwise the dye will just disperse and quickly disappear in the pool. This works best and is most pronounced around inlet/pressure leaks but can work anywhere - just squirt the dye close to the wall. If you find the leak this way just get some pool epoxy and patch the area and you're good to go.
 
I have a rain sensor connected to an input on my Omni, this is incorporated into the schedule program to prevent watering if it has rained, but I also log and display a message for rain on the console which is a plus.

I'm installing a Rain8UPB Pro to an existing OmniPro II-based system as we're having irrigation put in. I've got a rain sensor as well, but having some difficulty figuring out 1) how to wire it into the system and 2) how to program it in PC Access as a zone. I'm very familiar with PC Access, so don't need help with the programming.

There is a 3.5mm input on the Rain8 for a sensor, but I see that others are wiring it into a relay board on the Omnipro. Also, I’ve seen examples where RAIN SENSOR is configured as a zone, thereby allowing HAI to disable irrigation when the rain sensor is closed (wet). How does the HAI system request status on this rain sensor input?

Sorry for all the questions - thanks!

Patrick
 
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