TM751 or RR501 Transceiver

The guy from Sherwood Forest said:
The reason you move the MR26A away from the computer is not because of cable loss (because you don't use any mods/antennas) but because of the computer interference that would reduce reception??, or is it just to get your MR26A high say to ceiling height?

That is correct. I firmly believe that the majority of reception problems can be traced back to a pc that at the rf level is deafening....the addition of height is just icing on the cake. Get that thing AWAY from the computer room
 
I firmly believe that the majority of reception problems can be traced back to a pc that at the rf level is deafening

Ah, thanks for the explanation. I FINALLY understand all aspects of this "magic".

Now I will proceed to cut down the mightiest tree with ... A HERRING!!! :)

BSR
 
Here are some definitions I found a while ago when I was pondering the same 'which one should I use and what is the difference anyway' question.

TM751:
a stripped-down transciever x10.com invented to put in the Firecracker Freebie package that got so many people lured into HA. Can only see one housecode. In a fairly small box with an antenna sticking out; has a built-in "appliance module" functionality, but it's limited to unitcode 1. You can not turn that built-in appliance module on and off from a CM11A or Ocelot, only from a Firecracker or PalmPad or other RF sender, because the TM751 can only send on the power line, not receive. TM751s are sometimes reported to be the most sensitive to Endless Dim Syndrome(tm).

RR501:
The "normal" transciever, it looks like a TM751 only in a box about 50% larger, and it mostly does the same things as a TM751, only without all the limits. Most of them have a switch on them that let you change the built-in appliance module from 1 to 9, though some of the other-labelled ones don't. You can control its appliance module by both RF and power line because it sends and receives (I believe that this is the 'two way' they talk about but that is just my own WAG). Many folks report RR501s have better range than TM751s, especially with the antenna horizontal. However, this, and prevalence of Endless Dim Syndrome(tm), are inconsistent; some have had worse luck with the RR501 on both counts.

MR26A:
This unit looks and works entirely different. It hooks to your computer's serial port, not the power line, so it's of no use to you unless you're running software -- like HomeSeer -- that can use the input. The default configuration is for HomeSeer to both react to what it sees, and rebroadcast it on the power line, so you can hook it up, unplug your transcievers, and off you go. Yes, that plural was intentional, because unlike the TM751 and RR501, the MR26A can see all 16 housecodes! It's also reported that you can get a better range from it with some modifications. If you are directly controlling a light from a PalmPad, it's the same speed, but if you're triggering a HomeSeer macro from a PalmPad or motion detector, it's faster by 0.6sec or more. Finally, it's immune to Endless Dim Syndrome(tm). The only problem it seems to have is a tendency to turn stray cosmic rays into error messages clogging up your HomeSeer log file.

WGL's W800:
I don't have a specific definition of this one but the homeseer board has a forum devoted to it. It is what I use and I have never had any issues with range or receiving or connectivity etc.

Hope this helps,
HH
 
that's a great overview HH, mind if I use some of this in one of my upcoming introduction guide to home automation? thanks
 
E,
Fine with me, but I'm not the original author. Back at the beginning of my HA odyssey I found these explanations somewhere on the internet. I can't even remember now if it was on the Homeseer forum or somewhere else. If it was on Homeseer it was two board changes ago and I cannot find it now when I do a search. I happened to have it in a Word Doc on my HDD from when I had the same questions because I have a bad habit of packratting files.
I would think you could do some re-writing of it and be in the clear. I notice when I posted it that it could use a little cleaning up anyway. :)
HH

Found the original thread on Homeseer Forum. The author was Hunter Green (what ever happened to him anyway?).

http://ubb.homeseer.com/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=...6713#6682936713
 
I am indeed planning on rewording and adding to it, just wasn't sure if you wrote it or not, don't want to step on anyone's toes :)
 
For the benefit of any NEWBIES reading through these Archives, there are a few "discrepancies" in this otherwise very informative post compared to both an old Hunter Green post that I located today on the HomeSeer Forums and my knowledge of how these devices work.

hhnew said:
Fine with me, but I'm not the original author... ...Found the original thread on Homeseer Forum. The author was Hunter Green (what ever happened to him anyway?).

http://ubb.homeseer.com/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=...6713#6682936713
I've highlighted those original portions in RED and added my comments in GREEN.

hhnew said:
Here are some definitions I found a while ago when I was pondering the same 'which one should I use and what is the difference anyway' question.

TM751:
a stripped-down transciever x10.com invented to put in the Firecracker Freebie package that got so many people lured into HA. Can only see one housecode at a time; like most X-10 devices including the RR501. See MR26A, V572 and W800 for ALL HouseCode functionality. In a fairly small box with an antenna sticking out; has a built-in "appliance module" functionality, but it's limited to unitcode 1. You can not turn that built-in appliance module on and off from a CM11A or Ocelot or any other PLC Transmitter, only from a Firecracker or PalmPad or other RF sender, because the TM751 can only send on the power line, not receive. TM751s are sometimes reported to be the most sensitive to Endless Dim Syndrome(tm).

RR501:
The "normal" transciever, it looks like a TM751 only in a box about 50% larger, and it mostly does the same things as a TM751, only without all the limits. Most of them have a switch on them that let you change the built-in appliance module from 1 to 9, though some of the other-labelled ones don't. You can control its appliance module by both RF and power line because it sends and receives (I believe that this is the 'two way' they talk about but that is just my own WAG). One-way and two-way actually indicate whether the device is a PLC Transmitter or Transceiver, such as the TW-513 vs the TW-523. A major benefit of later model RR501s is their ability to minimize PLC collisions by "listening" before transmitting (like the CM11A), but this has nothing to do with it being a two-way device since the TW-523, while two-way, doesn't "listen". Another feature of RR501s is their ability to REPORT STATUS (ON or OFF) to a software request (thanks rocco!). Many folks report RR501s have better range than TM751s, especially with the antenna horizontal. However, this, and prevalence of Endless Dim Syndrome(tm), are inconsistent; some have had worse luck with the RR501 on both counts.

MR26A:
This unit looks and works entirely different. It hooks to your computer's serial port, not the power line, so it's of no use to you unless you're running software -- like HomeSeer -- that can use the input. The default configuration is for HomeSeer to both react to what it sees, and rebroadcast it on the power line, so you can hook it up, unplug your transcievers, and off you go. Yes, that plural was intentional, because unlike the TM751 and RR501, the MR26A can see all 16 housecodes! It's also reported that you can get a better range from it with some modifications. If you are directly controlling a light from a PalmPad, it's the same speed, but if you're triggering a HomeSeer macro from a PalmPad or motion detector, it's faster by 0.6sec or more. Finally, it's immune to Endless Dim Syndrome(tm). The only problem it seems to have is a tendency to turn stray cosmic rays into error messages clogging up your HomeSeer log file.

WGL's W800:
I don't have a specific definition of this one but the homeseer board has a forum devoted to it. It is what I use and I have never had any issues with range or receiving or connectivity etc.

Hope this helps,
HH
HH, Please accept my comments in the positive manner for while they were intended...
 
hhnew said:
...Found the original thread on Homeseer Forum. The author was Hunter Green (what ever happened to him anyway?).

http://ubb.homeseer.com/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=...6713#6682936713
Originally posted by Hunter Green on January 15th, 2002 @ 06:08 AM in the HomeSeer Forums
  • RR501's and HC50RX's built-in appliance module is fully functional. TM751s will not respond to powerline commands, only RF, so can't be controlled by a CM11A, Ocelot, etc. but responds to a PalmPad, Firecracker, etc.

  • TM751 and HC50RX can only be unitcode 1. RR501 can be 1 or 9 at your choice.

  • RR501 and HC50RX are better at avoiding collisions on the powerline and waits its turn. TM751 just starts talking whenever it feels like.

  • Many people have reported differences in range, reliability, proneness to Endless Dim Syndrome(tm), and susceptibility to noise. The RR501/HC50RX wins on these points by a slight margin, by which I mean, people report the RR501/HC50RX to be the better at these criteria slightly more than half the time. At least that's how it seems to me; I haven't done a proper study. In any case, your mileage will vary.

  • The RR501/HC50RX's click seems a tiny bit louder to me.

  • The RR501/HC50RX is noticeably larger and might not fit into spaces the TM751 fits into.

  • There are differences of the internals that matter if you're going to open 'em up and fiddle with their insides. Check Ido's "fiddling with their insides" site if you want to know more.
HOMESEER: Wireless X10 Transceiver Module

NOTE: The HC50RX is the RR501 that X-10 made for RCA.
 
Additional differences between the RR501 and the TM751:

Both have a button on them that can toggle the built-in appliance module ON or OFF. However, the RR501 transmits an X10 ON or OFF for the appliance module's House/Unit code on the powerline when the button is pressed. The RR501 can also be polled for the state of it's appliance module (IE, It responds to "Status-Request" messages over the powerline).
 
rocco, thanks for mentioning the "Status Request" feature - I *knew* about it, but forgot to note it in my comments.

rocco said:
...However, the RR501 transmits an X10 ON or OFF for the appliance module's House/Unit code on the powerline when the button is pressed...
But, I just tried this ON/OFF "button press" test on two RR501s - a X-10 Powerhouse and a Stanley 360-3093 (looks the same) - and it didn't work on either. Both *DID* report Status properly (surprised me on the Stanley!), but neither logged any "button presses" in the ActiveHome Communications Log. [Just for fun, I tried the "button press" on two TM751s - nada there too.]
  • Where did you find this "tidbit"?
  • Does it work on any of your RR501s?
  • If YES, which RR501s do you own? (Maybe we can tie this to a "date code".)
NOTE: The 360-3093 is the RR501 that X-10 made for STANLEY.
 
I found this out be trying it. I plugged the RR501 in near my HomeSeer computer, and as I pressed the button, I saw the status change in HomeSeer. But I could be wrong about the conclusion. It's possible that HomeSeer was updating based on Status-Requests. I will have to test again later.

BTW, my RR501 is the IBM version that X10 made for the IBM Home-Director kit. The IBM number is "HD501 02K1040" and it is called "Home Director Remote Module".
 
I started off years ago with the 501 module and a remote.

"Upgraded" to the 721 when the 501 drove me nuts with the "clunk".

Just recently retired both of them (or gave them to my brother with a CM11A) and installed a W800RF32. Huge difference and now I can use the security modules too. $$$$ well spent IMHO.

Really nice plug-in for HS also.

-=dtperk :blink:
 
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