For you, sure. For others that find this thread, maybe not.Doesn't that go without saying?
Not trying to nit-pick, but since it hasn't been stated yet in this thread...
Thanks for letting us know what you use.
For you, sure. For others that find this thread, maybe not.Doesn't that go without saying?
Did you get this online or local? A quick search shows the true union 2000 series at over $400 for the AC version (says other voltages optional) on their site.I used a Spears True Union 2000 with their Electro 50 actuator.
Did you get this online or local? A quick search shows the true union 2000 series at over $400 for the AC version (says other voltages optional) on their site.
Does anyone have their HA panel automatically shut off the water valve when set to armed - away? Obviously it's great to have water sensors everywhere - but there are spots where it may not be practical - and turning off water when away could prevent a disastrous burst event.
However, I do wonder if turning off the pressure and turning it back on so frequently could lead to stresses on many of the other parts of plumbing system which may not be designed for frequent on/off pressure events?
The non-plumber in me says this should not be an issue at all since the lines are not empty. If the lines drained, that would be a different story.However, I do wonder if turning off the pressure and turning it back on so frequently could lead to stresses on many of the other parts of plumbing system which may not be designed for frequent on/off pressure events?
Does anyone have their HA panel automatically shut off the water valve when set to armed - away? Obviously it's great to have water sensors everywhere - but there are spots where it may not be practical - and turning off water when away could prevent a disastrous burst event.
However, I do wonder if turning off the pressure and turning it back on so frequently could lead to stresses on many of the other parts of plumbing system which may not be designed for frequent on/off pressure events?
Does anyone have their HA panel automatically shut off the water valve when set to armed - away? Obviously it's great to have water sensors everywhere - but there are spots where it may not be practical - and turning off water when away could prevent a disastrous burst event.
However, I do wonder if turning off the pressure and turning it back on so frequently could lead to stresses on many of the other parts of plumbing system which may not be designed for frequent on/off pressure events?
I wouldn't get a pvc valve. It might be cheaper but the pvc ball valve on my sprinkler system failed in 1 year with virually no use. Stick with stainless or brass. This is something you want to install and never worry about again.
I think it may be important to have an expansion tank near the water heater inlet if one is going to shut off the water main. Many municipalities require such a tank even without an automatic shutoff valve. The issue is that water in the water heater expands as it is heated, and unless one is drawing it off, it has nowhere to go other than back out the main feed to the house. The only expansion space in my house is the water hammer preventers at the washing machine. I'll have to add the cost of the tank to that of the WSV as I consider whether I should install a WSV.
I have to disagree here. Barring UV deterioration, a PVC value will be just fine. I have seen sprinkler valves (plastic ASV type) in direct sun still functioning 25+ years after install. On the flip side, I have seen brass ball and gate valves fail inside a year. Aggressive water is the biggest problem with any valve in this scenario, and it impacts all valves and seals regardless of the material, some deteriorating quicker than others.
Typically your seals will fail long before the body will, and a ball valve that is used on a regular basis will eventually fail, regardless if it is rated a continuous duty industrial valve or not. When it does fail, it will fail in a fashion you won't even be aware of until it is too late (i.e. no positive shutoff) unless you test for that condition on a regular basis.
If the valve is going to be exposed to UV, then I would probably lean towards lead free brass/bronze, stainless steel being really serious overkill.
If not exposed to UV, and you are already dealing with PVC, IMO there is no good reason not to use a PVC ball valve.
IF PVC were as good as stainless or brass, they wouldn't make stainless/brass. Certainly someone could make the worlds crapiest stainless vlave or the worlds best pvc valve, but QC issues being equal, a stainless valve will always outperform a pvc one.
Another post from the non-plumber in me...regardless of turning off the main feed or not, where is the expanded water supposed to be going anyway?I think it may be important to have an expansion tank near the water heater inlet if one is going to shut off the water main. Many municipalities require such a tank even without an automatic shutoff valve. The issue is that water in the water heater expands as it is heated, and unless one is drawing it off, it has nowhere to go other than back out the main feed to the house.
Another post from the non-plumber in me...regardless of turning off the main feed or not, where is the expanded water supposed to be going anyway?
How does water go "back out the main feed" unless there is a siphoning effect?