Work2Play said:
For keypad locations, I also like to have an 18/4 - it gives some extra flexibility; mainly each keypad if you use a KP2 can have an SP12 speaker behind it, but the speaker needs separate wiring - I like these because they allow the alarm sounds to come from the alarm interface where you're interacting with the system, not from some centralized speaker. If you don't have enough keypads to get good sound coverage, you can also add more of them in discreet locations around the house - up to 8 without any special wiring at all. I like keypads near each main entrance and in the master bedroom which provides pretty good coverage.
For wired/wireless, ALWAYS go wired if you have the choice - $2/sensor vs. $35 is a big difference, along with faster response times (good for automation), no battery hassles, better reliability, etc.
I use UPB and not insteon but I'm not sure how much that matters... if there's a way to do what I want via the Elk, I do it there first - then I go external... If there's an Elk version of something, I'd bet it's going to be more reliable than an Insteon version of the same thing... that said, the rules/programming space in the Elk is more limited than that of the ISY so for non-critical stuff, it does sound easier to put things there... but for things like water shutoff, I'd go with elk-controlled all the way. What does the ISY do for battery backup? The elk can run for a week off its battery...
Lou Apo said:
work2play is right. I would run your water valve off of the elk relays, not Insteon. It is cheaper, and it is bullet proof. Since the walls are open, it is very easy to pull the wires. You just need a 4 conductor wire like you would use for a motion detector.
What is 18/4? is it 18 gauge 4 wire?
I am hoping to use
ELK-M1KPNAV keypad. Is that good? Can I use this exclusively or do I have to have KP2 in the system?
Why would I need more keypads for better sound coverage? When I am interacting with the system, most of it will be done with a PC. Would the keypad be used for much more than arming and disarming? even if it does, while I am interacting with the keypad, wouldn't I be next to the keypad to hear the sounds. Why would I need more sound coverage? Sorry for the newbie questions. (I will be using echo speakers in the house)
I am thinking of adding two keypads for the front two entrances. Master bed is very close to one of the entrances, so I don't see a need for another there? I wouldn't leave or enter home for good from the walkout basement so wouldn't need it there either, no? unless this sound coverage is critical.
I am actually planning to run CAT 6 wiring to each keypad location. I will also have 'two-way wireless transceiver' for any wireless stuff that may come up later. I will get the ELK-M1DBH data bus hub to connect them to the M1 control panel. The two keypads and the wireless transceiver will all be connected to the hub with CAT6 cables. (I am planning to place the wireless transceiver inside a closet under the stairs where there would be no electrical equipment to minimize interference - away from my electronic room where the Mk1 and all the other numerous home automation A/V etc equipment will be). This data bus hub will connected to the RS-485 data bus on the Mk1 circuit board and terminated with a termination plug on the data bus.
DOES THIS SOUND CORRECT? OR AM I MISSING SOMETHING?
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I read the manual, and I still don't understand what's meant by " The two-way wireless transceiver must be enrolled as the first zone expander (address #2) on the M1 control data bus"? if the wireless transceiver is attached to the data bus hub along with the keypads and the hub in turn is attached to the M1 control board, how do I just send the wireless transceiver to address #2?
What is address #2 anyways? I don't even know where address #2 is?
Any help in this regard is appreciated.
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Good point about battery back up. I will use Elk for the shut off valve and wired when ever I can. It's just that, with just the initial look I've had, programming ISY seems to be easier than ELK (granted I really haven't looked into Elk programming in any detail yet). I am just conceptualizing the whole setup, so that I can ask my contractors to get it all wired as needed.
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Does Elk have there own water leak sensor or will this tie into Insteon water leak? (from what I read Elk and Insteon work very well together as in being "fully" compatible)
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Problem with Elk is, if I get into trouble Elk would not render assistance to the consumer, so I could be stuck