Wire run to light switches...now what?

[cgull]

The guy doing the LV wiring (he did HV wiring for 20 years) says that the only reason he's not running the cat5 inside the box is b/c of the inspector. I am sure that if the inspector is ok with it then the LV will be in the same box. I don't know enough about it to comment either way but I'll definitely be reading up on it. With that said, there definitely seems to be a hard line between people who think it's no big deal to put the two in the same box and the others who stay away from this.

Also, I should've done more research on these switches b/c man they're expensive! I thought they were in the $100 range but when you factor in 3 switches controlling a light, that's one main controller switch and two aux switches. This is roughly $450-$500 per 3 or 4 way light (minimum) and for simple single switches it's roughly $300! Of course, there's definitely more expensive brands along with similarly priced brands (UPB for example) but I can definitely see the draw in going with Insteon/Zwave/etc.

I'm still having the switch locations wired (a lot of them at least) and may have two or three lights automated. The rest I can install down the road it seems as long as the wiring is there.

 

[AceCannon]

I've recently moved into my house which I wired with cat5e to every light switch. I only have the keeping room and kitchen fitted with ALC so far, but it seems damned reliable.

One thing I would do differently: I located 5 switches for kitchen lights in the pantry (out of sight) and put one scene switch in the kitchen. The wife LOVES that. I wish I had done that in a couple other areas where there are multiple switches visible. So, if you choose to do this, make sure you run HV supply to the scene switch location along with your cat5e signal wire.

 

[cornutt]

This is roughly $450-$500 per 3 or 4 way light (minimum) and for simple single switches it's roughly $300! Of course, there's definitely more expensive brands along with similarly priced brands (UPB for example) but I can definitely see the draw in going with Insteon/Zwave/etc.

Wow!... the most expensive UPB device I've purchased was the Web Mountain SW-7 Swiss-army-knife dimmer, and it was around $110. You can get the HAI UPB dimmers for $55-65 if you know where to look.

 

[cgull]

I've recently moved into my house which I wired with cat5e to every light switch. I only have the keeping room and kitchen fitted with ALC so far, but it seems damned reliable.

One thing I would do differently: I located 5 switches for kitchen lights in the pantry (out of sight) and put one scene switch in the kitchen. The wife LOVES that. I wish I had done that in a couple other areas where there are multiple switches visible. So, if you choose to do this, make sure you run HV supply to the scene switch location along with your cat5e signal wire.

That's a really good idea...I really wish I thought of doing something like that. We have a place in the kitchen that has two rows with 4 switches each (maybe 5) and for that the scene switch would be very nice to have. So for the scene switch, it needs a HV line to it? If nothing else, I would like one of these in the bedroom for flood lights, etc.

This is roughly $450-$500 per 3 or 4 way light (minimum) and for simple single switches it's roughly $300! Of course, there's definitely more expensive brands along with similarly priced brands (UPB for example) but I can definitely see the draw in going with Insteon/Zwave/etc.

Wow!... the most expensive UPB device I've purchased was the Web Mountain SW-7 Swiss-army-knife dimmer, and it was around $110. You can get the HAI UPB dimmers for $55-65 if you know where to look.

I don't know where I was looking but for some reason I thought UPB switches were roughly the same price as the ALC...I just looked and they are in the range you are saying. The most expensive one I could find was for a 2400w dimmer at around $400. Most of the regular ones are around $70-100 like you're saying. Have you had any issues with the UPB switches not turning on or anything like that?

 

[Neurorad]

I think UPB is the most popular, among DIYers. Many different manufacturers.

Here's a thread with a lighting control poll that may interest you.

 

[cornutt]

I don't know where I was looking but for some reason I thought UPB switches were roughly the same price as the ALC...I just looked and they are in the range you are saying. The most expensive one I could find was for a 2400w dimmer at around $400. Most of the regular ones are around $70-100 like you're saying. Have you had any issues with the UPB switches not turning on or anything like that?

Of the about 20 UPB devices I've installed so far, the only issue I've had is with one relay switch that keeps flaking out. All of the ones I have are from either HAI or Web Mountain.

 

[AceCannon]

That's a really good idea...I really wish I thought of doing something like that. We have a place in the kitchen that has two rows with 4 switches each (maybe 5) and for that the scene switch would be very nice to have. So for the scene switch, it needs a HV line to it? If nothing else, I would like one of these in the bedroom for flood lights, etc.


I don't know where I was looking but for some reason I thought UPB switches were roughly the same price as the ALC...I just looked and they are in the range you are saying. The most expensive one I could find was for a 2400w dimmer at around $400. Most of the regular ones are around $70-100 like you're saying. Have you had any issues with the UPB switches not turning on or anything like that?

The ALC scene switches need HV as well as LV for the communications (only two conductors are used (for the ALC polling loop)).

I think Neurorad is prob correct abt UPB being most popular with DIY'ers. Of course, most people do not have the luxury of pre-wiring to each switch location. I suspect the hardwired options would be used far more if everyone had their house pre-wired. Just about everyone will agree that hardwired is preferreed if infrastructure and budget allow.

 

[ano]

Maybe 5 years ago hardwired was the way to go, and certainly against X-10 its no match, but today with UPB, even in a new house, I would have no second thoughts about using UPB exclusively. Yes, I'd probably wire the house slightly different for UPB, but otherwise I really don't see any benefit of a hardwired system over UPB. With UPB and NO controller you can do a fair amount of automation (like virtual 3-ways, all-lights on, off), but add in a controller and you can do just about anything. How much can hardwired switches do without a central controller? Not much. UPB has the volume which keeps prices down and keeps the innovation coming. If you have just too much money then sure, buy hardwired if it makes you feel better, but your really fooling yourself if you think your getting a system more reliable or with more features than UPB.

 

[AceCannon]

Maybe 5 years ago hardwired was the way to go, and certainly against X-10 its no match, but today with UPB, even in a new house, I would have no second thoughts about using UPB exclusively. Yes, I'd probably wire the house slightly different for UPB, but otherwise I really don't see any benefit of a hardwired system over UPB. With UPB and NO controller you can do a fair amount of automation (like virtual 3-ways, all-lights on, off), but add in a controller and you can do just about anything. How much can hardwired switches do without a central controller? Not much. UPB has the volume which keeps prices down and keeps the innovation coming. If you have just too much money then sure, buy hardwired if it makes you feel better, but your really fooling yourself if you think your getting a system more reliable or with more features than UPB.

Good info, and I respect your opinion. But, when I was building my house (last year), the overwhelming consensus on this and other forums was that hardwired is more reliable than any powerline or RF solution.

And nothing precludes one from deploying UPB in a house along with ALC. The existence of the cat5e in the walls is nothing but another option, more flexibility.

Monoprice currently sells cat5e for $57 for 1000ft, so it seemed like an easy choice for me.