Wiring questions, UPB switches

[GimpMaster]

I spent a great deal of time with the guys from AO on the phone last week (great guys by the way). I think I'm finally starting to understand how to run UPB, but I figured I would solidify my knowledge with an example from my home under construction and get your guy's feedback.
 
Attached below is an image of my main floor living room/kitchen/dinning area. I would like to have most of this space under home automation control using UPB switches. I would love to condense all the switch panels down to the minimal needed and use Scene buttons. From my NEW understanding now is that I only need one switch that controls the load to the light segments. These could probably all be installed on the wall that is shared with the Pantry (103). The other switch locations on the top fireplace wall or by the sliding door would no longer need to be three way or four way switches and are essentially just controllers that are plugged into the electrical system but do not carry a load.
 
Now for each load I would like to control I would need to either add a switch that carries the load (AO showed me a switch that can handle two loads) or I would have to need to get an inline relay that is hidden away.
 
Anyways, I'm looking for validation on my understanding or even suggestions on how you guys would handle this.
 
Thanks in advance.
 
Josh
 
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[ano]

You just want to make sure it: 1) Meets Electric Codes and, 2) Can be made "normal" if you sell your house and the future owners don't share your desire for automation.  Also, with UPB, it always helps if you wire your lighting loads separate from outlets and other appliances. Not required, but it helps.

 

[Desert_AIP]

If you want to use inline modules use regular wall switches instead, but place them in boxes hidden out of the way, in cabinets, in the attic, in the crawlspace, etc.
They are the same price as the inline modules and have better wattage handling and overtemperature protection.
They also usually have more robust automation capabilities.
I have several in boxes in my attic space that are all controlled remotely via links (since the actual swich paddles are in the attic).
 
Be aware, the HAI can't speak to the separate channels of the 2-channel devices by unit. 
It can send and receive links and the channels can respond independently, but you can't send unit commands and the status for the independent channels is not tracked.
I use one for my porch and driveway lights which are on a schedule, so perfect status tracking isn't vital.
 
You'll also need at least one coupler.
I use 3, one in each breaker panel, because I was having signal loss when my electric water heater was on and bridging both legs together.

 

[GimpMaster]

Thanks for the replies thus far. I should mention that I purchased my ELK M1G system and it is on its way now. I also purchased a passive phase coupler which will be wired into the breaker panel (well just outside in a box).
 
I'm not quite sure I'm following your first two sentences.
 

If you want to use inline modules use regular wall switches instead, but place them in boxes hidden out of the way, in cabinets, in the attic, in the crawlspace, etc.
They are the same price as the inline modules and have better wattage handling and overtemperature protection.

 
Are you talking about using a $2 home depot wall switch with the inline modules? Are you talking about relays. Sorry if it should be obvious but I'm still kind of new at this.

 

[Desert_AIP]

I was responding to this clause:

or I would have to need to get an inline relay that is hidden away

 
 
Simply Automated (and PCS) sell a wire in-line module to control loads that don't have a switch, like this.
http://www.simply-automated.com/products/items/UFD-30_dimming_module.php
 

 
When you wire that into a fixture, you either have to stuff it inside the fixture or place it in an electrical box.
It is controlled by links.  Some can have an auxiliary switch wired to them (but then you could just use a switch anyway).
 
However, instead of using one of those, you can wire a regular wall switch in the same manner.  Wire it in line with the fixture and stuff it inside the fixture, or place it in an electrical box out of the way.  Then you can still control it with links.
 
http://www.simply-automated.com/products/items/US2-40_deluxe_single_circuit_base.php
 

If you wire a 240 in a manner like this, then it doesn't need the front switch paddle, since it'll never be used as a switch.
That saves ~$5.
 
The US240 handles 600W when wired in a single gang box.
The UFD is only a 300W device.
 
The US240 has overtemperature protection, if it overtemps it will shut down until it cools off.
The UFD does not have this feature.
 
The prices are about the same, although I've found 240s for quite a bit less since they are more widely available.
 
This recommendation was made to me by Simply Automated themselves.

 

[GimpMaster]

Thanks, that's what my understanding was.
 
Would it be unreasonable to have the multi scene switch to be placed at the three different points where the 3-way/4-ways were originally located? Also what would be your suggestion on those type of switches since they wouldn't be carrying the load they would be sending signals to the smart switch?

 

[Desert_AIP]

A lot of people, myself included, use the 240 switches with no controlled load solely as link transmitters.
I make use of the top rocker and 4 link button switch plates quite a bit.
The top rocker can control a single load or the entire room, and the other buttons can toggle individual loads on and off or set scenes.
The behavior of each button is customizeable (to a point) in UPStart.
 
I replaced a lot of the 3-way switches with a load control switch and a link transmitter switch.
 
The 1140s control loads directly via the switch paddle, and are a better option to control loads where a single switch is wanted.
The 1140s can still send links, but they work directly to turn on their connected loads.
The 240s only work via links.
So even when controlling a load wired to the 240 and operating the switch paddle on the front of the 240, it still transmits and receives it's own link to operate the load.  The 240 also does not transmit status when operating the local load.  The 1140 does.  So the status tracking using 1140s is a little more reliable.
 
I find I use a mix of both types. 
I made up a spreadsheet of every load in my house and thought about how I wanted to use each one.
I also thought about daily routine, what groups of lights I commonly use together etc.
Then I decided which type of switch best fit.
I reconfigured it on paper quite a bit before I ever installed a switch.
I made some changes along the way, but not many.
Software changes are easier than hardware.  Modifying a link or a dimmimg level is easy.
 
 
As an example of what I was talking about before WRT in line modules.
All of my security lights are controlled via links and all the actual load control switches are in boxes in my attic.
Each fixture is 240W, so I need the 240 load capacity to run a pair of them.
I have 5 banks of lights that operate in groups via different links.
 
The only UFR (in line relay) I use is for my shower fan. 
I split the wiring between the light and the fan so the fan could stay running on a timer after I turned off the light.

 

[GimpMaster]

Thank you. That makes a lot of sense.