Razor-knife (box cutter) with a fully-extended blade ... slip it behind the SlimSwitch and carefully slice through the adhesive foam-tape. A tricky maneuver; keep the blade pressed against the SlimSwitch. Keep an eye on the point of the blade ... make sure it isn't gouging the drywall as you slice through the foam-tape.
Razor-knife (box cutter) with a fully-extended blade ... slip it behind the SlimSwitch and carefully slice through the adhesive foam-tape. A tricky maneuver; keep the blade pressed against the SlimSwitch. Keep an eye on the point of the blade ... make sure it isn't gouging the drywall as you slice through the foam-tape.
This could probably work too, but it just seems using four pieces of double sized foam, each slightly larger than a pencil eraser would be easier. In fact, I just removed one yesterday by prying it off with a plastic slotted screwdriver and it popped right off.
If the foam piece (or slimswitch sticky) is too large then they can be difficult to remove. Now that I think about it, is tends to make sense. On a simple bond like this, the peel stresses and shear stresses are highest at the edges. We typically call the inner region, the "trough", which has lower peel and shear stresses. If the piece is relatively larger, the failure mode can translate to the paint peeling off the drywall (coheisve failure in the trough region) rather than the adhesive peeling or shearing away from the drywall (adhesive failure). Well..just off the top of my head this is what I am thinking. I have done some amount of structural analysis of bonds so it is not a totally unfamiliar topic to me...but never explicitly for a slimline switch, haha.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.