Can OmniProII be locked?

Thanks for the detailed reply, Ano. I understand why the installer may not want to share the installer code. However, I will like to add lighting and audio myself later on so I guess I will have to have the installer code.

I found this interesting "If YOU are adding zones, audio, etc. you need the installer to change the code to what you tell him, but wait until you its working great before you do, because that will probably be the end of your relationship."

Does it mean he will have to change the code if I ask him to do so?

Jeez! I thought this would be the easiest part of the whole thing!!!

I'm not an installer, but my guess is your installer code is the same as all his other customer's installer codes so he will not give YOU the installer code, but he may change it to a code you pick.

Why I say wait is that he is probably giving you a warranty and if something isn't working he should fix it. It doesn't take the installer code to add lights or do any programming. What you CAN'T do is add or change zones, change some zone settings, change monitoring company, or add an audio system, but again if you want him to do that stuff, that's O.K. Just let him keep the code during the time he installs options, but at the point where you want control, get the code. But until YOU get the code, be nice, because as I say, if he leaves MAD then your only option is to send your panel back to HAI to be reset, and it clears EVERYTHING.

So remember, its you or him, so don't cut-off your relationship with him until you need to, but it IS a good idea to get it in writing under what terms you can change the code and take control of your system.
 
The monitoring company charges the installer $5-10 dollars a month to monitor your home. The installer gets the rest. He NEEDS this recurring revenue. If he gives you the code, he's giving up a lot of money, because this frees you to easily shop for whichever monitoring company you choose, once your contract with him expires.

When the contract expires, most people just stay with the same monitoring company, through the local installer.
 
I wanted to add my 2 cents on the smoke detectors.

Someone tried to convince me to do double smoke detectors. 120 volt electrician installed, right next to my high quality system smokes that are monitored.
I wasn't having that.

So, just to make sure I was right, I called the state Fire Marshall's office and talked with them, then I also asked the inspector who was assigned to me.
Once I explained how it all works, he agreed with me.

The HAI Omni system IS 120 volt powered, and battery backed up.
Therefore the smoke detectors connected to it fit "the intent of the law". (His own words).

We have a clean system now without unnecessary duplicate detectors.
I have 13 fire zones, that would have been a lot of junk to duplicate.
 
I wanted to add my 2 cents on the smoke detectors.

Someone tried to convince me to do double smoke detectors. 120 volt electrician installed, right next to my high quality system smokes that are monitored.
I wasn't having that.

So, just to make sure I was right, I called the state Fire Marshall's office and talked with them, then I also asked the inspector who was assigned to me.
Once I explained how it all works, he agreed with me.

The HAI Omni system IS 120 volt powered, and battery backed up.
Therefore the smoke detectors connected to it fit "the intent of the law". (His own words).

We have a clean system now without unnecessary duplicate detectors.
I have 13 fire zones, that would have been a lot of junk to duplicate.


The codes VARY widely per location, as does the interpretation of the codes by inspectors. If all agree on for your house your good-to-go for now, but when you sell your house, don't be surprised if it comes up again with the home inspector.

Overall, the thinking for two smokes is that the ionization types that are used for 120V are very quick acting, but they can false easily. Since there inside the home only, its better to fail on the safe side. Monitored panel smoke sensors are usually photo-electric, which react slower but seldom have a false alarm. The thinking here is, if the fire-department is going to respond, they want to be sure there is a fire.

By the way, the laws governing the required number of smoke detectors have nothing to do with the number of smokes you are installing, so even if you had both types, it would certainly not be one-to-one.
 
I added smokes / CO detectors to the panel and left the 120VAC ones in place.

I don't pay too much attention to their aesthetics though.
 
You realize that every commercial building in the USA, and most of the developed world use system smoke detectors tied to an alarm panel.
They are all inspected and meet code.

The codes VARY widely per location, as does the interpretation of the codes by inspectors. If all agree on for your house your good-to-go for now, but when you sell your house, don't be surprised if it comes up again with the home inspector.

Overall, the thinking for two smokes is that the ionization types that are used for 120V are very quick acting, but they can false easily. Since there inside the home only, its better to fail on the safe side. Monitored panel smoke sensors are usually photo-electric, which react slower but seldom have a false alarm. The thinking here is, if the fire-department is going to respond, they want to be sure there is a fire.

By the way, the laws governing the required number of smoke detectors have nothing to do with the number of smokes you are installing, so even if you had both types, it would certainly not be one-to-one.
 
You realize that every commercial building in the USA, and most of the developed world use system smoke detectors tied to an alarm panel.
They are all inspected and meet code.

The codes VARY widely per location, as does the interpretation of the codes by inspectors. If all agree on for your house your good-to-go for now, but when you sell your house, don't be surprised if it comes up again with the home inspector.

Overall, the thinking for two smokes is that the ionization types that are used for 120V are very quick acting, but they can false easily. Since there inside the home only, its better to fail on the safe side. Monitored panel smoke sensors are usually photo-electric, which react slower but seldom have a false alarm. The thinking here is, if the fire-department is going to respond, they want to be sure there is a fire.

By the way, the laws governing the required number of smoke detectors have nothing to do with the number of smokes you are installing, so even if you had both types, it would certainly not be one-to-one.

Code for commercial buildings really has very little in common with the code for residential properties. I have never seen interconnected 120V smoke alarms in a commercial building with 9V battery backups. Since I don't live in a commercial building, I go by the code for the type building I do live in.

I think many people confuse the building and fire codes with what is "best." That isn't the case and in many cases the codes are out of date and certainly not the best solution, but codes evolve over time, and many have a purpose other than what is obvious.
 
Don't forget. Code is written or changed to reflect on what has happened not what could happen. We have to protect the stupid from themselves, remember?
 
I think Basildane and ANO both make good points. I work in several jurisdictions and have seen it both ways. I have even had an inspector that preferred the panel connected smokes since there was only one battery to maintain. The point to take away is that The Local Authority Having Jurisdiction (LAHJ) is the final word.

The issues discussed here are some of the reasons I no longer offer Fire or "Life Safety" systems...just too much liability and too many headaches. I hope you find a good solution.
 
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