v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
Yep, I saw the 3 cds. M1 training, RP training and the other one doesn't have label
ELK devices arriving today at 3pm
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v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
I just finished watching "Unpacking the M1". I have a question though on the can. It didn't mention mounting it on studs. Can I screw the can side to the studs? Is it possible?
The training is awesome!!! B)
The training is awesome!!! B)
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
Ok folks, I'm confused with the RJ31 JAX RJSET specifically the cable. I'm looking at page 7 now. One end has a connector that almost looks like an RJ45. The other end has 8 open colored wires with U connector. I know that there are only 4 needed wires in the M1(T1,R1 and Ring,Tip). These U doesn't match the input holes on the M1. Did you cut the U on the connectors?
Or here's the other thing I'm thinking, these U connects to my existing box where telephone company left their wire inside the basement. And then, I will make my own cable using CAT5 but only use 4 wire and connect it to the M1's (T1,R1 and Ring,Tip).
EDIT: And also, the 8 wires inside the box doesn't match the colors on Page 7 of the manual. Pins 4 and 5 are correct but pins 1 and 8 are wrong. My pin 1 is color gray and pin 8 is color brown. Manual's pin 1 is color black and pin 8 is color yellow.
Or here's the other thing I'm thinking, these U connects to my existing box where telephone company left their wire inside the basement. And then, I will make my own cable using CAT5 but only use 4 wire and connect it to the M1's (T1,R1 and Ring,Tip).
EDIT: And also, the 8 wires inside the box doesn't match the colors on Page 7 of the manual. Pins 4 and 5 are correct but pins 1 and 8 are wrong. My pin 1 is color gray and pin 8 is color brown. Manual's pin 1 is color black and pin 8 is color yellow.
Spanky
Senior Member
The can may be surface mounted to any wall. One side of the mounting holes can hit a stud and the other side you will need Moley Bolts if mounting to sheet rock.
The 14 inch can is also designed to mount between 16 inch studs if you want to recess it in the wall. There are holes on the inside of the can to screw to the studs.
edit:
The "U" connector needs to be clipped on one side. All those RJ31 X cables come with a "U" shaped connector instead of a single prong.
Go by the wire position on the RJ45 connector as described in the manual. Two wires to T and R, and two wires to T1 and R1 on the M1. Polarity of the two wires is not important.
Have fun!
The 14 inch can is also designed to mount between 16 inch studs if you want to recess it in the wall. There are holes on the inside of the can to screw to the studs.
edit:
The "U" connector needs to be clipped on one side. All those RJ31 X cables come with a "U" shaped connector instead of a single prong.
Go by the wire position on the RJ45 connector as described in the manual. Two wires to T and R, and two wires to T1 and R1 on the M1. Polarity of the two wires is not important.
Have fun!
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
Spanky said:
Are you saying that I will insert one end of the U connector to the terminal on the M1?
Are you saying that I should unscrew the black/yellow and grey/brown in the beige box and swap them to match the drawing in page 7?
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
This is what I'm talking about. Maybe, you guys can tell me if it's correct or not. I have not modified anything yet. Thanks. 
Or does the black, yellow, green, and red label on wires in the manual assume it's my existing wire from my box? If so, the black wire would connect to the brown wire(pin1) on the box RJSET, yellow wire to brown wire(pin8)?
Or does the black, yellow, green, and red label on wires in the manual assume it's my existing wire from my box? If so, the black wire would connect to the brown wire(pin1) on the box RJSET, yellow wire to brown wire(pin8)?
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
I'm confused again but now with the ELK-M1DBH. I'm making a CAT5 cable with RJ45 connector on one end. The color coding I learned back when I was doing network was easy to follow. CAT5 wires were called White/Green, solid Green, White/Blue, solid Blue, White/Brown, solid Brown, White/Orange, and solid Orange.
But the ELK manual, page 12 is confusing me. Near the RJ45 connector drawing(bottom part of page), it says, for pin 1 - White/Green, pin 2 - Green/White, and so on. Why is it like that?
My cat 5 cable comes 4 solid wires and 4 other wires with white stripes in them. Please clarrify.
But the ELK manual, page 12 is confusing me. Near the RJ45 connector drawing(bottom part of page), it says, for pin 1 - White/Green, pin 2 - Green/White, and so on. Why is it like that?
My cat 5 cable comes 4 solid wires and 4 other wires with white stripes in them. Please clarrify.
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
I'm trying to understand based on wires I have physically. Looks like when ELK says Green/White, it means solid green. I saw this from the cross over cable that came with M1DBH. However, eventhough I don't need it for now, I think, I've got a bad cross-over cable. I don't think it's cross. It's a straight cable. Please see below.
Please let me know if I'm correct. Thanks.
Please let me know if I'm correct. Thanks.
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
I just found out that i should not follow the color on the manual, but rather, follow the instruction on the M1DBH pcb board. It says there to use EIA 568A. Whew.Digger said:
Which is
1 - WGreen
2 - Green
3 - WOrange
4 - Blue
5 - WBlue
6 - Orange
7 - Wbrown
8 - Brown
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
Am I correct folks that the Blue and Brown wire from KP2 is optional since I'm just going to be testing?
Steve
Senior Member
It really doesn't matter how you wire stuff as long as you are consistent throughout. 568A or B. And yes, alot of the time you have a solid and solid/stripe, so when it tells you color/white, you can safely ignore the /white part. And as was mentioned in another post, it appears the green cable shipped with the dbh is indeed straight thru, not crossover.
As for the RJ31x, simply follow the diagram on the M1 cover, it is the easiest to follow. Assument 1 line and no DSL, go from your demarc to the 31x and then from the 31x to either traditional daisy chain phone wire, or to a structured phone distribution block. Then cut off the "U" clips entirely, and strip the wire and insert into the M1 connection.
As for the RJ31x, simply follow the diagram on the M1 cover, it is the easiest to follow. Assument 1 line and no DSL, go from your demarc to the 31x and then from the 31x to either traditional daisy chain phone wire, or to a structured phone distribution block. Then cut off the "U" clips entirely, and strip the wire and insert into the M1 connection.
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
Since I just need to do some testing, can I connect the line from my RJ11 wall port to the RING and TIP on the M1? This way, I don't have to work in the basement.Steve said:
Once everything is tested, that's the only time I will be able to connect it to the demarc. Please let me know.
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
Question folks on the M1DBH data bus hub. I have connected the KP2 via a CAT5 cable w/RJ45 connector. The other remaining 8 RJ45 receptables are empty. In the M1 package, I saw an RJ45 connector with a resistor inside. Do I connect this to somewhere? Also, when I turn on the M1, I get the following on the display
Not Ready 16Zn
Area 1
Output 2 Trouble
What am I missing?
By the way, I don't have any sensor connected to any of the 16 zones.
Not Ready 16Zn
Area 1
Output 2 Trouble
What am I missing?
By the way, I don't have any sensor connected to any of the 16 zones.
Yes, put it in the first unused port. It terminates the bus.
That means 16 zones are not ready. Set all 16 zones to " Definition '00-Disabled' " in ElkRP / Inputs (Zones) - Main Board
You need to have a speaker or Horn on output 2 since it's automatically supervised against being an open circuit (like somebody tries to cut the cable to your alarm siren)
Looks like you're almost there !
Later,
Frank
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