Hardwired Lighting System Using Cat5

sace can you share WHERE you are getting your pricing? the switches have a street price of around a hundred bucks and even at dealer cost you are below cost just on the lights alone. or are you referring to ebay??

ps, you cant go wrong with hardwired and the on-q alc does rock.
 
sace can you share WHERE you are getting your pricing? the switches have a street price of around a hundred bucks and even at dealer cost you are below cost just on the lights alone. or are you referring to ebay??

ps, you cant go wrong with hardwired and the on-q alc does rock.

I checked out the setnetpro site, and created an account. Their prices are pretty amazing. For the UPB, I was pricing out HAI, and just got the pricing on AO.
 
Sorry to butt in, but I was wondering if there is a serial adapter and a publicly documented protocol for ALC that I could use to develop my own software to configure and control the system

Matt

Yes there is a Serial Adapter for ALC. Sorry but I don't have a product picture. Call me about the protocol. Call anytime Mon-thur 9:5 Eastern - 1-864-663-0011
 
Well On-Q ALC solutions look interesting, but I am concerned that you don't get to avoid the "bank of switches" unless you hide them elsewhere and try to survive on a scene switch. Does that seem about right? One application that comes to mind is a home theater room with switches for fans, sconces, screen lighting, and rope lighting.


FYI, I am currently leaning towards a CentraLite LiteJet install but am enjoying researching this product.

Eph
 
With hardwired lighting, it is more of a 'challenge'. And I wondered if you or anyone else had a code-compliant solution.

Centralite can control UPB devices. I'll use one of these to control my lamps. Not as pretty as the rest of my Litejet stuff but this will end up going behind furniture anyway so what is the difference...

Chris

Ctay,

How does the CentraLite panel do this? Just curious as I am interested in them and this would open up some more options.

Thanks,

Ephraim
 
Did a quick EDT iLine pricing based on an old Home Integrator price list, and it is close to the UPB price (a bit lower than the OnQ ALC prices). The pricelist is proprietary (and out of date), so I can't give exact prices.

--Bob
 
Well On-Q ALC solutions look interesting, but I am concerned that you don't get to avoid the "bank of switches" unless you hide them elsewhere and try to survive on a scene switch. Does that seem about right? One application that comes to mind is a home theater room with switches for fans, sconces, screen lighting, and rope lighting.


FYI, I am currently leaning towards a CentraLite LiteJet install but am enjoying researching this product.

Eph

You are right, "Wall Acne" could still be an issue with ALC or EDT Iline. However any location where there will be more than a couple of wall switches could be a reason for putting in a scene switch and relocating some of the ALC dimmers/Relays to a coat closet..... A hybrid approach if you will!

But also consider this. Switches like ALC and Iline still work manually (someone help me here as I assume that I-line will also work manually) when the controller is down (should that ever happen is another issue). And......

Many times the locations where wall acne is worst comes from the fact that several of the swtiches in that bank are part of a 3 or 4 way. With the use of scene switches, the electrician can run one way switches and then scene switches can act as the remore or 3-way. Thus reducing the need to so many switches on the walls. As I said earlier, I don't like comprimising safety so I prefer stairwells and hallways to always have 3 ways. Here it would take two ALC wall switches and not an ALC with a scene switch at the other end of the stairs/hall.

Many times the abundance of wall switches comes from the fact that we desire to be able to turn on all lights in the yard from several places and thus we have two many banks of 3 to 6 wall switches in one area. Scene switches are the key.

The OnQ ALC scene switches can work even if the automation controller is down or not installed as long as the stand alone controller is used. Meaning that in a "Cripple mode" situation even scene swithces will work.

The real decision making boils down to these factors.
1. Cost.
2. Will the lighting be impacted by a system failure?
3. Wall clutter.
4. Propretary nature of the technology.
5 And don't forget compaibilty / flexibiity for integration with other open architecture systems
 
As I said earlier, I don't like comprimising safety so I prefer stairwells and hallways to always have 3 ways. Here it would take two ALC wall switches and not an ALC with a scene switch at the other end of the stairs/hall.

number, you have brought this up a couple times. I think its a good idea but I have a question. Are you saying have the "safety" lights hardwired with HV and not have HA on them? If thats not what you are saying, how do i have a hardwired HV 3 way that is HA? I dont understand how to use ALC in a 3 way situation and also have it HV in case an alc aux switch doesnt work. Im a bit confused. thanks!
 
As I said earlier, I don't like comprimising safety so I prefer stairwells and hallways to always have 3 ways. Here it would take two ALC wall switches and not an ALC with a scene switch at the other end of the stairs/hall.

number, you have brought this up a couple times. I think its a good idea but I have a question. Are you saying have the "safety" lights hardwired with HV and not have HA on them? If thats not what you are saying, how do i have a hardwired HV 3 way that is HA? I dont understand how to use ALC in a 3 way situation and also have it HV in case an alc aux switch doesnt work. Im a bit confused. thanks!

Good Question

The ALC 3 ways are called Auxillaries or Aux for short.. They don't get an address and don't count as one of polled loop switches. Instead they simply have 3 LV wires that attach to them. One is common and the other two are for on/off (relays) - bright/dim (dimmers). And of course they are much cheaper than the intelligent switches they mate to.

Put an addressable ALC switch at the top of the stairwell and an Aux (3-way) at the bottom. Then runa a cat5 to attach the contact closures to the smart ALC switch at the other end of the stairwell. And use the HV wires the electrician ran to make the 3 way a one way (which is controlled by the one smart ALC switch at the other end of the stairwell)!

Then the entire stairwell is still automated, but one end is the "Smart switch" and the other is a contact closure that follows the action of the addressable smart switch. And "Cripple mode" operation would allow the lights to be turned on from either top or bottom of the stairwell when you have a system failure.

I preach about planning for down time a lot. Sure it rarely happens but it should be a consideration.

OnQ also makes a Quad Aux that'a available in 6 colors, fits in a single gang box and provides 3-way control for up to 4 circuits. It too is simply contact closures. But in the instance where a wall needs 3 or 4 Three-ways, this is a good way to reduce wall clutter AND..... it always works since it's contact closures only. Thus providing cripple mode and 3-way at the same time.

So, the end result is an automatable stairwell that can also work in Cripple Mode. In the case of the HV ran down the stairwell to the other HV switch, this is called a "traveler" and I like for them to run it even though we pull cat5 for the aux (3-way) as well. That way, the house is wired to standard methods and the next homeowner can "dumb up" the house if they desire!

Lastly the exception to standard wiring is reducing the needs for so many travelers with scene switches and/or relocating some switches to reduce wall clutter.

In the case of reducing the need for so many three ways, do so for non safety related lights. For example to provide scene station control (or quad aux) from the master bedroom of every outdoor light (which is wired as a one-way ALC).

In the case of relocating always plan this way.
--------> The main light in every living area should never be removed from the logical place where users expect it to be. If you relocate some switches (say in a gang of 4 or more) then be sure that you will have safe "Egress and Ingress" in and out of the room if the system controller fails and the room is in the dark. In my planning I put at least one ALC dimmer or relay in the expected location and relocate others using a scene switch or two.

It would look like this...... An ALC that is the cripple mode switch for the area in question is still on the wall where it'expected to be. Then I relocate other non cripple mode switches to the back of a coat closet and put a scene switch or quad aux next to the cripple mode ALC switch.

The standard aux or the quad aux are never dependant on a controller, making the quad aux a safer choice when relocating switches to reduce wall clutter. This is the way we wired our headquarters and trainng center. Reduced wall clutter and a very safe and dependable lighting plan.

Of course you may find that more than one cripple mode switch is needed in a single location. In that case, I will accept wall acne over and not compromise safety.

I'm not sure about the competition to OnQ ALC, but this is the way 3-ways should work with everybody! It's comon sense and it's safe!

I hope my lengthy explanations are welcomed, if not tell me to say less....
 
With hardwired lighting, it is more of a 'challenge'. And I wondered if you or anyone else had a code-compliant solution.

Centralite can control UPB devices. I'll use one of these to control my lamps. Not as pretty as the rest of my Litejet stuff but this will end up going behind furniture anyway so what is the difference...

Chris

Ctay,

How does the CentraLite panel do this? Just curious as I am interested in them and this would open up some more options.

Thanks,

Ephraim

Check out this link to the setup procedure. The limitation is that centralite can not control dimming of UPB devices directly. If you want the UPB load to be dimmed run it through an automation panel (Elk ect...).

Should work great for the loads I'm controlling with UPB.

Chris
 
Thanks, I'm planning on an Elk M1 & CentraLite, and potentially a CQC setup, so this could work. Any other good PDF's I could get dealer links to?
 
Thanks, I'm planning on an Elk M1 & CentraLite, and potentially a CQC setup, so this could work. Any other good PDF's I could get dealer links to?
I'm not a dealer but you can get into the "dealer" links with out loging in to anything. LINK Some good stuff there.

Chris
 
number, thanks. But there is still a bit of confusion. First off, I understood the HV ALC dimmer/relay on one end of the stairwell/hall and an auxillary on the other end. I never imagined having two auxillary's in a stair/hall. So, my typical install fits the "safety" scenario you explained. What i didnt know was that even if the on-q controller went down, the auxillary switches still work! Which makes sense as I knew the aux's were dumb but assumed it wouldnt work, silly me. The confusion still remains on this:


"In the case of the HV ran down the stairwell to the other HV switch, this is called a "traveler" and I like for them to run it even though we pull cat5 for the aux (3-way) as well. That way, the house is wired to standard methods and the next homeowner can "dumb up" the house if they desire!"

This issue has been brought up before a few times. Many explained it and showed pics, but I dont think it was spelled out in layman's terms. your saying go ahead and wire for additional three way? here is my scenario: The house has been roughed in and the electrician wire for traditional 3 way. I am installing on-q alc, of course, and i dont need it wired for traditional three way. Now I am scratching my head asking how do I keep the wiring there but "rewire" it for alc? Thats the question.

You may simply be saying to have a traveller wired. Ok, I can accept that, however, what if its already wired? Is there a drawing somewhere that shows how to convert a pre-wired traditionl three way to a single pole switch scenario? I think this would be a huge help to several here as its been an issue in the past.

FOLKS, I hope Number20 is getting some sales for his efforts here. That afterall is his business. I hope myself to send him some biz. I am up against my local vendor who set up meetings with builders and GETS me business, but I am only committed to him on on-q items. there are other needs i may have. Course then there is freight to contend with as well since my vendor lives a couple miles away, LOL, but i will find a way to get humber20 some biz for his assistance. Its only fair.
 
number, thanks. But there is still a bit of confusion. First off, I understood the HV ALC dimmer/relay on one end of the stairwell/hall and an auxillary on the other end. I never imagined having two auxillary's in a stair/hall. So, my typical install fits the "safety" scenario you explained. What i didnt know was that even if the on-q controller went down, the auxillary switches still work! Which makes sense as I knew the aux's were dumb but assumed it wouldnt work, silly me. The confusion still remains on this:


"In the case of the HV ran down the stairwell to the other HV switch, this is called a "traveler" and I like for them to run it even though we pull cat5 for the aux (3-way) as well. That way, the house is wired to standard methods and the next homeowner can "dumb up" the house if they desire!"

This issue has been brought up before a few times. Many explained it and showed pics, but I dont think it was spelled out in layman's terms. your saying go ahead and wire for additional three way? here is my scenario: The house has been roughed in and the electrician wire for traditional 3 way. I am installing on-q alc, of course, and i dont need it wired for traditional three way. Now I am scratching my head asking how do I keep the wiring there but "rewire" it for alc? Thats the question.

You may simply be saying to have a traveller wired. Ok, I can accept that, however, what if its already wired? Is there a drawing somewhere that shows how to convert a pre-wired traditionl three way to a single pole switch scenario? I think this would be a huge help to several here as its been an issue in the past.

FOLKS, I hope Number20 is getting some sales for his efforts here. That afterall is his business. I hope myself to send him some biz. I am up against my local vendor who set up meetings with builders and GETS me business, but I am only committed to him on on-q items. there are other needs i may have. Course then there is freight to contend with as well since my vendor lives a couple miles away, LOL, but i will find a way to get humber20 some biz for his assistance. Its only fair.

I did not mean to wire for an ADDITIONAL 3-way, just be sure you wire for the normal ones in areas where safety is a concern if the controller system fails. Then you can use one ways and scene switches of aux switches to reduce wall clutter for non safety related loads.

While you could do away with traditional HV 3-way travelers, please do not (I am addressing hallways and stairwells more than uses like front yard 3-ways etc). So let the Elec run as normal. Then.....

let''s paint a picture to begin...
Assuming the Elec ran the wires the most common way....Then.....

Be very careful. I would hate for my advice to lead to an electrocution. So if in doubt call the Electrician. And, use a AC voltmeter to verfiy which wires are the hot ones.

WITH THE BREAKERS OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!

One of the two wall box locations, let's say at the bottom of the stairwell, is where the feed from the breaker panel is.
The other end of the stairwell (the top) is where the light wires are located.
The HV travelers contain three wires (which normally are used for the standard HV 3-way (this can be done slightly differently to Electricians taste).

While at the box at the bottom of the stairs, using the wire from the breaker hot wire (Probably black, at least I hope it's black), attach this wire to the black HV wire on the ALC switch (this is the smart one with the dip switches, not the aux).

ONE VERY IMPORTANT NOTE.

Occasionally we learn that an installer (even Electricians do this) attached the high voltage to the LV wires. I assure you that this will permanently let the smoke out of the switch!
So......... the High Voltage AC attaches to the fat wires....
And....... the Low voltage polling loop and aux wires attach to the skinny wires (cat 5). Better yet...
Keep the drawing handy...

Next attach the black HV cable from the traveler to the blue HV wire on the ALC Smart switch (remember we are still at the bottom of the stairs).

The other two wires in the traveler are for the Neutral (white from the breaker feed) and the ground (green from the breaker feed). Attach them to the other two wires on the traveler.

Now go to the top of the stairs

The HV wire that is matched to the Blue wire (black in the traveler) connects to the black wire from the light (unlike a standard HV 3-way, the HV traveler wires don't connect to the aux or 3-way in any manner).

And the other two traveler wires connect directly to the light box neutral and ground wires.

Now it's a one-way that takes a trip up the stairs, through the box at the top of the stairs (connection point only) and then on the light.

Lastly connect the 3 LV aux wires to 3 of the cat-5 that runs from the top to the bottom of the stairs. And connect two of the cat 5 wires to the polling loop at the bottom of the stairs box and on to the lighting controller.

I don't have a drawing (YET), and I know I got wordy on this explanation, but this is dangerous stuff!

As for the kind words about sending me business, let me say this.

I do need to feed my family and pay my employees so they can do the same. But, I am a new guy to your threads and I am keenly aware that other suppliers have already built relationships with many of you. So I ask this concession.

If I teach you something new, or so you a new trick that my competition has not done, then send me the business. Otherwise stay where you are. I have enjoyed this industry since it began and have more than paid my dues. There were many learning curves that cut me deep and I hope my companies experience will stop your bleeding. That's an unbreakable tie that's hard to break.

Some of the others at SETNET are also looking at Cocoontech and may jump in as well. Remember that we are full systems supplier meaning that ALC lighting is just one of our areas of expertise (good news is that they all talk less than I do).
 
I have some quick questions on compatibility. Is OnQ ALC interchangeable with i-line? When I say interchangeable I mean like UPB, you can have an entire system of HAI and then add a web mountain switch into that system and everything works fine. Also can you use the i-line software to program ALC? The i-line software is free. Lastly I really like the i-line fan control but don't see one from ALC, is this something they are working on?
 
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