My 1927 bungalow home structured wiring project

Have you though about telephone distribution and home security/automation? A few automated lights make things really nice. Hallway lights coming on at night from motion, etc.

Telephone I have not thought too much about since I have not had a landline in about 10 years (just mobile phones)... But, I figure I can run VOIP/fios telephone over cat6 or rg6 if I ever decide to have a landline...

Home security/automation I would love to have... Just don't know much about it and am learning as much as I can now, but probably won't do anything on that front for a few months...

Security is a big priority for me, but I don't want lots of false alarms, etc... I live in a safe neighborhood, but still, I want some sort of system... I would have to have cameras and lights that come on automatically at night, all controlled by PCs in my house... :) Any good readings, please post URLs, I'm looking for as much info as I can get my hands on when it comes to security/HA...

You cant go wrong with HAI or Elk for your security and HA. I am a HAI guy and there are tons of Elk folks on here too. Both are great and Do-it-yourselfable.
 
I'm selecting power distribution for my rack and am debating between the following 2 items:

1) Tripplite IBAR12-20ULTRA http://www.provantage.com/tripp-lite-ibar1...ra~7TRPS01M.htm
2) Tripplite DRS-1215 http://www.provantage.com/tripp-lite-drs-1215~7TRPS01V.htm

Main difference I guess is the 15 vs 20 amp... Price difference is about double, $50 vs $100...

I'd like to get a UPS, but mounting depth is a concern as I only have 12" depth and need space behind, so I'd need a rackmount UPS with no more than 8" or so of depth...

I assume the other option is to get a non-rackmount UPS and tie it into a rackmount PDU, but that seems like it could get pricey to protect a network switch, wireless router and FIOS, lol...

Thoughts?
 
Got the plywood up last night...

Step 1: Remove the FIOS box that was nailed directly into the concrete wall by Verizon

Step 2: Have a carpenter install 3 furring strips

Step 3: Screw in a 4'X5' sheet of plywood onto the furring strips


I then realized that I didn't have any proper mounting screws for my new wall mounted rack or the FIOS box, so I had to wait until today to mount anything... So, just left a blank canvas upon which to design my masterpiece :(


Pics of Steps 2 and 3:

furring.jpg


plywood.jpg
 
I decided on the 20 amp tripplite... The IBAR12-20ULTRA...

Also, got a few more goodies from monoprice and ebay today, so I decided to mount things up... First, I put FIOS up, in the upper right corner.... Then, I installed my 7U bracket in the lower middle left... Plopped in the 24-port cat6 patch panel, 24-port coax patch panel, 2 wire mgmt panels, and a shelf... Already out of room so I ordered another 4U bracket :(

Oh, and I painted my plywood a dark red last night in anticipation of starting today...

panel_fios.jpg



And a closeup of the "rack" for now:

panel.jpg
 
Made some great progress this weekend, ran my first outlet to my HT room (the den) on the main level... Decided to go with a 6-port outet, 4 cat6 and 2 rg6, as it's a room that will be used heavily for media (as it is, I already need 2 cat6 runs to that room for my htpc docking station and PS3)... Heck, I may do this for other rooms, 2 runs of each did not seem to be enough, I really feel you can't have too much cat6 wiring...

Anyway, here are some pics of the first install:

den.jpg


Before pic of my setup, note the single disgusting white coax cable coming out from the floor in the corner of the room... That's how it was when I bought the house in each room :(

tools.jpg


Most of the smaller tools I used for the project, and yes, Miller Lite is a required tool when doing something like this, especially when you have plaster walls like I do :rolleyes:

rough.jpg


After rough cutting the hole, installed a Carlon low voltage single gang old work bracket (SC100RR)... Used a level and stud finder to ensure proper and level placement...

hole.jpg


As fate would have it, the wall I wanted to get into is supported below by TWO side-by-side joists :( So, I had to drill at an angle to get from the unfinished basement into the wall space above... I did a pilot hole with a 1/4" drill bit, then slightly adjusted my angle for the final hole which I did with a 1" spade bit, both were 18" long drill bits...

fished.jpg


The fish tape at home depot was garbage, and the nylon fish tape was too expensive (almost $80 for a reel), so I bought a 5 foot flexible glow rod with eyelets on each end for $20... Worked perfectly with electricians bundle tape to pull all 6 wires through the hole simultaneously, no problem at all...

tools2.jpg


Pic of the rest of the tools I used to finish the wall plate, mostly from monoprice, my cat6 keystone jacks, PPC ex6 xl compression plugs, etc...

exposed.jpg


Everything wired, wall patched and painted where some of the plaster cracked around the carlon bracket, all that's left to do is cut the old coax coming out of the floor and screw the 6-port plate into the wall... I left a small 2 foot loop of cable behind the wall in case I ever need more wire/slack in the future... (I believe this is called a "service loop"?)

den_outlet.jpg


Done! Looks pretty good I think... Now, I have some serious cable management questions about my rack...
 
OK, now that I have my first run done, I want to make sure I do things using best practices at my termination point, my basement rack... Here's a picture of how it looks right now:

rack_partial.jpg


Here are my questions, I welcome any advice on these, and anything else you may notice:

1) From the upper right of the picture, you can see the 6 wires I just ran to the HT Den coming past the FIOS box, and then down the left side of the plywood and into the patch panels. What's the best way to hide/bundle these cables, keeping in mind that eventually when this project is finished, I may have as many as 48 cables coming in (24 RG6 and 24 cat6).

2) Rack ordering - I currently have the 7U, 12" deep rack above, and the 4U, 4" deep rack below (this one has a hinged bracket on the right). I also have a 4U, 12" deep rack coming tomorrow... I want advice on how to best "order things". e.g. - Place the patch panel in the top of the 7U rack, with a blank below it, and a 1U wire management below that, etc...) Right now, what you see is what I have, with the exception of my 1U tripp lite power strip. I welcome any ideas on additional items to buy for these racks.

3) RG6 cable running from the bottom of the FIOS box. Right now, it's running over the rack, around and to the Verizon FIOS router. How can I best "hide"/"manage" this single wire. (Also, see #4 below)

4) How should I best mount my FIOS router and D-Link DIR-655 router? Flat on the plywood? Standing on a shelf in the rack as they are now?

5) The power line from the FIOS box when it will eventually be run to the tripp lite power strip that will also eventually be in my rack.

Phew! :rolleyes:
 
For wire management I would just screw a bunch of THIS (search on "fth-13") type of holders in the plywood and methodically make runs along the sides of the plywood with your cables. You could also use it for the plywood interior area for wires going between components.
 
As I said over on the AVS Forum thread, you don't need to use the FiOS router if you don't want to since you got the dlink (it'll just hurt your performance, really) ;)

BioSehnsucht said:
If you already plan to use the dlink router, you can bypass the Actiontec that Verizon supplies completely. Run ethernet from the jack on the ONT to your router, and give Verizon a ring and ask them to switch your internet to the ethernet port. They shouldn't give you any problems about it, and it should be more or less instant. Just configure the router for DHCP etc and you're good.

If you decide to use FiOS for TV and want to use their DVR's, they get their guide data and VOD/PPV via the MoCA (ethernet over coax, essentially) interface, which is how the stock router is setup by default (stock Actiontec Verizon router can actually do the ethernet direct thing too, but since you're replacing it anyways ... ). You might be able to use the Actiontec as a MoCA bridge with double NATing or something but I'm not sure that it works. Certainly the most space concious and simplest method is to just snag a Motorola NIM100 from ebay and slap that in. NIM100 has two coax connectors (one to the wall for MoCA data+TV, one that passes through the TV so you can daisy chain it if need be) and ethernet. Just T in the MoCA jack with the coax from the FiOS box and your coax distribution amp (I'm assuming you'll need one if you actually wire up all the jacks), plug in the ethernet to one of the ports on your router or switch, and plug in the power brick

Netgear makes some MoCA bridges now that should work too but you'd be paying $200 for a pair of which you only need one (since the DVR's have the MoCA interface built in)

BraveSirRobin said:
For wire management I would just screw a bunch of THIS (search on "fth-13") type of holders in the plywood and methodically make runs along the sides of the plywood with your cables. You could also use it for the plywood interior area for wires going between components.

I do like those FTH-13 gizmos but perhaps some wider ones that would accomodate velcro straps (looking at the drawings on the site they look a bit narrow) ?

I've been buying those $5 50 packs of velcro straps at Home Depot and using them all over the place, so much easier to deal with than zipties for things you may need to rearrange. In my last job I worked in a datacenter and we'd just started a massive project to replace ALL zipties in every facility with velcro. Less damaging to the wiring (people tend to super tighten the zipties and sometimes damage the conductors) and easier to rearrange things when the time comes.

Technique said:

Are your wall mount racks hinged on one side? If not I'd consider getting those, it makes it easier to wire up the patch panels.

I would try to route the cable grouped by type / use, and if you use velcro you can easily loosen each strap and add in new runs with the existing ones where they run along side each other. Some kind of mount to hold down the velcro straps like BraveSirRobin pointed out would be handy, though you could just slap a wide staple across the strap too. You can also go to full on datacenter-style wire management stuff with fancy box-style conduits that have flip open covers and slits to pass wires through, etc.

If you want to run the cables "out of sight" you might rig a large hinge / set of hinges to hinge the entire mounting board off the wall, so you can get to things. Obviously it'd be easier to run in front but it depends on how you want to do it. I myself would probably just run them in front. If you ran them out of sight then you could make openings above or to the side of the various things such as the cat5 patch panel to let them pass through close to where they terminate.

For the router / etc, as I said before you can bypass the Verizon supplied Actiontec router and just use your DLink, just run cat5 to the FiOS box for the upstream port, and call Verizon to have them switch the port the Internet is on.

You may wish to consider placing things such that you can easily fit in a large (12/16/24/etc) switch or possibly two - Gigabit is nice to have but more expensive, could have an 8/12 port GigE and a bigger cheaper 10/100. Just plug the 10/100 into a port on the GigE if it has a GigE upstream port or if not either the GigE switch or router directly. Position these such that you can use short (.5-2') patch cables to on the fly reassign cat5 ports that are terminated at the patch panel to individual switch ports.

This gives the option of overwiring the network connections now, once, and upgrading the switch(es) later easily, or changing what you use which port for. Put something GigE capable in later (perhaps just a small switch w/ GigE uplink for the AV rack?) and you can switch it from a 10/100 port to a precious GigE port in just seconds. Prewire extra cat5 in places you aren't using it yet, just in case you might later - then just go back down and slap a patch cable from the previous unused port on the patch panel to whichever switchport.

My friend wired his house like this, more or less, though its only something like 12 cat5 runs maybe ? But he ran extra connections in the living room etc so that if we have a LAN party we can wire into the wall there and just add switch capacity at the wiring closet end (he doesn't have a switch big enough to use all ports at once, since he doesn't need one yet, but if we LAN, any of us can bring a small switch to add in temporarily - we got 'em). Fewer spaghetti cables going everywhere, less tripping :)

And of course you can patch in POTS lines the same way, if you get a POTS patch panel sort of thing, so you can actually convert a port from phone to ethernet by just rearranges some wires at the patch panel.

/ramble
 
As I said over on the AVS Forum thread, you don't need to use the FiOS router if you don't want to since you got the dlink (it'll just hurt your performance, really) ;)

Done, FIOS router gone! :)

Are your wall mount racks hinged on one side? If not I'd consider getting those, it makes it easier to wire up the patch panels.

I would try to route the cable grouped by type / use, and if you use velcro you can easily loosen each strap and add in new runs with the existing ones where they run along side each other. Some kind of mount to hold down the velcro straps like BraveSirRobin pointed out would be handy, though you could just slap a wide staple across the strap too. You can also go to full on datacenter-style wire management stuff with fancy box-style conduits that have flip open covers and slits to pass wires through, etc.

If you want to run the cables "out of sight" you might rig a large hinge / set of hinges to hinge the entire mounting board off the wall, so you can get to things. Obviously it'd be easier to run in front but it depends on how you want to do it. I myself would probably just run them in front. If you ran them out of sight then you could make openings above or to the side of the various things such as the cat5 patch panel to let them pass through close to where they terminate.

For the router / etc, as I said before you can bypass the Verizon supplied Actiontec router and just use your DLink, just run cat5 to the FiOS box for the upstream port, and call Verizon to have them switch the port the Internet is on.

You may wish to consider placing things such that you can easily fit in a large (12/16/24/etc) switch or possibly two - Gigabit is nice to have but more expensive, could have an 8/12 port GigE and a bigger cheaper 10/100. Just plug the 10/100 into a port on the GigE if it has a GigE upstream port or if not either the GigE switch or router directly. Position these such that you can use short (.5-2') patch cables to on the fly reassign cat5 ports that are terminated at the patch panel to individual switch ports.

This gives the option of overwiring the network connections now, once, and upgrading the switch(es) later easily, or changing what you use which port for. Put something GigE capable in later (perhaps just a small switch w/ GigE uplink for the AV rack?) and you can switch it from a 10/100 port to a precious GigE port in just seconds. Prewire extra cat5 in places you aren't using it yet, just in case you might later - then just go back down and slap a patch cable from the previous unused port on the patch panel to whichever switchport.

My friend wired his house like this, more or less, though its only something like 12 cat5 runs maybe ? But he ran extra connections in the living room etc so that if we have a LAN party we can wire into the wall there and just add switch capacity at the wiring closet end (he doesn't have a switch big enough to use all ports at once, since he doesn't need one yet, but if we LAN, any of us can bring a small switch to add in temporarily - we got 'em). Fewer spaghetti cables going everywhere, less tripping :)

And of course you can patch in POTS lines the same way, if you get a POTS patch panel sort of thing, so you can actually convert a port from phone to ethernet by just rearranges some wires at the patch panel.

/ramble

Only the 4U rack on the bottom is hinged (but it's only 4" deep)... And I am considering removing it for a deeper (12") 4U rack... Maybe I can use all 3 somehow?

Yes, I will definitely group the cables by type (cat6 velcro'd together and rg6 together)... I am planning on buying a 1U 24-port gigabit switch soon...

I am planning on running at least 1/2 the wires behind the board, and the rest on the side, depends on whether the termination point is near the bottom of the rack (in which case I will run behind) or middle or top of the rack I will just run along the side...

Here's an update on where I am now:

rack_behind_furr.jpg


First, I decided to use the space behind the plywood to run cables... After all, I went through the trouble of mounting it on furring strips, I might as well use the space back there... So, I drilled a 1/2" hole just below where the ethernet connects to the ONT (you can sort of see the hole in the pic although the cable is now in it) and fed a cat5 cable through it with a pull string to connect it to my d-link DIR-655 below.

Second, I noticed that with my d-link DIR-655 in the basement, I had weak wifi upstairs. So, I moved the dlink back upstairs for the time being, and am running the ethernet from the ONT to a port on my patch panel where the dlink is upstairs. I may actually end up leaving it like this and simply run another cable from a lan port on my dlink back to the patch panel downstairs and connect that to my switch... That uses up 2 ports but saves me buying a separate wifi access point for upstairs...

Third, I ran 3 of my ethernet cables from the top of the plywood, down behind the plywood, and out the bottom... I like this, and will do it for all cables provided I keep my patch panel more-or-less where it is now...

Finally, I got my new 4U rack that is 12" deep (same depth as the 7U rack I am using for my coax now)... I am stuck on whether I want to keep the shallower 4U I have now (which has a hinged gate on the right) or go with the deeper 4U rack and not have a hinge... I guess it all depends on where I am going to place everything...

I also need some better cable management rails than the ones I have... Thoughts?
 
UPDATE: Just purchased a Netgear JGS524 24-port gigabit router. (http://www.netgear.com/Products/Switches/UnmanagedSwitches/JGS524.aspx)
 
OK, so I was inspired tonight and decided to run the rest of the drops to the main level... I decided on the following:

1 additional drop to the den on the other side of the room of the drop I just did this week
1 drop to my office, which shares a wall with the den

There was an existing coax jack in the wall of the office which I had already removed the existing wiring from, so it was just an empty wallplate... (The original coax was crappy quality and the wire run went OUTSIDE the house and to the basement, lol)

Anyway, I decided on 4 runs to each jack:

office (standard config) - 2 cat6 and 2 RG6
2nd den jack - 3 cat6 and 1 RG6 (giving a total of 7 cat6 and 3 RG6 in the den, which is the HT room)

OK, some pics:

office_existing.jpg


First - The existing coax location as it was along with some tools for the job... NOTE: There is no miller lite required as this room (the office) is an addition that was put on the house so it has drywall instead of plaster! :eek:


office_cutout.jpg


Second - new hole cutout in existing location and 1/4" pilot hole drilled and glow rod successfully routed into basement


office_pilot.jpg


Third - View from the basement of the glow rod coming out the pilot hole... NOTE: I had to drill at an angle YET AGAIN... This time because this wall was an outside wall so it's at the very edge of the foundation and it's not a straight shot upward into the wall cavity... Gotta love older houses, nothing can just be an easy straight drill above :)


office_hole.jpg


Fourth - 1" hole drilled near the pilot hole to end up right in the middle of the wall cavity above so I can use it for both the office and den drop since they share a wall. NOTE: 1" is EXACTLY the right size for 3 RG6 and 5 Cat6 wires, it's a perfect fit!


office_carlon.jpg


Fifth - After 1" hole was drilled I mounted the Carlon low voltage single gang old work bracket (SC100RR). NOTE: The wood you see behind is the backing for the plaster and lath wall in the den.


office_drop.jpg


Sixth - Boom! All eight wires (3 RG6 and 5 Cat6) successfully pulled via glow rod from the basement...


NOTE: I have not yet cut the wall hole in the den for the 2nd drop... I'll do that tomorrow (hopefully) as it's a plaster wall and I need lots of beer for that job and it's way to late to start drinking :D
 
UPDATE: Just purchased a Netgear JGS524 24-port gigabit router. (http://www.netgear.com/Products/Switches/UnmanagedSwitches/JGS524.aspx)

They have one for a few bucks more that has 24 POE ports on it. If you're planning on doing a phone system or IP security cams in the future, that one might be a better option for you.
 
UPDATE: Just purchased a Netgear JGS524 24-port gigabit router. (http://www.netgear.com/Products/Switches/UnmanagedSwitches/JGS524.aspx)

They have one for a few bucks more that has 24 POE ports on it. If you're planning on doing a phone system or IP security cams in the future, that one might be a better option for you.

lol, too late, already ordered...

I will probably do a phone system, but FIOS phone, which I don't think requires POE... As for security cams, I plan to go wireless... Also, I was thinking that I can always add a smaller POE switch (8-port) if needed... That's the great thing about the patch panel, takes just a minute to switch from one switch to another :)
 
UPDATE: Just purchased a Netgear JGS524 24-port gigabit router.

They have one for a few bucks more that has 24 POE ports on it. If you're planning on doing a phone system or IP security cams in the future, that one might be a better option for you.

lol, too late, already ordered...

I will probably do a phone system, but FIOS phone, which I don't think requires POE... As for security cams, I plan to go wireless... Also, I was thinking that I can always add a smaller POE switch (8-port) if needed... That's the great thing about the patch panel, takes just a minute to switch from one switch to another :eek:

PoE and GigE are incompatible, though I believe you can get mixed purpose switches (some PoE some GigE). Reason being GigE uses all 8 conductors on the wire, 10/100 only uses half of them so you can use the rest for PoE.

FiOS phone service is POTS to the end user, the fancy footwork to put it over the fiber takes place in the ONT. The ONT has a pair of jacks and termination blocks for two (separate number) phone lines.
If you wanted to set up a VOIP based system (with Asterisk or such at it's heart) then you may be able to use PoE for the VOIP phones, and use one of the available POTS to VOIP bridge devices that Asterisk supports.

Using a separate and likely smaller switch for PoE is definitely the better option, since you only need PoE for things like IP cameras and possibly VOIP phones, it's wasted on normal network connections (and you lose GigE capability).

And yeah, being able to reassign on the fly is where having the patch panel comes in :)
 
PoE and GigE are incompatible, though I believe you can get mixed purpose switches (some PoE some GigE). Reason being GigE uses all 8 conductors on the wire, 10/100 only uses half of them so you can use the rest for PoE.

Not true. The GigE spec allows for power by doing some monitoring of power differential for each bit rather than on/off operation. Whether or not a cheap switch supports it, I have no idea. But my Juniper EX-4200 certainly does.

I have some PoE capable devices that have gig ports on them. I'll try plugging them into a cheap PoE gig switch the next time I'm over at my buddy's ISP. He bought a bunch of cheap ones for an IP phone system. These devices DO work on my Juniper switch, and they also link up at 1000/full.
 
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