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Need help with extended range temp/humidity sensor

GeorgieC

Member
Yes, that's the trouble, it won't power up even with the old chip replaced. That middle light never starts blinking.
 

GeorgieC

Member
That's bad. Where did you get the chip from?
My:Ro Control. And he will give me a refund if I mail it back but I'm still out 2 boards. I'm just wondering how the chip could have done this and if there's a way to reset these boards somehow.
 

GeorgieC

Member
Yeah, I just don't get it. Granted, I haven't worked on these type of boards before, but I've never had something like this happen replacing an eprom. I don't know what to make of it.

I think at this point my best bet is to replace my board with another off ebay. I'm not ready to scrap my system yet!
 

dwalt

Active Member
Don't worry about the 4.0 chip. Just make sure the new board has a chip higher than 2.8.
2.16 was around for a while and the 3. series was as well.
 

GeorgieC

Member
Well, I found an HAI board in great condition and I've got everything working again. It works with the latest PC Access and I can connect via the usb/serial adapter with no problem. So that was an interesting experience, I'm just glad to have everything working again.
 

GeorgieC

Member
GeorgieC,
300 mA seems very high for a door sensor. That sounds like the maximum current spec not the idle current. Lets say 3 doors @10mA = 30mA
2 Motions @ 10 mA = 20mA
2 System Sensor smoke detectors @ 130 mA = 260mA
4 temp sensors @ 15 mA = 60mA
Expansion board @ 35mA
Console @ 100mA
30+20+260+60+35+100= 505mA with the boards max current spec at 500mA.
So, you are right on the edge.

The Sounder has a separate 1 amp budget alone so the 480mA is fine.

As a test you could disconnect the farthest smoke, move the resistor to the first smoke and see what happens. That would reduce your current draw from 505mA to 375mA. If its a current draw issue it should work. If it still doesn't call out for the fire alarm, its something else.

Don
Hey, Don, getting back to this, what do you mean by the sounder having a separate 1 amp budget?
I also forgot that the BAT-connect was powered by the alarm panel, it doesn't have its own power supply, so that would have taken another 100mA or 300mA in alarm. So that would have put me up over the limit, right?
 

dwalt

Active Member
Hey, Don, getting back to this, what do you mean by the sounder having a separate 1 amp budget?
I also forgot that the BAT-connect was powered by the alarm panel, it doesn't have its own power supply, so that would have taken another 100mA or 300mA in alarm. So that would have put me up over the limit, right?
The panel has two current budgets... One for devices and a separate one for the sounders.

From the manual - Figure 2 - overall connections diagram:

AUXILIARY 12V, CONSOLE, AND OUTPUTS ARE INCLUDED IN THE TOTAL DEVICE LOAD, WHICH CANNOT EXCEED 0.5 AMP.
SOUNDERS CANNOT EXCEED 1 AMP.

Page 17
BELL OUTPUT
The Bell Output provides 12VDC to power bells, piezo sirens, self-contained sirens, and siren drivers (do not connect speakers to
the Bell Output). Sounders can draw up to 1 amp MAXIMUM


Yes that 100-300mA draw comes from the panels power budget for devices. That definitely puts you over the limit of power the panel can supply.
Trying to source more power than the panel can supply is going to cause problems. Hard to predict what the exact failure will be.
Don
 

GeorgieC

Member
The panel has two current budgets... One for devices and a separate one for the sounders.

From the manual - Figure 2 - overall connections diagram:

AUXILIARY 12V, CONSOLE, AND OUTPUTS ARE INCLUDED IN THE TOTAL DEVICE LOAD, WHICH CANNOT EXCEED 0.5 AMP.
SOUNDERS CANNOT EXCEED 1 AMP.

Page 17
BELL OUTPUT
The Bell Output provides 12VDC to power bells, piezo sirens, self-contained sirens, and siren drivers (do not connect speakers to
the Bell Output). Sounders can draw up to 1 amp MAXIMUM


Yes that 100-300mA draw comes from the panels power budget for devices. That definitely puts you over the limit of power the panel can supply.
Trying to source more power than the panel can supply is going to cause problems. Hard to predict what the exact failure will be.
Don
Thanks, Don. Looks like that's the first problem I need to solve.
 

GeorgieC

Member
Okay, Don, I think I am finally beginning to get how it works. Just to make sure, when you add up the current for devices, you use the normal operating current, not the max draw?

I just want to thank you, Don and Pete, for all the info. You have been so much help. It has been a lot to take in but I really appreciate you taking the time.
 

GeorgieC

Member
Start by reading these 2 docs:

You will be setting the jumper for 12 volt operation.
Things to bear in mind. There is voltage on the heat sink. It must not touch anything. You could short out any nearby electronics.
You must add a wire from the "- Output" on the new supply to a "-" connection on the OmniLT. This is to ensure the grounds on the OmniLT and the new power supply are at the same potential. I would suggest not just mounting with double sided tape. Use the 2 screw holes at the bottom of the supply (away from the heat sink) to securely anchor it. You do need to use the double sided tape to keep the circuit board from shorting against anything. This power supply will give you an additional 1 amp of current for devices.
I'd suggest you save a copy of your config file as well as print it out before you get too far in to this project. If you use the export option, you can share the config file with us if you ask for help.
Don
Do I need a 2nd battery for this to connect to?
 

dwalt

Active Member
Okay, Don, I think I am finally beginning to get how it works. Just to make sure, when you add up the current for devices, you use the normal operating current, not the max draw?

I just want to thank you, Don and Pete, for all the info. You have been so much help. It has been a lot to take in but I really appreciate you taking the time.
@GeorgieC,

No, you must always use the maximum value. Otherwise the system works fine when idle, but when an alarm goes off it doesn't have enough current to function properly.
dwalt
 
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