Request: ELK Installation Pictures

[upstatemike]

It depends on alot of factors. Those l;ook fine now, but wait till you try to put all those wires in there. If you don't plan on having covers, thats another factor, but it is near impossible to have all those expanders in there on the glides, wire it neatly and then not crush it closing a cover. It can certainly be done, but I think it is easier, neater and cleaner spreading it out more in a larger can

You can't tell from this picture (I'll post a better one once I figure out my upload issue) but there are 3 phone blocks above the cans. The expander wiring will go to these so that field wiring does not have to terminate inside the cans. I should be able to do all my terminations in both cans using just 6 25-pair cables.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Am I the only one using the standard Elk cans and mounting hardware?

Nope, I used the standard can for my friend's install. Below is a pic when the work was in progress.

I looped the wire so the connections could be removed if needed. Yes, the larger can would have been nicer. Also, if I was going to do this install again, I wouldn't have used one conduit from the attic to the Elk (split it up in multiple ones instead).

 

[Mike P]

Here is my work in progress Almost at so far almost 66 zones, A little UPB, A little sprinkler, and a few outputs for pool and backyard lighting, Ways to go still.

 

[Mike P]

Here is another

 

[Mike P]

And another

 

[fleetz]

Well since everyone else is showing off here is my M1. Not fully complete yet, but its only missing expanders.

I use slotted duct. All the boards are on standoff's. Custom cable from the M1 to the DO board in the second panel.
The board under the Ethernet interface is a C-Bus interface. The cable to it is a custom made cable as well (half of it anyway).

In the first panel at the bottom right are terminal strips to power the PIR's. I dont like putting multiple calbes in the one terminal so I created a terminal strip with weidmuller terminals (double decker terminals) to distribute the power.

There are 6 boards in total (allowed for) around the house and shed. NO data bus hub used - you dont need one if you design correctly.

The panels are flush mount in the wall. The exposed studs you can see are the cable zoe in the wall. A piece of 9mm thick mdf screw over the top to hide it all away

Mick

Hi Mick,

Real neat install! About 5 weeks out now from installing mine, will throw a few pix up then. Modified all my C-Bus cans so each output units has a protected neutral and having a sepearate RCBO on each output unit.

Cheers,

Fleetz

 

[znelbok]

Real neat install! About 5 weeks out now from installing mine, will throw a few pix up then. Modified all my C-Bus cans so each output units has a protected neutral and having a sepearate RCBO on each output unit.

Cheers,

Fleetz

Hi Fleetz

Unless there are local regulations requiring it, there is no advantage to providing protection on the output of the relays and dimmers. The protection wont prevent damage to the triacs either on the dimmers in the event of a short circuit.

This has been discussed a lot on the c-bus forums and the consensus is that it is just a money spending exercise (even though it is covered in the manual).

It does allow isolation of an individual light(s) without the need to isolate the whole dimmer/relay, but in a home situation that is not really an issue. For an office I would contemplate isolation of each channel so others were not disrupted by the outage.

Dont get me wrong, There is nothing wrong with doing it, just that there is little benefit to doing it.

Mick

PS - you will love having c-bus installed. It is a really strong robust system

 

[Mike P]

Sorry for the blurry pic's, Phone camera. And please don't mind the typo...


Mike

 

[fleetz]

Real neat install! About 5 weeks out now from installing mine, will throw a few pix up then. Modified all my C-Bus cans so each output units has a protected neutral and having a sepearate RCBO on each output unit.

Cheers,

Fleetz

Hi Fleetz

Unless there are local regulations requiring it, there is no advantage to providing protection on the output of the relays and dimmers. The protection wont prevent damage to the triacs either on the dimmers in the event of a short circuit.

This has been discussed a lot on the c-bus forums and the consensus is that it is just a money spending exercise (even though it is covered in the manual).

It does allow isolation of an individual light(s) without the need to isolate the whole dimmer/relay, but in a home situation that is not really an issue. For an office I would contemplate isolation of each channel so others were not disrupted by the outage.

Dont get me wrong, There is nothing wrong with doing it, just that there is little benefit to doing it.

Mick

PS - you will love having c-bus installed. It is a really strong robust system

Hi Mick,

Sorry I might not have explained myself properly. I am refering to having protected neutrals for each output unit not each output. The protected neutral is to enable the RCBO assigned to the output unit (relay or dimmer) to isolate that output unit in the event of any earth leakage on any output connected to that output unit. The thought of having 80 loads with a single RCD and then trying to find which one is the culprit did my head in. So I now have 7 RCBO's for 7 odd output units.

I also have around 70 Rittal lever style disconnect fusable knife switches. These are on each load and whilst I understand that these will not protect each output is gives me an easy way of connecting the the loads and an easy way of isolating any load. Also an easy way of reconfiguring the loads as they are all at the top of the cans. I selected the version that should a fuse go it also illumiated a neon so I can see at a glance which one has gone.

I have probably have over engineered this installation but then it is my paradise home in FNQ!

Ping some photos soon.

Regards,

Fleetz

 

[znelbok]

Fleetz

That makes more sense - actually you have to do it that way under the new AS3000 wiring rules. The new rules state that you can only have a max of tree circuits protected by one RCD. I wonder how you class 8 home run lights to a dimmer? (is that wight circuits or one)

What you are doing is the best solution re the protection

I too toyed with the idea of using fuse/knife terminals (with LED's for blown fuse indication) to allow termination of each light. Also makes it easy if you are joining two or more lights together that you may want to split later on - I could not afford the space or the money for the extra cabinets to mount everything. If I was doing it again I might be very temped to go down that path.

Mick

Hi Mick,

Sorry I might not have explained myself properly. I am refering to having protected neutrals for each output unit not each output. The protected neutral is to enable the RCBO assigned to the output unit (relay or dimmer) to isolate that output unit in the event of any earth leakage on any output connected to that output unit. The thought of having 80 loads with a single RCD and then trying to find which one is the culprit did my head in. So I now have 7 RCBO's for 7 odd output units.

I also have around 70 Rittal lever style disconnect fusable knife switches. These are on each load and whilst I understand that these will not protect each output is gives me an easy way of connecting the the loads and an easy way of isolating any load. Also an easy way of reconfiguring the loads as they are all at the top of the cans. I selected the version that should a fuse go it also illumiated a neon so I can see at a glance which one has gone.

I have probably have over engineered this installation but then it is my paradise home in FNQ!

Ping some photos soon.

Regards,

Fleetz

 

[fleetz]

Fleetz

That makes more sense - actually you have to do it that way under the new AS3000 wiring rules. The new rules state that you can only have a max of tree circuits protected by one RCD. I wonder how you class 8 home run lights to a dimmer? (is that wight circuits or one)

What you are doing is the best solution re the protection

I too toyed with the idea of using fuse/knife terminals (with LED's for blown fuse indication) to allow termination of each light. Also makes it easy if you are joining two or more lights together that you may want to split later on - I could not afford the space or the money for the extra cabinets to mount everything. If I was doing it again I might be very temped to go down that path.

Mick

Hi Mick,

Sorry I might not have explained myself properly. I am refering to having protected neutrals for each output unit not each output. The protected neutral is to enable the RCBO assigned to the output unit (relay or dimmer) to isolate that output unit in the event of any earth leakage on any output connected to that output unit. The thought of having 80 loads with a single RCD and then trying to find which one is the culprit did my head in. So I now have 7 RCBO's for 7 odd output units.

I also have around 70 Rittal lever style disconnect fusable knife switches. These are on each load and whilst I understand that these will not protect each output is gives me an easy way of connecting the the loads and an easy way of isolating any load. Also an easy way of reconfiguring the loads as they are all at the top of the cans. I selected the version that should a fuse go it also illumiated a neon so I can see at a glance which one has gone.

I have probably have over engineered this installation but then it is my paradise home in FNQ! :blink:

Ping some photos soon.

Regards,

Fleetz

Hi Mick,

Interesting question on the 8 home runs. It will be a nightmare if you had to effectively have 3 RCD's per 8ch dimmer. I would have thought a RCD per output unit would be more than suffice. If the new AS3000 rules take it to the letter then the cost of installations will be considerably more expensive.

Regards,

Fleetz

 

[ctay]

Here is what I am working on... We wired every door and window in the house as well as H2O sensors at every water source so we have quite a few zones. 6 input expanders, 1 output expander, serial for thermostat and for the Centralite Litejet, ethernet adapter and 2 data bus hubs (only 1 in in this picture). I found that I couldn't get everything organized where I wanted it in the Leviton enclosure even if I drilled holes so I mounted a 3/8 inch piece of white OSB to the back of the box then screwed standoffs to that exactly where I wanted the cards. I have 2 sets of three input cards stacked on each other and the cover fits over it just fine.

The power can is fairly empty just now but it will have 2 PD9's for power to the motions and a P412 under this to power them as well as the Elk water shutoff valve.

This is the messy closet I'm working in... Needless to say my wife requires the door to be shut... :blink:

 

[bwally]

these are really nice looking cans.
beautiful wiring job in them too!

who is the manufacturer of those cans? are those levitons?

what i really like is the wire management modules on the top and sides.

 

[ph0n33z]

WARNING.......The pictures you are about to see may cause dizziness, nausea, headache, back pain, diarrhea, and heart attack.......WARNING

Well, I was debating on whether or not to post these picture of "The Batcave". Our new construction was finished over a year ago, but the wiring organization has sadly been neglected. Looking at everyone else's installs has inspired me........and caused me great shame.

Without further adeu, I give you..........*sighs........the batcave.


The entrance to the Batcave.....where the door only opens that wide due to the floor transition moulding..

Box of X10/UPB modules, linux computer yet to be hooked up, box of miscellaneous house plans, parts, tools, and junk. Don't you just love the fancy chair!

This is where all of the wiring for the entire house spills out (literally). Old monitor hooked up to the Home Automation server pc on a walmart special bookshelf.

ELK Can

Top to bottom:

On-Q Intercom Module
ELK M1 Gold
16-Zone Expander
Battery

Clockwise:

Battery
(2) M1DBH
(2) XSP
M1RB
Terminal strip for motion sensor power
(3) 16-Zone expanders

W800RF Receiver

Phone/Network

Home Automation PC (obviously built by me) without a cover. None of that wiring is hooked up, thus the reason for the mess. Also, I don't have a mouse hooked up to this pc as my old one melted (no joke.) So working with a computer with only a keyboard has been very interesting. Just out of sight is my 6-channel amp for whole-house audio, which gets 3 sources from a sound blaster live card running Kx drivers.

 

[ckindt]

Not and ELK, but I couldn't resist any longer.
The close up is the DVR pc.