running wires to the headend
- Thread starter v1rtu0s1ty
- Start date
Steve
Senior Member
Your drawing would be more correct if you had the blue cat5 cable going from the hub to the blue terminal block on the right side of the XIN. Thats where the bus goes. The green block is for your 16 contacts. You can use *either* hub - it is up to you and they both have pros and cons. If you use the RJ45 one (M1DBH) you will have to homerun a cable from each expander to the hub. If you use the DBHR retrofit hub you can daisy chain the expanders together and have 1 run to the hub. The retrofit hub splits the M1 bus into 4 separate manageable branches (separate busses per se). The RJ45 hub simply chains the devices together on 1 branch. They both work fine so its really personal choice which you want to use.
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Ah, didn't think you were. We are all learning stuff here (I learned something about running 18 g wire as well).rfdesq said:
Honestly the reason I ran 22/4 to my keypads is I was used to my old Caddx system and that's what it used. Since I saw that the Elk keypads only used four conductors I just assumed that I would just run that. Never thought of running Cat5e at the time.
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
It's not that I'm afraid of crimping RJ45, it's because, I had an impression that M1XIN expander cannot be connected to M1DBH. I previously worked with Alcatel Telecommunications for more than 2 years, and as part of my job aside from setting up Cisco routers/switches and networks, I also crimped network cables.Digger said:
Right now, I'm going to be using M1DBH databus and M1XIN 16 zone expander board.
I've learned a lot today. Thanks guys for sharing all the tips you have. Thank you very much to rfdesq too!
Glad you feel that way. Even after 30+ years of installing alarms, I'm still learning. With the M1, it a far cry from my first home brew alarm install. I'm getting better at putting on RJ45 connectors. Since I discovered which Cat 6 wire to use with the Platinum EZRJ45 connectors my crimp time is down to about three minutes. Someone mentioned about not being able to use the Data Bus Hub to plug in the new touch screen keypad. I need this information for an install I am doing now and I haven't been able to find the documentation for the new keypad. Could someone post the information here? Thanks.BraveSirRobbin said:
toymaster458
Active Member
There is no new Touch Screen Keypad. There is a New Touch Screen and a New Keypad coming out.rfdesq said:
The Touch Screen (TS07) can connect in two different ways:
1) If only a single Touch Screen is used in an installation it hooks up to the main serial port of the M1
2) If multiple Touch Screens are used it requires the M1 to have a M1XEP installed and connected to the Home network. Then you use the Ethernet port on the Touch Screens to connect to the home network. The Touchscreens also get their power from POE so you may want to use a POE switch for the home network.
The Keypads (KP2) connect the same way the old ones do.
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
Glad you guys mentioned touch screens. If I want to change my keypads in the future, is the existing CAT5E run enough or do I need another type of wire? solid or stranded?toymaster458 said:
toymaster458
Active Member
leave the standard keypads at the entry ways and add other touch screens in the main areas of the house.
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
For a touch screen, what wires are needed, is it a cat5e and a 18/2 stranded?toymaster458 said:
toymaster458
Active Member
If it was me I would run 2 Cat5e and a 2 18/2.
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
Ok guys, I've got a new wiring diagram. I'm using 22/12 wires now. I like the approach that rfdesq taught me.
Here it is, http://restricted.dyndns.org/firstfloorsecuritydiagram.html
Any comments are absolutely welcome.
Thanks,
Ronneil
Here it is, http://restricted.dyndns.org/firstfloorsecuritydiagram.html
Any comments are absolutely welcome.
Thanks,
Ronneil
If you use 22/12 then you need 3 of those to your second floor if you put the zone expander in the same can as the M1 (leaving no room for future expansion if I am correct, although some installers share the commons on zones freeing up a few conductors). Now with the expense of the 22/12 you are very close to breaking even or maybe more expensive then putting the expander on the second floor where you could just parallel a second expander in the future if you want to add more zones. You also still need to run more wire for smoke detector power, sirens/speakers, keypads, touchscreens etc.
Also your main level smoke still needs to connect to the zone on the panel or expander.
Again there is more than one correct way of doing this and its up to you which method you want to use.
My OPINION is that it would be easier in the long run to have the expanders on each level. Only my OPINION.
Also your main level smoke still needs to connect to the zone on the panel or expander.
Again there is more than one correct way of doing this and its up to you which method you want to use.
My OPINION is that it would be easier in the long run to have the expanders on each level. Only my OPINION.
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
Here is the second floor diagram.
http://restricted.dyndns.org/secondfloorsecuritydiagram.html
Can sirens be connected to M1XIN boards? If so, I can reroute the wire to just go to the central 22/12.
http://restricted.dyndns.org/secondfloorsecuritydiagram.html
Can sirens be connected to M1XIN boards? If so, I can reroute the wire to just go to the central 22/12.
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
I will have to be connecting the smoke detectors in series. I might just get a 18/2 smoke detectors as what ELK manual recommends. That means, I'll be able to free up 5 zones to the M1XIN(situated in the basement). It's ok for me not to know which smoke tripped. I would rather go out the house and find out later when everything is OK. For the expander, it will be situated near the M1. This will allow me for easier troubleshooting.Digger said:
I think I only need 200-250 ft. I found a central location both in 1st and 2nd floor. So 9ft(1st/F) plus another 9ft(2nd floor) plus 20ft going to the headend totals 38 ft. Assuming 40ft times 6 runs equals 240 ft. However, I still don't know how much those 22/12 cost.
I'm going to contact tseelectronics either today or tomorrow.Yep, I have the new wiring on the previous post for second floor. So am I correct that CO can be terminated to the M1XIN?
My 2nd/F smoke sensors will be in series instead and connected to the 1st/F smoke sensor which will be terminated to zone 16 in M1.
Are my new diagrams a not good idea? Is my earlier route(having expander in each floor) a better approach than this new one? This was an easier route as explained to me by rfdesq. I really got confused on smoke sensors on 2nd floor that have another separate 18/4. I didn't have an answer as to how many 18/4 wires runs I needed. If I saw a diagram of how smoke detectors is connected to M1XIN plus the separate 18/4 for SAUX, it would have been easier for me to grasp.
Ok.
If you use 2 wire smokes they connect to Zone 16 of the M1. Power is derived from zone 16 (remember to set the jumper underneath zone 16 to 2 wire smoke). They include an 820 ohm resistor for use on this zone if you use 2 wire smokes.
The M1 was evaluated for use with up to 20 smoke detectors on zone 16 so you are all set there.
Rememeber to label all of your wiring clearly since you will be running a ton of wire doing home runs on everything.
The M1 was evaluated for use with up to 20 smoke detectors on zone 16 so you are all set there.
Rememeber to label all of your wiring clearly since you will be running a ton of wire doing home runs on everything.
