ELK devices arriving today at 3pm

[v1rtu0s1ty]

for the  time offest problem: ok, is your timezone correct under automation, sunrise/sunset?

Cool. I selected Central and also chose Set time from PC. That fixed it.

now back to phone problem..... do you get dial tone when you lift receiver?  is the rj jack at the service enterance (or the phone you are trying with on the house side of the M1?)


phone co ----- RJ jack -----M1-----(back to) RJ jack------Phones

Yes, I get a dial a dialtone. As an additional info, if I remove it M1 from the jack, keypad says, Phone Fault.

 

[rfdesq]

I clicked on Globals in RP and I see 2 in Telephone control. And also, I couldn't find the place to correct the time. My time in the display is an hour advance.

Let me know if you get the local telephone control to work consistently. I only get it to work about 10% of the time. When you are connected to the control with RP there should be an option to send the computer time to the control.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

I clicked on Globals in RP and I see 2 in Telephone control. And also, I couldn't find the place to correct the time. My time in the display is an hour advance.

Let me know if you get the local telephone control to work consistently. I only get it to work about 10% of the time. When you are connected to the control with RP there should be an option to send the computer time to the control.

Yep, I got the time fixed using mustang's steps. However, the telephone still doesn't work when I press ****.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Hi folks, new question about M1 and bosch motion sensor

I'm having a hard time understanding the instruction that came with the bosch manual. I have a screenshot below of the inside of the motion sensor. I have a 22/4 wire that I can use to connect the motion sensor to the M1. However, which terminals on the bosch goes to which terminals on the M1? Is it ok to connect this motion sensor in Z1? Right now, I have a 2200 ohm on Z1 and neg, when I connect the motion sensor, do I still have to introduce the 2200 ohm again? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[rfdesq]

What model number PIR do you have? I'm trying to pull the manual now. Remember the EOL goes to the farthest position away from the panel, i.e. right inside the PIR.

Edit:

Look on Page 9 of the installation manual, there is a nice pictorial of the optional four state zone wiring.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

What model number PIR do you have? I'm trying to pull the manual now. Remember the EOL goes to the farthest position away from the panel, i.e. right inside the PIR.

Edit:

Look on Page 9 of the installation manual, there is a nice pictorial of the optional four state zone wiring.

It says here, Blue Line P1, ISM-BLP1-P

 

[rfdesq]

What model number PIR do you have? I'm trying to pull the manual now. Remember the EOL goes to the farthest position away from the panel, i.e. right inside the PIR.

Edit:

Look on Page 9 of the installation manual, there is a nice pictorial of the optional four state zone wiring.

Edit:

I found the manual for your PIR. The T's are the NC tamper circuit, the NC's are the normally closed alarm circuit, and the DA if for an optional digital enhancement. The + and - are for your voltage with the - being common with the Neg on the M1 panel.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Look on Page 9 of the installation manual, there is a nice pictorial of the optional four state zone wiring.

Hi Robert, I saw the diagram but I got lost as to how I should wire it. :unsure:

EDIT: Do I really need 4 conductors?

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

I'm very sorry folks, I'm still having a hard time. Where does the left T terminal on the bosch connect to the M1? What about the right T terminal? Am I correct that the + will connect to the Z1 and the - will connect to the neg? What about the 2 NC's, where is left NC need to be connected. What about the 2200 ohm, which terminals should I put it in on the PIR?

Thanks.

 

[Steve]

+ on PIR to +Vaux
- on PIR to NEG
One NC on PIR to Zone on M1
One NC on PIR to that zones common

It hooks up just like any other contact (the NC terminals) PLUS it needs power, the + and -.

Stacy, those training DVD's are not part of the Elk system and do not come with any of the sku's. Automated Outlet includes them as a courtesy value add with a purchase of an M1. If you do not have them you can simply view them on the site I linked above.

 

[rfdesq]

EDIT: Do I really need 4 conductors?

You should only need three wires. One for a common which means both your negative voltage or ground and your negative zone input. One wire for the + side of the voltage. And one wire for the other side of the zone input. Make any sense?

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

+ on PIR to +Vaux
- on PIR to NEG
One NC on PIR to Zone on M1
One NC on PIR to that zones common

It hooks up just like any other contact (the NC terminals) PLUS it needs power, the + and -.

Stacy, those training DVD's are not part of the Elk system and do not come with any of the sku's. Automated Outlet includes them as a courtesy value add with a purchase of an M1. If you do not have them you can simply view them on the site I linked above.

Where can I find the COMMON? Are you saying that COMMON can also be the Z1 terminal? What about the 2200 ohms, where do I insert it?

EDIT: or are you saying the common Neg like for Z1 and Z2?

 

[Steve]

I'm very sorry folks, I'm still having a hard time. Where does the left T terminal on the bosch connect to the M1? What about the right T terminal? Am I correct that the + will connect to the Z1 and the - will connect to the neg? What about the 2 NC's, where is left NC need to be connected. What about the 2200 ohm, which terminals should I put it in on the PIR?

Thanks.

I would take a deep breath and REALLY read slowly thru the manual. I know its boring to RTFM but I truly think it will enlighten you alot. It sounds like you are just rushing to get everything hooked up without understanding the basics first. If you just slow down a bit and get the basics, all the rest of this will be easy. I mean this in a truly helpful manner.

In any case, you do not use the T's unless you want to use an additional zone as a tamper zone.

A PIR is simple in concept. It works just like any other contact sensor that opens the circuit when motion is detected. The only difference is that is requires separate power instead of the normal 12V zone voltage.

So, again, the NC terminals go to any zone on the M1. It does not matter which zone and it really does not matter which contact, either the zone or common, it is not polarity sensitive like your power is. So either NC to a zone and the other NC to the common for that zone. As a tip, ALL commons on the M1 are really the same, so technically you yould hook all commons to the same place (not to confuse, but as info - still 'neater' and easier to just use each zones common).

In addition the PIR, like a glassgreak requires power. This is normally driven off of the VAUX on the M1. So the + on the PIR goes to a +VAUX on the M1 and the - on the PIR goes to the NEG on the M1 (under the +VAUX).

If you set the zone in RP as EOL then the 2.2K EOL goes in the PIR - can put it across the NC terminals. Most people do not bother with the EOL and simply leave it out and configure the zone for Normally Closed in RP.

 

[rfdesq]

Neil:

Let me try to explain the wiring of the optional four zone with your Bosch PIR. Refer to the picture you posted above. Let's use Zone 1 on the M1 for example. A wire from the Zone 1 input goes to the far right "T" or tamper input. The far left "T" or tamper terminal gets a 2.2K resistor attached. The other end of the resistor goes to the left hand "NC" terminal. Another 2.2K resistor goes from the left hand "NC" terminal to the right hand "NC" terminal. The right hand "NC" terminal gets a wire that goes back to Zone 1 neg. Have I completely lost you?

 

[Steve]

Neil:

Let me try to explain the wiring of the optional four zone with your Bosch PIR. Refer to the picture you posted above. Let's use Zone 1 on the M1 for example. A wire from the Zone 1 input goes to the far right "T" or tamper input. The far left "T" or tamper terminal gets a 2.2K resistor attached. The other end of the resistor goes to the left hand "NC" terminal. Another 2.2K resistor goes from the left hand "NC" terminal to the right hand "NC" terminal. The right hand "NC" terminal gets a wire that goes back to Zone 1 neg. Have I completely lost you?

Yeah, I guess that will work for the tamper too :unsure: I personally do not even use it. If someone is good enough to get to the PIR and open it up before it senses them, I have a more serious problem!