OmniPro / Eero offline

abbachia

Member
Going nuts here and hope the wizards of the forums have some insight..

Was running asus router for a while and among many other problems, i had spotty connectivity with the Omni Panel that primarily was a problem working in PC Access when uploading changes to the panel. I upgraded to EERO mesh router, which solved for all of my wifi issues and mostly solved for my connectivity issues with Omni, meaning that for Home Assistant and Snaplink it was spot on connections, and when uploading files from withing PC Access, i still sometimes lost connectivity but mostly it was fine.

Recently, my HA and Snaplink connectivity got spotty and finally gave out completely. My panel is showing "Offline" from within the router and there is nothing i can do to get it back on-line. Sometimes resetting the router will bring it back for a minute or two and then go offline...the Eero app also tells me "last time online" and from that data point it seems that it comes back online periodically for a minute or two now and then...

Question: Is this a hardware issues i.e. the panel connection port (i already swapped patch cords to rule that out) or something else on the panel is degrading or is this a software issue meaning the the dinosaur tech that the panel is based on can't play nice with current wifi routers... Difference is a) if its a software issue is there a fix and b) if it a hardware issue i can buy a new board and do an even swap...

Otherwise my only option is to swap out to and Elk panel which means i need to start messing with keypads already installed all over my house (the elk pads don't match the dimensions of the HAI...royal pain in the .......)
 
What does a "ping -t <omnipro ip address>" show from the pc running PC access?
Do both network leds flash?
 
What does a "ping -t <omnipro ip address>" show from the pc running PC access?
Do both network leds flash?
Ping results below.. if you are referring to network LED's on switch then no, only orange not orange and green, are there network LED's on the board?

Pinging 192.168.4.48 with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 192.168.4.42: Destination host unreachable.
Request timed out.
Reply from 192.168.4.48: bytes=32 time=15ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.4.48: bytes=32 time=14ms TTL=64
Request timed out.
Request timed out.
Reply from 192.168.4.48: bytes=32 time=2ms TTL=64
Request timed out.
Reply from 192.168.4.48: bytes=32 time=2ms TTL=64
Request timed out.
Request timed out.
Reply from 192.168.4.48: bytes=32 time=23ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.4.48: bytes=32 time=4ms TTL=64
Request timed out.
Request timed out.
Request timed out.
Reply from 192.168.4.48: bytes=32 time=22ms TTL=64
Request timed out.
Reply from 192.168.4.48: bytes=32 time=3ms TTL=64

Ping statistics for 192.168.4.48:
Packets: Sent = 19, Received = 9, Lost = 10 (52% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 2ms, Maximum = 23ms, Average = 10ms
 
Yes there are two network leds next to the network connector at the top center of the Omni board.
Definite hardware issue. Is the Omni data cable plugged directly into the router of a switch? If its a switch change ports or try a different switch.
Try different ports on the router if there is no switch.
 
will check board LEDs...plugged into switch...router is way too far away...I'll try different ports as well...ty...

looking at used boards on ebay...what am i looking for for the easiest swap...are all versions of the board interchangeable?
 
If you want to use PC Access to move your configs from the current board to the new board, they must be the same model.
Otherwise OmniLTe, Omni2e and OmniPro II all have network ports but differ in capability (number of zones, number of consoles, number of tstats, etc). What model do you have? On ebay, most of the boards are OmniPro II. The best board HAI made.
 
OP II...and eying an OP II on ebay...just wasn't sure if there are different versions of OP II that are incompatible
 
There are 3 serial port and 5 serial port versions. They are not incompatible. Both versions can run the last release firmware 4.0b.
The 5 serial port versions can be software upgraded using PC Access. The 3 serial port versions have to have the eprom replaced to upgrade software versions. If you buy on ebay, see if the seller has the installer code. If you don't get the installer code, you will need an eprom programmer to read the eeprom and figure out the installer code. Leviton used to reset the installer code but they stopped doing that last January.

The installer code is stored at location 0x2859 (First 2 digits) and 0x285A (Last 2 digits) in EEPROM. It is a socketed 28c256 that can easily be read with any decent EPROM programmer.
 
Could this be another example of the OP needing to be isolated on its own network? First thing I'd try is a new cable (they can go bad), then focus on isolating the OPII. Good chance this is yet another occurrence of the OPII not being able to handle modern network traffic.
 
There are 3 serial port and 5 serial port versions. They are not incompatible. Both versions can run the last release firmware 4.0b.
The 5 serial port versions can be software upgraded using PC Access. The 3 serial port versions have to have the eprom replaced to upgrade software versions. If you buy on ebay, see if the seller has the installer code. If you don't get the installer code, you will need an eprom programmer to read the eeprom and figure out the installer code. Leviton used to reset the installer code but they stopped doing that last January.

Could this be another example of the OP needing to be isolated on its own network? First thing I'd try is a new cable (they can go bad), then focus on isolating the OPII. Good chance this is yet another occurrence of the OPII not being able to handle modern network tra
Yes there are two network leds next to the network connector at the top center of the Omni board.
Definite hardware issue. Is the Omni data cable plugged directly into the router of a switch? If its a switch change ports or try a different switch.
Try different ports on the router if there is no switch.
 
If the OP is comfortable configuring his laptop, he can plug the data port from his PC directly to the Omni. He will need to set the ip address from his laptop to be on the same subnet as the Omni. Then do a ping -t and see if the performance improves... This will eliminate the house network.
 
There are two LEDs between the serial ports left one is steady on / right one is blinking

but.....

my setup is that i have my router out in the middle of my basement (out in the middle of the house for better coverage) and all my computer equipment is in the corner where my omni is installed
My cable modem is also in that corner, so i have a long network cable going from modem to router and then another from router back to the same spot where it goes into a switch that feeds blue iris server and cameras, synology NAS, omni panel, raspberry pi running home assistant etc..

i unplugged the switch and fed that cable from the router directly into the Omni panel and ...voila! its online responding to snaplink (can't test home assistant because its on the switch that is dead at this point of the experiment)...

problem is that Eero routers only have two ports and both are used (one to bring signal in from router and one to bring it back to the switch)...

I really need this (netgear) switch to play nice with the OP II (like it did for the past 15 months no idea what changed)...

I also noticed that my panel is running an old firmware (maybe 2. something)...any reason to think that updating the firmware will help and is that even still an option now that they don't support the system anymore?
 
The first version of firmware to support the remote access apps on iPhone and Android was 3 something. I think around 3.4, will have to look that up. Some older Netgear switches had bad Chinese caps in them and over time they began to have strange intermittent problems. It might be worth it to get a new switch. Pete and I have had good luck with TP-Link managed switches TL-SG108E at around $30. HAI made steady improvements with every release of firmware. Always a good idea to get the last released bug fixes. I'd recommend getting 3.16 or 4.01b. If you ask nicely on the board someone may be willing to burn one for you. You must be careful replacing the chip. Its easy to bend/break pins if you are not experienced.
 
going to try a different switch..see how that goes...chip replacement is over my head...thought that my board (5 port) allows for firmware upgrade via PC Access...
 
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